Building Materials and Construction Technology
densomkanvet: Got rid of what I wanted over the weekend! It ended up being a temporary solution on the floor until we lay the new floor.
hennyli: [citat] Thank you so much for a quick and clear answer!
Kontoristen7: I built a low wall with concrete stone and stone adhesive, super easy to use, a bit like spraying foam but not as expanding. Used something like this: https://stenbolaget.se/products/stenlim-pu-stonegrip-598-750ml Everything loose must be removed and it should be clean.
Kallebo: We have a similar stand that is completely freestanding. If many people swing at the same time, it swings well here too. We added diagonal braces that stabilize the upper part against the posts. That means a beam that goes across between the posts and then diagonal braces between the legs and this beam. Did wonders for our stand even though it doesn't become completely rigid. They don't take up
Joelbitar13: Preferably 6%, but if you have no obstacles (chimney, vents, skylights, etc.) and can have full lengths of sheet metal, a slope of 4% works.
KnockOnWood: [citat] Thanks! It was about 180*17 mm. I don't remember exactly, and the house is sold now. This is what it said on the packages: [bild] The hard wax oil is easy to apply, but maybe a bit tricky to get completely even if you're not a painting pro. But so what, after two weeks you become blind to it :cool: Unfortunately, we have sold and moved, but often long to go back!
AG A: [citat] If I worked with asbestos remediation, I would also say something similar. If people become afraid of a building material on their house, they want to replace it. Which then leads to more work. I therefore think you need another source for your claim.
z_bumbi: Pelicase or look up toolboxes from another manufacturer. Opt for a generous size so protective equipment and accessories fit.
Meatmanager: Hi. I have planned to add insulation to my cabin. I had a moisture expert visit, who assured me there should be no issues, but we didn't get into details about the construction other than 50cm of foam board and 12mm plywood work well on walls and roof. I'm considering the existing interior wall, which today consists of something like a masonite board, not particularly stiff and about a mm thick,
fribygg: You should probably treat with tar or roslagsmahogny for increased longevity.
Düsseldorff: Mounting glue and nail gun. Then you need to fill the nail holes before painting. It will still gap a bit against the wall in some places, but if you seal it with soft caulk, it won't be visible after painting.
ulrikf: I am planning to build a new soundproof wall between two rooms. There is continuous strapping between the rooms in both the ceiling and sloped ceiling. The ceiling construction is: Mineral wool (170 mm in sloped ceiling, 315 mm in ceiling) Vapor barrier Strapping 28x75 Ceiling gypsum 9 mm (with unfilled v-joint) I plan to slit the ceiling gypsum at the new wall, i.e., between the edge profiles'
NatBat: Hello I am planning to fill in a doorway in a 1950s apartment with a masonry wall. I read that for masonry walls, wood studs with drywall are not recommended, but rather rebar mesh and foam are suggested. I'm curious as to why drywall is not recommended for a doorway with a masonry wall? Is it due to different movements in the materials or something like that? Furthermore, I am looking for tips
torptorp: Sure, I might be underestimating the job, but I think that if it needed to be changed, the house supplier might prefer to paint over it and move on. Whereas I would rather have it fixed.
Tacobob: Let's go with that! I was wondering if there's a way it's "usually" done.
useless: If the ceiling is high enough, you can cross-brace. But it might be enough to remove/replace some of the boards that are in the way.
newbee: There is a risk of mold and moisture. How big? Hard to say. I imagine it also depends on soil conditions, the base layer under the slab, vegetation around the house, drainage, etc., etc. It's likely that there's cellplast directly on the concrete with chipboard as the base for the floor. Not the worst type of floating floor. The base plate is most likely not treated with cuprinol since it was
Düsseldorff: [citat] But what the heck, that's what I wrote in post two.
Henrik Vamos: I am having issues with the plaster coming off as shown in the picture. We plastered last year and now it's starting to come off again, especially the corners. Anyone have any tips for the next plastering? :)
raveper: Best answer... He also says that "as long as you're not going to have an excavator upstairs, it will be fine."
Dissonans: Found something called a support shim that seems easy to use, but it can't be glued. Will the floor joists 45x70 be stable with support shims underneath and then screwed into the substrate?
Erik9005: Hello! Do you have any good tips on books or videos that cover interior tasks? Vapor barrier, insulation, drywall, framing walls, bathrooms, kitchens, ventilation, etc. As practical as possible with step-by-step explanations on how things should be done. Maybe a course book for the Construction program could work? Husets ABC felt more focused on renovation for homeowners. Best regards,
billyby: [citat] Nice! I was considering microcement mostly to avoid seams as you mention, but was a bit too tempted by terrazzo and used coarse concrete. By the way, I learned a lesson this time and taped all the screws.
mickimike: If you are going to drain, there is a difference in both price at places like byggmax or the well-known firms. Both drainage pipes and stormwater pipes are needed. Tips on where it is cost-effective to buy.
TH-huset: Hello, I am trying to build a lightweight roof, about 2.5x6.3m. A very simple pitched roof on a "attefallshus" with a 3° angle. I'm considering using sheet metal since it weighs the least. But then comes the problem with the condensation that forms underneath. Here I thought I would glue 30mm XPS insulation under a sheet metal roof that is corrugated on one side and smooth on the other, to break
Kojfabriken: Perhaps this illustration can make it clearer. Additionally, the 95s have been battened out to make room for a very thin layer of insulation in between. It seems strange to me that one would do so if it was part of a load-bearing construction, but what do I know. Another reason to remove them is to make it somewhat airtight (or at least air-resistant), so that there isn't leakage between the main
Viktor.J: [citat] Well, you need to define minor. Drill holes - YES, install windows - Depends on the size of course. 1: talk to the board 2: hire a constructor 3: Get approval from the board and the municipality (building notification) 4: make the modification.
fredrik_pe: [citat] Hi! How did you decide to proceed? :)
jora2957: Thank you very much for your answers!