Building Materials and Construction Technology
Claes Sörmland: [citat] The same mortar that was there originally. If it's a house from the 60s, it's probably regular masonry mortar that you can buy in a bag.
Pipslo: I am in the process of dividing a recreation room with a limited ceiling height of about 209 cm. I am working on installing a sliding door frame with module dimensions 17x20. The frame is attached to wooden studs on the sides. Thus, there is about 9 cm between the top of the door frame and the ceiling. I am using steel studs where the track in the ceiling is about 5 cm high. According to the
Solskensbyggare: [citat] Yes, seen it on several pages, and Xella who sells Ytong stuff has no prices. Must contact them. But don't you think Mortar C could work? It's going to be such a project...
Pa Lang Gi: That there is no ventilation but it is not sealed around the windows and door. Thinking a vent with a fan would be good? [citat]
BORNER: [citat] Thank you, @dibb for the detailed response!
Jan_G: Concrete roof paint, Hagmans has it. Works excellently. Sprayed it myself 3 years ago. Still like new :D
tergo: Foam must be covered with something, e.g. a trim, cannot withstand sunlight
Åsa Lund: Regardless, the contractor shall correct any errors at their own expense. The board's mission is to ensure that the members get value for their money.
Leif i Skåne: [citat] But then it has a special smell, especially if it gets slightly warmed.
Matti_75: It was probably right before the metal assembly. It can be up to 100mm gap.
Ludde Jakobsson: The foundation I would repair with a leca block. Easy to plaster on. As for the filler, it's hard to see... could it be plaster?
LarsDaniel: Not properly documented as far as I know, but there is similar use for floors. Skanska is said to use the technology also in walls instead of mineral wool in multi-family houses. I do it to reduce problems with rats and mice, which despite good sanitation are insurmountable on the farm after rat poison has been so heavily restricted.
Småbruket: Hello The question concerns a house built in 1925 with a mansard roof. Inside the kneewall, there seems to be a thicker beam? towards the outer wall that stands vertically and is somewhat thicker than the wall, as well as a thick horizontal beam? in the floor. The wall itself consists of two planks with some kind of paper between them (about 9cm thick). None of the planks seem to attach to the
Larsa: If you can find a stud and get one or two fasteners in it, then it's all good, then Molly in the corners. Sometimes you can see where the drywall joint is if you look with grazing light, otherwise a strong little magnet can find the screw line. Otherwise, there are cheap stud finders. If it's a modern house, it might be a metal stud.
z_bumbi: [citat] Just measure and if it ends up being too short, countersink the screw into the rule.[/QUOTE]
TRJBerg: [citat] Sometimes it doesn't work to call, meaning they never answer.
Användarnamn 1972: Hello, I'm currently building a Tinyhouse and I'm a bit unsure about the best solution regarding how to lay my subfloor on the actual floor joists. Should I let the subfloor go all the way out to where the floor joists end (towards the fresh air :-) ) and then start building the wall directly on this? Or should I pull the subfloor back 95 mm (outer wall thickness) and then place the bottom plate
Bläcktudan: We usually install tracked pine plywood when customers want their old paneled doors renovated.
Toffelhjälten: Beijer byggmaterial has on its website a program for dimensioning glulam beams. Google it. There you fill in several measurement variables such as house width and roof pitch, etc. Then you get a suggestion for a beam. That's what I did and increased a dimension because there was too much deflection. You can print it out and then inquire from the supplier you wish to purchase from.
Ahmada: [citat] Good idea, I can imagine this could work. Thanks! I'll think more about it.
rivaner: Hello, I am going to attach a pressure-treated beam to a masonry wall that will later be insulated. I have threaded rods, washers, and nuts in stainless steel class A2. Can I use them, or do I need to buy new ones in class A4 (acid-resistant)? The beam will be completely hidden so local discoloration is not a problem. Long-term durability is. I obviously don't want discoloration further down the
Bläcktudan: The requirement today is 23mm råspont if you are going to have ytpapp. If you use formplyfa, it will need to be 22mm and you will need to bridge the joints between the roof trusses. I think it will look very silly and unsuccessful. I say, use råspont.
Oggga: [citat] [citat] is waterproof membrane for wet rooms the same thing as a vapor barrier?
Juhani Jarlinge: [citat] [citat] [bild] [bild] :surprised: I glued together 3 pieces of 21x70 planed, has held up well for a year
Alko: Other things got in the way as usual, but now it's finally time to glue and screw the parts together for the three shelf sections. Cut back panels in plywood that should work as a template to keep it straight, so the shelf doesn’t turn into a rhombus. Initially, I thought about gluing and screwing the shelves to one side panel first at "exactly" 90 degrees and letting it dry before attaching
MVJK: Do you have a picture of how it turned out? I'm working on a similar build but chose steel studs - maybe a mistake. It's difficult to get it completely stable on all parts of the half-wall.
Okarlsson: [citat] Priority one would have been a toilet. Being able to go to the toilet indoors has been standard for 50 years. Then I would probably have installed an air-to-air heat pump and, as mentioned above, a dehumidifier if it is humid.