Building Materials and Construction Technology
bossespecial: [citat] Then reinforced concrete might be good instead of masonry. Since you have the short sides and the slab holding against the longer wall, the footing doesn't need to be so big. The rule of thumb you mention applies more to the type L-support.
Stefan1972: Yes, the difference is plastic on either the underside or above the raw plank. But if it's in the cards to possibly remove it in your comparison, then of course there's no difference, but then you might as well use plastic instead of doing something that no one else does. The Americans and English like foam everywhere, but here it's not really a recognized method. I don't really understand what
Andreas Lundgren: Are the rebar rods still okay then maybe start by cleaning them and then play with zinc spray for cold galvanization perhaps? Although I'm not sure if it can have any negative impact since half of the steel is embedded...
Davion: Nice, and fun to see the process!
Stabbsson: [citat] Yes, absolutely, the board is nicely cut and everything, but after a lot of children's cries, the head just shut down :crysmile:
senegym: Hey! I was wondering what you did in this case?
Gassn: [citat] What did the constructor say?
williamspäron: And one more question. Anyone have tips on good filler to smooth out the last bit on the top side?
ullemont: Got gypsum plaster here as well. Seems to work well.
Gregx81: [citat] It's possible to just use plaster, then filler or whatever you're going to have for the "finish". Plaster becomes really robust when it has dried. No risk of cracks when it dries as can happen when you plaster either.
Gregx81: It will work well. Make sure that the strips you attach to the wall hit the studs. Should it unexpectedly give way, you can screw/glue more strips between the ones you attach to the wall, as "kottling".
Alko: Thanks for all the tips. I had a good stapler lying around, so I ended up gluing and stapling. 4mm plywood isn't very strong, so it was easy to hold down the slightly bending sheet. The staples are only 8mm, but they hold really well while the glue dries. Feels very rigid and good.
JohanErik84: Hello, I'm going to insulate board sheathing using the following method, approximately 75 sqm of wall area. What can one expect the material to cost per sqm? Including 2 pieces of 13 mm gypsum on the outermost layer. Thanks in advance!
roband915: I don't quite understand where the leca comes from, so to speak. Why do you cast a slab and then lay leca blocks around it and then plaster on the leca? Or is that how it was done in the 80s?
kniv: I have both water and electricity in the bathroom, both embedded in leveling compound with 10mm tiles on top. I haven't actually needed to turn on the electric coils during any summer... The tiles haven't felt cold, and I haven't had any issues with drying, I have a Pax fan and a bathtub. The bathroom is located in the middle of the upper floor, a single-story house with a basement.
sinuslinus: [citat] No, that's true. You can take the last few degrees with, for example, an electric planer or a table router if you have one. If you had inverted the piece you beveled (the side instead of the top board), then my calculation should have worked, at least. That sketch of the circular saw is a bit misleading because for most table saws, you tilt the blade towards the fence and not away from it.
mimu: Hello! I am facing the same problem. Did you possibly take a picture of how the ångspärr turned out later? I don't really understand your description. Thanks in advance! Mikael
Stefan N: Easier and better to tear down and build what you want directly.
wrang: Hello. I am thinking of manually digging for a pool but doing it gradually. So how do you build support on the sides as you dig deeper? I have one side that I don't want to collapse towards, so can you build some kind of "wall" that you then remove when the foundation slab is ready, and you start building up the wall? Grateful for help and ideas.
fredand44: [citat] Probably the staff you talked to has the knowledge, so it's likely correct. But I usually use yellow or red plugs from Thorsman. Prefer to drill with a 5.5 mm drill bit and use drywall screws. They usually hold really well in most cases.
D09: I think I will also lay double layers of particleboard to reach the same height as the other floors. First, there is one layer of floor particleboard (20-22mm if I remember correctly) then another layer with cutouts for the underfloor heating pipe.
bossespecial: It looks in the sketch as if the slab is also cast against the stone. In that case, you can skip the dowels since the slab acts as a counterhold. What you need to ensure is that the gable wall has support at the top if it is even possible to execute. If you remove/reduce the reason for needing reinforcement, you also save money as the amount of reinforcement decreases. Bi-steel and reinforcing
fredrik_pe: Moving forward :) New driveway and the stairs are being covered. First laid a thin layer of fine concrete. Came across a cheap batch of 60x90x3 cm granite (second grade) at flisby, a lot of cutting but it feels worth it!
BirgitS: I believe that a needle felt carpet placed on stairs wears out quickly because people step on the same spot all the time, and with more pressure than when walking on a flat surface. Then I understand a bit better what we're seeing in the pictures, and since the upper plastic mat has white paint on it, it seems like the needle felt carpet was installed at the same time as the area around the
Andre.k: Hi. I am going to build a pergola on the patio, designed to also be able to add a plastic roof later if desired. There will be 3 beams, one on the house wall, one 4 meters from the house wall, and another 2 meters out. My question concerns how to best splice the joists (the ones extending from the house). Should you splice over the beam with nailing plates, or is it better to use joist hangers on
anton1048: I have to thank you for all the responses! Ended up buying a couple of rolls of 3M Fast F anyway - good or bad!
Lilla selma: We are renovating an auxiliary area consisting of a room and a space where there is currently a shower and sauna. The shower/sauna area will become a shower and toilet, and the room will be a place for the kids to hang out with friends. Currently, the floor has tiles. I don't know if it's moisture-permeable. These can be removed and the floor raised. Or leave them and lay new flooring on top? We
nikasp: [citat] Svenskt Trä's descriptions and videos are very good even though some were recorded a long time ago. Then there's "Hur gör snickaren" on Youtube, Fiskarhedenvillan, which goes through different steps in a very good way. There are now several Instagram carpenters who have short and good videos to idly watch when you have a bit of spare surfing time. [MEDIA=youtube]H7k4uyXqfKQ[/MEDIA]