Building Materials and Construction Technology
Beaam: [citat] No, not at all., I think it's a very good solution actually. Thank you so much for your help!
BirgitS: Welcome to the forum! If the wall is load-bearing, the existing lintel of the door must be replaced with a longer and taller one. What about fire protection requirements near the stove, for example, is it possible to place a door trim near it without fire risk?
MPersen: Hello! I have acquired a worn-out garage with fiber cement boards as the facade. In the ceiling, there are boards that look like gypsum but with a slight pink tone, and they feel a bit harder. Could it be regular gypsum that can simply be taken down, or is it something else? Thanks in advance!
ab029: I am renovating the entire upper floor with a new layout and waterborne underfloor heating and have encountered a problem. During the renovation, I discovered that the staircase leans significantly toward the chimney stack. It leans about 10mm across the width of the staircase (see image). The beam structure feels solid and doesn't flex much at the staircase. The staircase's settlement was not
manner: Often the boxes are 45 mm (shallower ones are also available) and they should be installed so they are a few mm behind the finished wall. So 28mm plus your inner wall gives the measurement. So if you have a wall that is around 20mm thick, it's perfect! And you can push them a bit into the insulation behind if needed.
KVS630: [citat] [/QUOTE]
Lulle47: I will try to fill under a decking that is currently on an uneven concrete slab. The decking cannot be dismantled without much hassle. The area is about 2x2 m2 and slopes slightly, 1 cm per meter. The decking is sagging and starting to get damaged/break at the fastening points. My idea is to pour self-leveling compound in the gaps between the decking boards and thereby fill up between the
MarcWind: Moved to a new house that came with a storage room containing quite a bit of wood, and as I'm starting to gather a number of future carpentry projects, I thought I'd start by checking out what I already have in terms of lumber. Can anyone identify the type of wood for this lumber? It's reddish-brown.
z_bumbi: Check out bergo and see if you can find something that works without an extra mat on top. They have, for example, had a slab that is essentially smooth on the top side.
Satsuki: [citat] Absolutely, and it's very important, especially when an older generation of craftsmen who laid the carpets disappears. However, one should be aware that these are profit-driven companies, not non-profit organizations or government agencies.....
rand althor: I found a T-profile steel instead of steel studs behind the drywall that is positioned above a glass front door. Should I drill through the T-profile and secure with a regular "molly plug" or is it better to secure to the drywall? I'm worried that the T-profile might be damaged or something. The T-profile is ~60mm x ~1.5mm. I plan to hang two planks (pine) and attach hooks to them for hanging
Matti_75: The most stylish I think is an M16 threaded rod that is drilled into the middle of the post and down into the concrete.
Mohammad Tabatabai: Hi, I want to replace a load-bearing interior wall with a beam, 4.5 m, type glulam. I don't know how to calculate which dimension I need for the beam, can someone help me? The house is 5.8 x 8.5 m, and the beam will be placed along the long side of the house and support about half of the roof (low-slope roof with a 5-degree inclination, insulated felt roof), i.e., 5.8 x 4.5 m roof. Is there
Pittersenn: [citat] That sounds reasonable, had a carpenter here yesterday who said about the same thing. He thought it looked overall very over-dimensioned.
Installation: [citat] Do as Matti described. If you have one layer of plasterboard on the ceiling, screw the angle into the battens with the lip outward. If you have 2 layers of plasterboard on the ceiling, place the angle between these 2.
mexitegel: That's a completely different matter.
egge80: Even though this was a long time ago, do you have any updates on how it went with this? Did you get hold of the reinforcement drawing? I'm sitting with a similar house myself with the same questions.
Daliu: [citat] Thanks Claes! I'll look further into your tips and see where we end up.
Radhusjoppe: [citat] How did it go, have you completed the project? I'm having the same thoughts as you, so it would be fun to get some inspiration!
Workingclasshero: Take a completely broader and longer step like a coronation. But shouldn't there be some kind of railing? Maybe it hides something with a post?
traceour: I've cast a slab for a planting table, no top-notch result desired here. All the surfaces against the mold became shiny and fine, but the underside where I filled it in is ugly. Can I leave it porous and ugly? It's underneath anyway. The other sides I'll sand lightly and apply some beeswax.
Llvin: [citat] Thank you for your answer! I think I will focus on being attentive to smells and maybe measure the moisture content from time to time. When we moved in, the house had been empty for a long time and not normally heated, and I first noticed a strange smell at the utility entrance where there is also a laundry room, but the smell disappeared as we renovated the laundry room and removed other
Rolle85: I have removed old windows in the basement resulting in minor damages on the outside and inside where the frame for the new window will sit. Which putty should I use around the frame? [bild] [bild] [bild]
