Hello! We had a crack in the hallway next to the front door that I started tapping so I could fill it in and plaster over it. Unfortunately, large parts of the interior wall next to the door frame came loose. The holes are about 10-12 cm deep at the deepest, and the frame screws with plugs are exposed, almost uncovered. I will need to knock down a larger area than what is visible in the photo as it sounds hollow when you tap next to the crack. I guess the total area will be 1-2 square meters with varying depths from 1-12 cm.

I can't get hold of a mason and now need to fix it myself. How should I proceed to fill in all the empty space and create stability in the wall next to the frame? What should I use for plaster/mortar on top afterward? All basic and advanced tips are welcome!

The house is a functional style house built in 1954.

Thank you in advance!
Damaged interior wall next to a wooden door frame, showing exposed blocks and a plug socket. Large gaps need filling and plastering.
 
Do you really mean 12 centimeters?
 
Gypsum plaster can work if it is dry, otherwise husfix.
 
Yes, it is a rough estimate. I am not home so I can measure, but the crack is definitely at least 8 cm deep, probably closer to 10-12 cm as I wrote. Large pieces (about the size of a large fist) have fallen where it is deepest. You can see daylight from inside the hallway if you look in line with the door frame in the crack.
 
Will you have it polished after you've fixed it?

The reason it cracked is due to slamming the front door. Consider installing a door brake after you've fixed it to prevent further damage.
 
anders07 said:
Gypsum plaster can work if it's dry, otherwise use husfix.
I've tried husfix once. Completely hopeless to spread. Filling a hole, yes, but not for plastering. Instead, I used Finja's handspackel grov, a much better product.

For this, however, I think a traditional plaster is more suitable.
 
It likely cracked due to door slams, so I'm considering the door stopper idea. Additionally, it should be broadly plastered on the outside.

Now that I've received input, I'm leaning towards the following:

Foam sealant next to the frame to fill the narrowest and hard-to-reach cracks. Then, house fix in the biggest holes. After that, a layer of coarse filler and finally fine filler. Does that sound like an okay plan?
 
It sounds complicated and tough. Use gypsum plaster, but to avoid having to build up the entire thickness with plaster, buy a lightweight concrete block as a filler piece. Pre-water and install the filler piece one day and then plaster the rest the next day. On the gypsum plaster, you can then fill as usual before painting.
 
Plaster when you have to brick up the door again? Sounds like a completely rotten idea.
 
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Brick up the door? It looks like there is 60-80 cm exposed frame possibly. Gypsum plaster will work every time here, and adhesion to the lightweight concrete will be good where, as a layperson, it might be difficult to achieve with a cement-based plaster.

TS might need some advice on how the frame screws should be reattached, possibly as a supplement.
 
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Of course, not to brick up the door but the frame fastenings. Or rather create something to have new frame fastenings in as you say.
 
Reviving this thread, as I haven't found much else here.

You buy blocks, about 70x400x700mm for around 70 kr, cut them so the pieces fit, and use tile adhesive.

If there are pipes etc. in the wall, you have to pour/fill around them - gypsum-based fillers for dry areas, lime/cement for wet areas. Lime/plaster/repair for layers < 20-30mm, and cement for thicker layers. (Note: it's important to vacuum, pre-wet, and prime the surface extra well before repairing).

Found most of it here, but talked to building supply stores/Beijer Concrete and Kiilto:

https://gds.se/material/lattbetong/sa-anvander-du-lattbetong

(This mentions special fix, but no more details, according to Beijer it's simply just adhesive).

Another good comment:

https://www.xella.se/se/docs/279279_Rep_Revner_SE.pdf
 
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