Building Materials and Construction Technology
Byggoo: Hello. I will be replacing inside the frame on a series of truss rafters. Above the lower frame, to be precise. The span is 8 meters. The rafters have a span of about 6 meters. 22-degree slope. The rafters have been undersized, causing the roof to sag slightly. I was thinking of using a jack to lift and insert a beam. What dimension would you go for with the beam? Would 56x270 work? If you
klaskarlsson: [citat] I think I painted before (but it was a while ago). It says on the tube how long you should wait before painting over... I think it was a day or so.
ÅVW: Oh thank you Matti_75, that was very valuable to know. Then we will make sure to solve this the right way.
Mattsan33: Hello I am going to build a stand-alone wood-fired sauna with an accompanying storage/relaxation area (extra bed for guests) that will be kept unheated. I have read many different ways to build, and I find it to be a jungle... The current construction proposal is from Hunton (same construction in both rooms): Wall (from outside->in): - Exterior panel - Air gap - Hunton wind barrier board 12 mm -
Carl Johansson: You can try to fix that relatively easily. Provided that the broken pieces are secure, you can mix some mortar and press it into the joints, then smooth it out with a damp sponge. After it has set for a day, you can paint the entire staircase with a cement slurry.
Lars-Göran Lindström: I had a conversation with one of our major material suppliers. They said that prices of building materials were going down. Anyone else received a similar signal?
Callmenobody: I embarked on replacing the old and rusty metal roof on my mother-in-law's summer cottage and plan to lay a felt roof. Now, it's not particularly advanced, but there are some minor complications that I haven't given much thought to. The cottage is L-shaped and they have built a sunroom in the corner, so to speak. The roof is made of multiwall polycarbonate and it is placed inserted between the
Stefan1972: But it's practically set up to break... personally, I would have opened up the hole a bit so the pipe goes through maybe 5mm, and both welded around the pipe on the outside and bridged from the pipe to the mount on the underside with a piece of plate. Just a snippet on each side would be enough. That would make it significantly more stable, and a single weld won't be stressed.
Hellstrom1990: [citat] Have the same problem here at home. May I be curious and ask how much it cost to replace a pole?
KJD: Setting up a subfloor frame (like Subfloor, Nivell, or Granab), and I've started with what's known as Nivell insulation available from Rockwool and others ("GOLVSYSTEMSKIVA ROCKWOOL"), with grooved particleboard on top of it. However, I've become confused as I was advised to avoid particleboard with plates and instead look at products like Flooré's package with grooved XPS/foam board with foil
turbo100: Hi, I have a small outbuilding of 25m2 built on an old rough concrete floor. Unfortunately, the sill is mounted directly on the slab with only a sill paper in between, so I have no edge to use for self-leveling compound. I'm considering if one can put a masonite against the sill and then spread with Schönox PL and then paint with Biltema 2-component paint. I then plan to remove the masonite so I
Martin Berg: Hello I have an old metal basement door that is rusting away, and it's probably high time to replace it. The thing is that the floor in the room inside the door is now about 10 centimeters higher than when the door was installed, resulting in a somewhat unsightly appearance. An additional inner door has managed it, but now that I'm converting the basement into a bedroom, I thought I would like to
Martin Berg: [citat] Hello everyone, I've made some progress on my job..... the solution that works for me is a shop vacuum connected to an angle grinder with a guard so that I don't get the battle of Lützen throughout the room (dust), and with a diamond grinding head. I first bought a lousy blade from Jula but it didn't work at all, so I stepped up to Biltema and that might have worked if it hadn't been too
Rickard.: [citat] The general guideline for the vapor barrier is as warm as possible but a maximum of 1/3 of the insulation inside the vapor barrier. Yours is not even close to that limit and I think the advantages of having the vapor barrier protected outweigh the disadvantages (don't really know if there are any).
Tomas184: Thank you for the detailed response and great input! However, the wall has been built since a year ago. It's available on film if you have a few minutes to spare:) [MEDIA=youtube]ke-1WeyGk38[/MEDIA] Best regards, Tomas
finklemcgraw: Thanks for the tips. The challenge in the part that needs a slope is that I have to relate to the surrounding concrete floor that already has a slope towards the floor drain. Probably, I can use a screed board against the existing floor, but that requires the mass I use not to flow too much on its own. I don't know much about different slip compounds, but from what I understand, they typically
tt_sthlm: I work as a structural engineer at Åkermans in Malmö. If you send the building permit documents, I can arrange a quote.
Garderobssnickarn: [citat] hi tiger79! Did you manage to find the answer to your question somewhere? I have similar concerns right now.
dilemma: I usually use a multitool for the joints, works great and then the rest is usually child's play.
Candell: Thanks for the quick replies! Sounds like the panel might do the trick then. However, since there are gaps between them, it's not as resistant to moment forces as if they were together. I think I'll add a montageband-cross too, to have a little margin. (Small is the size of a "friggebod". About 4x3.5m.)
TheGame: [citat] Haha yes, that was a way to write a Wall of text and then say "let it go now" to the one you're writing to. But anyway, I apologize to TS if they did not understand.
BirgitS: [citat] Sounds good to me but I'm just an amateur.
bitte.kN: Our torp1850 has a functioning wood stove. Now the plaster/lime has come off, so how do I repair it? I'd like to do the work myself, but I have no idea how to do it. I understand that I need to remove what's loose. It's by the floor that it has come off, mostly in a corner below the stove. Any advice is helpful (I hope) Bitte
Oneminde: Got a reply from Mats who works at Sika (Casco's parent company) and he simply says: "Yes, there is a difference," but he doesn't have enough information about the chemical differences. Only knows that there is so-called heat-curing polyurethane and that it is NOT the same as moisture-curing PUR that we can buy in the store. On the other hand, I can somewhat understand the disclaimer as the
Stefan N: It won't last long to just stick them on with fix on that surface. But if you're planning a major renovation next year, just throw them on with fix now.
cpt: [citat] yeah, but I'm thinking don't the screed strips I put up have to match the existing plaster and its thickness?