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BSOD: I had removed these and bricked up the hole with lecablock.
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Rickard.
Rickard.: Yes, so I thought, "you usually" place the fascia board level with the highest point of the sheet metal or possibly a few millimeters higher to avoid all that. It's not a necessity or requirement, and it's not guaranteed that you'll get disturbing noise, so you have to decide on-site what will be best based on the conditions you have now. Painting the battens is absolutely not necessary; just let
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Fuga: I have a similar project to the one in this thread, but in my case, a hole needs to be made for a hatch to a space under a terrace. The terrace is an extension connected to the house with a cast floor approximately 10-15 cm thick on a wall of leca with a thickness of 20 cm. The space under the terrace has a crawl height of about 80-90 cm, and we need access for pipe installation. There are no
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Appendix
Appendix: A couple of posts here have joists placed directly on them. The inspector said. "It is wrong according to today's standards. BUT, if you don't see any damage to the wood after 50 years, it is probably not a problem."
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sepani: [bild] [citat] iron, coffee filter, sand and sandpaper became much better, completely
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chillichi: Yes, tjärpapp stains.
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Hajjen: The best thing if you want to do it yourself is to read up here in the forum, industry regulations, and other tips so that you get a good idea of what needs to be done. Then you can continue in this thread with some pictures and explanations and ask more specific questions or describe how you plan to do it, so others can provide input. That's my suggestion anyway :).
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Stenberra: Hello, the attic will now be renovated and additionally insulated in an old 1800s cottage. The attic has an area of approximately 7x5 m with 3 m to the ridge. The roof structure is a gabled construction with varying dimensions between 120-150mm where they probably removed the intermediate collar beams to make the space more habitable, then covered it with some more modern variant of tongue and
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Ronny68: [citat] I checked with a byggnadsingenjör and got approval, so I went ahead.
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perrel: Thank you very much for your answers!
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Alejandra L.: [citat] Exactly! as Rickard mentioned, I corrected myself. Among everything I'm learning, it includes measuring calmly and with the right tools.
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Mce1978: And I installed an entire roof of 80sqm this spring without any problems. There were some planks that were dented already from the store Bauhaus, so it wasn't due to the product. I think the ones I bought are called SLÄT vitgrundade or something similar.
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raveper
raveper: Add some regular too.
2 replies · 1,6k views
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raveper
raveper: Is there glue that can be used to repair swimming pools underwater?
1 reply · 844 views
MathiasS
MathiasS: First apply primer A, then plaster B.
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Claes Sörmland
Claes Sörmland: [citat] 5 hours?
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Bläcktudan: I think so too! But the price difference between galvanized and stainless is quite small. Regular untreated ones are really what I'm wondering if one can use? But maybe it's foolish to take the risk.
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PeterFalun
PeterFalun: Handsaw and use a screwdriver as a chisel
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-MH-: I am going to place sill plates for a wall on a "flat" concrete slab/terrace. The terrace has a slope of 1cm/m, and I will place studs both along and across the slope. Is it sufficient to use a regular 45mm stud and fold up the sill membrane to the outside? Or do I have to cast a sill ledge of a few cm? [bild]
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Andreas Söder: Hello, I had a piece of rotten wood that went deep into a stud for a sliding door. I've removed the rotten part and plan to attach a new piece. How do you recommend proceeding? I was thinking of painting the remaining timber with Cupriol and filling the hole with wood filler, then hammering in a piece of treated wood and sealing it with outdoor caulk. Does anyone have a better idea for a method?
0 replies · 909 views
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prototypen
prototypen: If the hook is made of 4-5 mm wire and uses a red Thorsmans plug that is 38 mm long and it's concrete, it should hold when you hang on the hook. If it's lightweight concrete/Siporex, then I don't know. Protte
5 replies · 1,5k views
Promiscuos Monkey
Promiscuos Monkey: I thought this was super smart. Sometimes when I think something is super smart, others think it's obvious. 16 seconds into the video - the dowel Then he makes "cobblestones" in cement with zip bags. Since he folds in the zip and cuts everything away afterwards, I don't understand the point of using expensive zip bags. Whatever. The idea probably has its merits? It's really easy to get an even
0 replies · 609 views
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HSP: May contain asbestos, it cannot be determined from a picture, but it almost certainly contains bitumen and PAH. What is the light brown substance to the right? Sealant? If it is to be removed, take away the entire section it is attached to if possible. That way, you won't have to worry about it.
1 reply · 981 views
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BirgitS
BirgitS: Welcome to the forum! It's good to prevent children from trying to tear at the edges for safety reasons, and this can be done by placing furniture, moving boxes, etc. over or taping over the edges. It's impossible to tell from a picture if something contains asbestos.
1 reply · 1,5k views
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KimLarsson
KimLarsson: Hello, I'm going to lay tiles in the old boiler room, where we've also torn down the walls of two older storage rooms. On the right side where the boiler used to be, it is about 4cm higher compared to the left side (by the white door), where the two old storage rooms were. What is the easiest way to level the floor here? Should the room be divided into two sections?
0 replies · 737 views
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Flk11
Flk11: Hello, I'm in the process of renovating the stairs but have hit a bit of a roadblock. I have purchased Lundbergs banister posts, end post, and handrail, and with the handrail, a mounting list for the spindles is included. If you look at the attached image, I've made a sketch of my plan, but I think the measurements might be wrong. (I measured along the stringer)... So my question to you is: how
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traceour
traceour: [citat] Ok, thanks for the response.
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Denizz
Denizz: Hello Hope I've placed the thread correctly. I have lightweight concrete between the floors at home and am considering downlights. Instead of lowering the ceiling on the first floor for downlights, I'm thinking of cutting/chiseling for conduits and boxes. How safe is this? Is there a chance that it will crack and collapse? The intermediate floor structure looks quite thick, and it's slabs that go
0 replies · 941 views
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Pappa1986: [citat] Used byggmax utefog which works fine
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