Building Materials and Construction Technology
Colino: [citat] After intensive googling, I have now concluded that it is probably straw or flax used as an insulation material. If anyone has other input, it is welcome.
AJ82: The laundry room is ventilated with continuous mechanical exhaust. We have only lived in the house since around midsummer and have dried all the laundry outdoors without using a dryer. Before we moved in, the house was empty for about a year, so I can't imagine it has been particularly humid in the laundry room, at least not recently. A water leak cannot be ruled out, I suppose, but it seems
anders07: I have a door in the basement section installed in a rather deep "niche" on the inside. Initially, I had plastered walls in the niche, but after a window/door replacement, it was so damaged that I put up boards inside the niche. The drainage on the outside is just Platon, so some moisture seeps through the wall (400mm ytong). The first attempt was regular MDF boards (with plastic on the back),
Stefan N: I always use primer so the paper doesn't absorb so quickly.
BirgitS: The wall shown in the sectional drawing is load-bearing. Therefore, the walls you want to remove are parts of load-bearing. If you want to open up more in those walls, you need to bring in a structural engineer for investigation and dimensioning so that you get the documentation required for a building notification to the municipality.
Viktor.J: Agree with the above. Find a skilled constructor and save money as it will likely cost to fix. If you're going to tear down the chimney and the entire heart wall, you'll need to do both this and that. Alternatively, find a new house.
myrstack: [citat] as I believe was previously mentioned, it looks like there's a granite wall at the bottom and what you see is probably the foundation wall for the porch, not some cladding stone (unless previous owners can swear by an underlying construction in another material). A stone company should be able to find a similar type of cladding stone with a split face, but emulating an old foundation wall
Deboerak: [citat] Hmm, what do you say? Should I go with a plastered wall or frame with Steel studs & drywall?.. Which is most advantageous? The room is about 15sqm
Nymis: Hello, I am trying to find information about intermediate floors in aerated concrete (with aerated concrete joists) as an alternative to the "traditional" intermediate floor with wooden joists. For the traditional "wood-based" intermediate floor, I have found the following component layers and properties regarding conductivity and density. You can then calculate an average U-value based on this
Timmerö: [citat] I will try with gravel! But it would be nice if the gravel "stuck" since I'm planning to build it so that you can rotate the bowl if you want it completely horizontal. However, I think it will mostly be angled as shown in the picture above. I like the idea with the colander! I'll try that too, I googled it a bit and it seems to be a good way to burn pinecones, which I have enormous
Daniel_N: Hello! I have WW roof trusses. Span 12m, c-c trusses 1200mm, dimension of upper/lower chord 45x220mm. Can one calculate the live load/m2 in the attic with this information?
Matti_75: Keep in mind that it must withstand an adult person falling into it.
Claes Sörmland: [citat] As long as it won't be burned in the channel, it should be fine. But leca is porous, so it lets smoke gases through and cannot withstand high heat since it is cement-bound.
senegym: I can also mention that the old installation was probably more about: solve it so we have a toilet with a shower option, for a reasonable amount of money, rather than: solve this as nicely as possible so we get a good practical bathroom.
Chrillthesill: Big thanks for all the tips! To avoid drilling larger holes and try the easiest option, I changed the screw to one with threading all the way out. I had missed this in the rush to finish before the dinner guests arrived. These screws held much better since, of course, the formply is the load-bearing part. I don't think it will hold very large weights, but it should handle a router and a smaller
Gabbe1: [citat] I usually use the same standard values you used, 50 kg/m2 dead weight and 200 kg/m2 load, as well as the assumption that half of the load impacts the beam (if it's in the middle). You usually get pretty close to the truth with these values even if there are things that can have an effect. For example, more than half of the load will impact the beam if the floor joists in the intermediate
phattrance: Had a shelf above the TV that collapsed today and I had previously used 4 drywall anchors with screws ( https://www.clasohlson.com/se/Gipsankare-med-skruv/p/Pr409228000 ), but for some reason, the shelf couldn't handle the pressure and the center speaker fell down. Does anyone know how I can fix the two upper holes? The two lower ones I will cover with a new shelf that will "cover" the existing
Lexington: [citat] Absolutely. We're going to renovate the kitchen soon, so there will be a lot of traffic through the entrance; we'll probably level the floor after that, around mid-October!
Hanna Eriksson Harrkvist: [citat] The opening between the dining room and living room is currently a wall, this is the original plan and the wall was made by the previous owner. Now there is only the opening (an arch) between the living room and hall, and that "beam" towards the ceiling is approximately 12-13cm in width.
Falkmal: [citat] Thanks, but I don't have the same opportunity to build a similar staircase. My stairwell is only 2.83m long before a load-bearing wall comes.
lamorte: I solved it all by slightly lifting the house with jacks (hydraulic jacks from Biltema) in the same hole where the support was to insert extra sill between the existing sill and the brick wall. I prepared this extended sill by gluing the sill paper in advance and then cut out holes for the jacks before placing it and lowering the house again. [bild] [bild] [bild]
Hans G2: The supply in buildings at a reasonable price is virtually non-existent when I searched myself a few weeks ago. I solved it via Amazon for 250 kr: https://www.amazon.se/Rapid-h%C3%A4ftapparat-tryckluftspikare-elektriska-regulatorer/dp/B00C9D2E8W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Rapid+rostfri+dyckert&qid=1660893536&sr=8-3
huggan: I can't do that either but if you want to take the opportunity to use it as regular exhaust and you don't have other ventilation in the room, then it's 0.35 l/s per sqm. But then you must make sure you have the same in supply air somewhere as well.
metramo: Forgotten purchases lead to extra fuel expenses. Building markets and others should give extra warnings. With molly bolts spinning, jack ochsa uses something to secure the threads so the bolt spins. Also, DO NOT remove the washer that comes with it.
pennybridge: [citat] Thanks for the help! Yes, it's a bit temporary just when the picture was taken. All the electricity will be properly redone with new cables after the surfaces are fixed in the coming days :)
Byggoo: Hello. I will be replacing inside the frame on a series of truss rafters. Above the lower frame, to be precise. The span is 8 meters. The rafters have a span of about 6 meters. 22-degree slope. The rafters have been undersized, causing the roof to sag slightly. I was thinking of using a jack to lift and insert a beam. What dimension would you go for with the beam? Would 56x270 work? If you