We are planning to open up the floor plan in our 1947 house by removing a wall that we thought was non-load-bearing but now turns out to be part of the attic joists. What changes/considerations must be made for us to remove the wall in the picture? This wall runs along the rafters.

Our neighbor who lives in an identical house has removed the wall without adding any support/reinforcement, but it doesn't seem right now that we see how it's constructed.
 
  • Opening in a wooden wall in a house, suggesting renovation. A vacuum cleaner is positioned on a striped rug, and a staircase is visible in the background.
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In a house with a plank frame, all walls are more or less load-bearing. The simplest solution is to settle for making a larger opening in the wall. In that case, the top plank pieces can remain in place if you support them with a beam. The alternative is to remove the plank wall completely and insert a new beam into the floor structure, but that involves much more work for limited benefit.
 
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BirgitS
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J justusandersson said:
In a house with a plank frame, all walls are more or less load-bearing. The simplest option is to settle for making a larger opening in the wall. Then the top plank pieces can remain if you support them with a beam. The alternative is to remove the plank wall completely and insert a new beam in the floor joists, but that would be much more work for limited benefit.
Thanks for the response!
What dimension of beam are we talking about, do you think? The opening is 4m.

Is there a possibility to do something on the top side, i.e., the attic?
 
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Robertre
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How thick is the plank wall?
 
J justusandersson said:
How thick is the plank wall?
Approximately 50 mm.
 
Is the wall parallel with the house's length direction?
Then it supports the attic floor structure and the trusses' "underliggare".

I think it will be difficult to remove it and long-term have a stable house without installing a beam.
 
Huddingebo Huddingebo said:
Is the wall parallel with the lengthwise direction of the house?
Then it supports the attic floor and the "bottom chord" of the roof trusses.

I think it will be difficult to remove it and long-term maintain a stable house without incorporating a beam.
No, the wall is parallel with the roof trusses. In my world, lengthwise is the same as the ridge.
 
I don't have all the necessary details, but a glulam beam of 56x225 mm should have margins. An advantage of glulam is that it is available in widths other than 45 mm.
 
S scasi said:
No, the wall is parallel with the rafters. In my world, length direction is the same as the ridge.
If it is parallel with the rafters, then that wall is probably not "load-bearing" in the true sense of the word but stiffening. For example, to absorb wind loads etc.

Then it might not be enough to replace it with a beam. But it sounds like an experienced wooden house designer should take a look at that.
 
Huddingebo Huddingebo said:
If it is parallel with the rafters, that wall is probably not "load-bearing" in the true sense of the word, but rather bracing. For example, to handle wind loads, etc.

It may not be enough to replace it with a beam. But it sounds like an experienced wooden house constructor should take a look at that.
Thanks for the info. Yes, a constructor will have to look at this, but I thought I'd post here to get some ideas and a sense of what it involves.
 
J justusandersson said:
I don’t have all the necessary details, but a glulam beam 56x225 mm should have margins. One advantage of glulam is that it can be obtained in widths other than 45 mm.
Thanks for the help!
 
S scasi said:
Thanks for the help!
What did the constructor say?
 
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IvarJonte75
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