Hi! I would like some input on whether a wall in the basement can be load-bearing or not in a house built in the '50s. As you can see in the attached picture, (sorry about the scale) there is currently a brick wall between the garage and the boiler room. My idea was to possibly make a hole in this, roughly door-sized.
The wall is 80mm including plaster, so how load-bearing can it really be, I wonder...
Those of you who know can gladly analyze my fine provisional drawing and say what you think and feel. Can you make a hole in this one, you think?
 
  • Blueprint of a basement showing a proposed doorway in an 80mm brick wall between a garage and a boiler room, with labeled rooms and arrows.
An 80mm thick wall sounds thin to be load-bearing.

How does the intermediate floor go?
How do the roof trusses go?
 
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BirgitS
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BirgitS
Even if it is not load-bearing, it can be stabilizing, i.e., it prevents the outer wall from being pushed in by all the earth outside. Therefore, the door should be placed as far as possible from the outer wall, and at least half a meter of wall is probably needed closest to the outer wall.

The longitudinal wall between the boiler room and the laundry is usually load-bearing. How thick is it?

Keep in mind that it is common to have asbestos-containing materials around garages and boiler rooms, and that garages and boiler rooms (if there is still a boiler used for heating) should be a different fire compartment than residential areas, thus requiring fire protection.
 
Demmpa Demmpa said:
80mm thick wall sounds thin to be load-bearing.

How does the floor joist run?
How do the roof trusses run?
The roof trusses appear to run crosswise according to the section image. I don't know how the floor joists run. Are there any quick ways to find this out without tearing up the floor?
 
  • Cross-sectional architectural drawing of a building showing roof trusses, floors, and room heights with measurements in meters.
  • Blueprint of a house showing the side elevation and basement floor plan, including labeled rooms like kitchen and laundry area.
BirgitS BirgitS said:
Even if it isn't load-bearing, it can be stabilizing, i.e., preventing the outer wall from being pushed in by all the soil outside. Therefore, the door should be placed as far as possible from the outer wall, and it probably requires at least half a meter of wall closest to the outer wall.

The longitudinal wall between the boiler room and laundry is usually load-bearing. How thick is it?

Keep in mind that it is common to have asbestos-containing material around garages and boiler rooms, and that garages and boiler rooms (if there is still a boiler being used) should be a separate fire compartment from living areas and therefore require fire protection.
Thank you for the response! I found the building plans from '57, where you can see how high the ground level is at the garage. The ground level might be at chest height. The load-bearing longitudinal wall is 21.5 cm, and the outer wall is 22. But if we play it safe by leaving a meter and opening perhaps 0.9-1 m
 
  • House blueprint from 1957 showing elevation and floor plan, including garage level, supporting walls, and interior room layout.
  • Cross-section architectural drawing showing a garage with marked dimensions, roof pitch, and wall thickness. Includes ground level relative to the structure.
BirgitS
Mellösawille Mellösawille said:
But if you play it safe by leaving a meter and maybe open 0.9-1 m
Sounds good to me but I'm just an amateur.
 
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