Building Materials and Construction Technology
jontemålare: Hello! Does anyone have a good technique for getting the corner angle straight and any tips on how to know if the wall plate and sill are plumb? One wall will have studs 45x45 and the other 45x70 due to the built-in frame. I was thinking of using metal profiles instead of wall plate/sill [bild]
Fredric87: Hello Today I got the keys to our new house. It's from the 60s, and almost all the interior walls are concrete, but the wallpaper is hard to remove. It's uneven, and I want to add additional wiring, so I want to drywall. It's a split-level house, and the rooms in question are above ground. What's the best way to do this? Glue drywall directly to the concrete wall with the wallpaper using
BiFuel: [citat] Great, I'll go with that. Vitavia's instructions left a lot to be desired :crysmile:
ÉlPon: I have now concluded that I will reduce the width to 20cm instead and use hollow blocks that I can then reinforce and cast, so it feels more stable. Then I have room for an additional 5cm outside the column, i.e., 5+5cm in total.
bighenk: Hello! I'm in the almost final stage of building the carport. I've asked a few local people about my idea for the roof beams to see if it will work. But I thought I'd also ask the question here. I have 13 glulam beams that will support my 0.6mm corrugated metal roof. I wish to keep these beams untreated for simplicity and economic reasons. The idea was also to directly screw the metal roof onto
peter.linkan: As we are going to install FTX, we need to remove these old asbestos ventilation pipes (they are located right where the FTX pipes must go, so they need to be removed). What is the best way to do this? In another thread on the subject, someone mentioned that it's okay to remove them, but you should avoid cutting into them. But then how should you proceed? Cutting is the only solution I can think
Prodigys: [citat] Draw a line that you can follow and work slowly. Small chips can always be covered with an edge strip.
fribygg: No, you do not need stainless screws, but you can choose Grabber's stainless TREX with LOX bits if you wish. You and your successors will swear every time you have to move or remove a screw and wish you had chosen regular galvanized nails instead. I would have chosen regular surface-treated screws for outdoor use, preferably with a torx head if the house has no architectural preservation
ÉlPon: I am going to build a basement wall 300mm where 1.5 meters are underground. What is the difference between Leca block and Leca murblock? I asked in their online chat but only got the answer that Block is a newer version, then the chat disappeared. https://www.se.weber/leca/leca-blockmurblock/lecar-block-300-fin https://www.se.weber/leca/lecar-murblock/lecar-murblock-30-typ3 Block 300 are hollow,
gofika: I'll try again! I plan to extend with a new basement and want wooden floors in the new rooms. As I see it, I have two options: (1) Embed underfloor heating pipes directly into the concrete slab and lay wooden flooring on top, cast the concrete slab so that it is 2-3 centimeters lower than the desired final floor height. (2) Cast the concrete slab so that it is a couple of decimeters(?) lower than
Niklaspe: Year built 1975, snow zone 3 Norrbotten. 38-degree roof angle. Then you can check the design software. 90x90 glulam column.
JohanCarlsson75: Hi there! I've read a bit in the forum about how to repair a chimney and it seems to vary depending on when it's built. I need to repair the corner as you can see in the picture and some cracks. What should I use? Then I want to paint it white. What kind of paint should I use?
Bläcktudan: I don't understand the question? Are you referring to the vangern of a staircase? Edit: I missed that it said ramp. Someone else will have to answer that. But spontaneously, I think you could aim for the calculations in the dimensioning table for heavy flooring. Somewhere in that region, I think it falls.
Höghus: I made the same mistake. Used one of these. https://www.bauhaus.se/fogkrats-proffs-2 You can choose one or 2 blades at the same time depending on the joint width. A lot of work but turned out well in the end. /Höghus
plåtrickard: [citat] Yes, exactly.
zarkov: My wild guess is that the beam is located above the living room doors in the last two pictures, most likely an I or H-beam in steel. What you need is a civil engineer with a structural focus.
-MH-: [bild] This is clipped from the construction description "Enkla Stugan". The horizontal liggreglar (49) are beveled in the inner corners so it's possible to nail the standing hörnreglar (25). Can't you just simply move the hörnreglar 45 mm "outwards" from the corners (or at least one of them) to avoid that process? Or do they need to be placed so that the corner is held together by hörnbeslag
jonasmolina: Hello, I am going to replace the wood paneling on a villa built in 1909 that currently has vertical paneling with cover strips. I am thinking of mixing horizontal wood paneling with vertical paneling without cover strips (as in the picture), and I have checked with most hardware stores where I haven't quite found that classic look with the smaller dimensions. Does anyone have tips on where to
kaked08: Hello Are there any knowledgeable people here who can identify what I just tore out 4 square meters of? Razor-sharp edges and extremely hard material. Regards
HappySleep: Hi, haven't done much more. A few (many) hours with high pressure work. Unfortunately, the heat gun broke so it hasn't been tested.
ÉlPon: The constructor doesn't have all the facts about the house. He knows loads and so on, and in my case, I'm switching from unknown 16cm to wider 25cm, which can hardly have a negative impact on the load-bearing capacity. The remaining question is about heat/moisture. If I were to speculate (I have no contact with the constructor), I would guess the constructor thought I wanted it more as a living
Nygge72: Those of you who have installed exterior paneling and mitered the corners at the outer corners (45 degrees). Do you add a few mm to the length of the board so that it fits together well, and if so, how many mm? Or do you miter right at the edge and it fits together at the joint? Thanks in advance
Jonatan79: [citat] Aha, gather the ones that are in good condition and put them in the same part so you avoid extra work. Some of the framework can probably be saved too, it doesn't show anyway.
myrstack: [citat] normally you have the rods for sharp angles up to 90 degrees but they can also be used to protect smaller angles. Besides taking hits from vehicles, etc., they are practical so you can draw off the concrete against the edge when it starts to set.
tompabighouse: Trying to put together a frame. The material is planed pine 45x25 (so quite thin). I cut all the corners at 45° with a saw + miter box and screwed the corners together. When I set up the frame, it stands very crooked (No shit Sherlock). I understand that one screw in each corner makes it difficult to maintain the angle and that it's probably not enough when the material is so light and that