Building Materials and Construction Technology
cpalm: [citat] Oh, I had totally missed that. I hope they have made it easier to find what you're looking for.
tergo: [citat] perhaps consider protection against mice at the bottom edge
prototypen: I would think that the falsning starts from the top side so if the sheets are just slightly different in thickness, it will be smooth on the top side and a gap on the bottom side, and it doesn't matter there. Protte
b8q: Both should work, provided it is syllpapp (or a strip of takpapp), i.e., asphalt paper that does not let water through.
Engfield: [citat] Unfortunately, it bothers me too much so I guess I'll have to look into how troublesome it is to fix it anyway ☺️
Lulaua: One doesn't need to exaggerate; if the original poster is concerned, it's easy to calculate the load-bearing capacity of the screws if you know the type and dimension. A pillar against the facade wouldn't be ideal since it looks like the new slab is made with edge elements against the existing house, meaning all the load would come down on the baseboard and the cellular plastic.
kalle.mossberg: Hello! I am in the process of changing the layout of the house, the idea is to open up a larger part of the load-bearing interior wall. I've tried calculating the strength using various software available online, but I'm sending out a question here before contacting a real engineer to see where I stand. The idea is to open up between the red arrows I marked on the drawing, the roof has a slope of
bossespecial: It will be a solid beam, cross-section for example 140x495.
lantzen: [citat] Thanks for the tip. On the "plateau" by the patio door, I will probably have some kind of mat, but otherwise, the plan is to have the steps entirely in wood (possibly with some metal strip for slip risk).
egge80: Is there a screw in the hole between the two you have screwed on in the void?
Karl-Bertil Jonsson: Thank you very much. I don't think there is any eternit in the house, but I will be careful.
Håkan035: Hello, I am in the process of framing for drywall after a previously demolished reed wall, and as shown in the picture, the beams are crumbly at the bottom. It is visible that there has been moisture migration there before, though it's dry now. I am unsure if I need to cut this out and replace it with fresh timber? Is it even possible to make it right? Alternatively, should I brace/frame up in
Träkåk: Problem solved, found läkt in a format that provides a 120mm deep compartment perfectly
soerling: Hi, I'm pondering on how to best construct the balcony over the porch (farstukvist) and I'm considering if/how to attach the bearer to the wall when there's a metal sheet there. See attached image Is it just a matter of removing parts of the facade and screwing it on, or what do you think? Alternatively, maybe also insert a small spacer between the bearer and the metal sheet.
Rey Dyl: Hello, I plan to renovate my apartment in central Stockholm with the aim of having the bedroom placed towards the courtyard instead of the street and to open up the wall between the living room and the new kitchen. The wall we want to remove is not load-bearing, but we would like to have it examined to understand if it still has a load-bearing function since the building is >130 years old. Is
Viktor.J: [citat] it doesn't matter. A cross-section is a cross-section whether the cross-section is square or rectangular.
Niq: I would recommend tempered laminated glass for the best safety. It is very durable and you do not fall through it like with tempered single glass. It also results in fewer cuts if you fall against it compared to non-tempered laminated glass. Tempered laminated at least 4+4mm thick. But it depends on the size of the glass.
fribygg: [citat] If it's about durability and cost per year, you should probably have raw planking, underlay felt, and clay tiles or standing seam metal.
limstift: If anyone has similar concerns, I can report that foam with plaster on the surface has lasted for two years without any problems.
KimLarsson: [citat] Good tip, I'll go with this, so I can avoid the problem with crumbly concrete. Thanks everyone!
mexitegel: Well, enjoyable is probably not an epithet that Bauhaus can receive - I agree with that.
Anonymiserad 168520: [citat] Possibly, insulation might make it more resistant to heat penetration and the other walls might cool the pantry sufficiently, but there is no guarantee and it could be a lot of work without results. If the heat behind the fridge cannot dissipate elsewhere, it's only a matter of time before the refrigerator continues to heat up the pantry.
Fujim: Spontaneously, a diagonal measurement difference of two centimeters doesn't feel good enough. Not the right angle. But aren't measurements on the OUTER edge more interesting?
klaskarlsson: [citat] But if you look at the model, it's a roof meant to hang on two brackets on the façade. If you use posts, it's a completely different construction/model of roof. Then maybe this model of roof doesn’t work on a brick façade, I don't know. But I would think that as long as the brackets are sufficiently high and you find the framework behind the façade and can screw into it, so it’s
TRJBerg: [citat] There are special "mats" designed to specifically dampen footstep noise. These are intended to be placed between the floor and the joists, so to speak. In your case, you would need to remove your flooring upstairs (wood floor, vinyl flooring + chipboard, concrete, parquet + chipboard or whatever flooring you have), place the mentioned mat on the subfloor, and then replace the removed
Davion: [citat] It is about 1 cm, maybe 12 mm in the worst places. A couple of screws have been quite stressed and the head slipped through the paper and the board when there was too much tension at that point. It was possible to resolve with a different screw interval, though thoughts about moving walls naturally arose.
AndersS: Build an extension on the threshold that goes out to the sides and you drop the casing down to. Or finish against the casing. It does not need to be as high as the existing threshold.
David_Berglund: 0.00492, and thus expressed in radians? Which becomes 0.28°, which in that case is quite reasonable. Is it correct? Strangely, I get the correct unit for the deflection with these units. But of course, I agree, SI prevents mistakes. Thanks for the help!