Building Materials and Construction Technology
mojjen: Time to revive my old thread about footstep soundproofing. It's quickly approaching completion, so I thought I'd do one final round for some feedback. As mentioned, I've wanted to do some footstep soundproofing and create a somewhat damped space between the floors in our house. We're not talking about apartment separation here. Impact on the ceiling below is also not currently an option.
wraaxz: [citat] Maybe I phrased it a bit wrong, but I'm thinking of that cross arrangement of gles, don't really know what it's called :rofl:
Kaffeböna: Hello, I'm in the process of getting rid of an old built-in waste bin in the house. You know, one of those iron ones that opens outward which the garbage men used to empty and put in a new bag back in the day. My initial thought is to brick up the hole with the pipe. But what do I do with the pipe? Throw in concrete and level it off or first remove the insulation around the pipe and then pour
Bajsraketen: Thank you so much for all the answers. We have decided on a parquet floor.
Dr Benz: I have an old house from the mid-1800s. Which studs should I choose for the few interior walls that there will be? (Most of it is stone) The house is being built with an old-fashioned feel but modernized, with underfloor heating, etc. Regardless of which option you prefer, please comment on why.
topmount: K-rauta sells something similar. https://www.k-rauta.se/produkt/cello-combistar-bjork-20m/8033487107247
Gabbe1: [citat] Welcome to the forum! It can be difficult to chisel a flat surface, but on the other hand, adhesive can absorb quite a few uneven spots. You might be able to use adhesive to even out the surface before laying tiles. Or if you want to buy leveling compound, that works too. Don't forget to prime the surface after chiseling, regardless of the method you choose.
Fuffinanna: Marked the wall in red. On the drawing, it's a wall that goes all the way. But in reality, it's a half wall.
Feskekörka: Hello! I have a stone staircase with a metal railing along one side. I wish to install a loading ramp, but want to be able to fold it up along the railing. The idea is to quickly and easily bring it down when you need to transport bikes/wheelbarrow etc. The only thing I can think of is to anchor it with some kind of hinge at the bottom. Suggestions/tips on a suitable hinge, or another solution,
-MH-: The facade connects to a "flat" concrete terrace with a rubber membrane on it. The older house (to the right of the corner) has a metal flashing against the wall which has then been glued over with rubber. [bild] For the new section that I have modified, can you lay a strip of rubber that goes up a bit on the sill and then glue it to the floor? What product could it be? This?
Mixmax: Thanks for the explanation, I just wanted layman's terms to understand a bit better. I'll leave the calculations to others, but I want an overall overview. The material for the bärlina was already available, hence the use of the dimension.
Walle85: We have just made a new wall for the kitchen, the entire wall is covered with chipboards, about 20mm thick, then there will be a row with frames for all the drawers and a stone kitchen counter, and the whole wall covered with cabinets above the counter, screwed into the wall at the top where the crossbar is behind the chipboard. [bild]
topmount: Isn't it easier to fold in the rule/beam before you tear down the door? I think you will still have to count on repairing a good bit outside the hole you make, meaning you should expect the surrounding surfaces to be damaged.
Klabbis 3000: What kind of sealant has good adhesion and durability for use on those plastic roofs commonly used above patios? I recall that products like Tec7 have limited adhesion on some plastics. I'm not referring to polycarbonate, but the usual uninsulated type which is corrugated like roofing sheet.
Villatore: Hello! I'm planning to bag wash/slam a small brick house with diffusion-open mortar. Do you wash the house with just water? Do you apply a base render? I've understood that you buy render in the color you want. I'd gladly accept tips and tricks.
krse: We will build, among other things, a pump house and do interior work in, for example, a guest house, such as putting up paneling, ceiling, and laying flooring (wood flooring). What tools should one invest in, and which brands are good and affordable?
Höghus: [citat] Check out grooved/profiled plywood. It gives a nicer feel than completely smooth plywood. /Höghus
fribygg: Of course, it's hardly an obstacle to use it in a fireplace if it fits.
Anonymiserad 55101: Thank you very much for your answers! Realize now that it might be post shoes/beam shoes I mean. That should go down into the plinths. Like these types: [bild] However, I would like similar ones but that you cast instead - thinking it should be more durable - or? Then another question - does anyone know what kind of hard rubber/plastic or whatever it is that they insert underneath?
Vinterblad: Hello I have a house from 1965 that I am improving, step by step. It is located in Sigtuna municipality. Now it's time to insulate the cold passage. I have read lots of tips and advice on insulation, but in my inexperience, I can't see that any of them really fit my house. Against the house is a large cold garage, as long as the house, with a roof that slopes backward at a low angle. I don't know
Semiproffset: No, it is not necessary. The beams absorb water extremely slowly on that surface, and additionally, the amount of water/moisture that can end up there is extremely small.
Jonatan79: [citat] It is counted as regular walls, waterproofing as usual but not where the sliding door goes in because it is not technically possible and is not even included in the recommendations if I remember correctly.
MoveMe: [citat] Hello, do you have pictures of your cast concrete?
Åsa Lund: Swedish wood has otherwise good info online Likewise, Beijer Byggmaterial and other retailers
Dunderkvarnen: Hello I have a south-facing house with a patio on the south side, and I plan to excavate the slope under the current patio to build two apartments with a total area of 8*10 m (each apartment will be about 40 sqm). A patio is to be built on top of the apartments, and the challenge is to find a roof solution for the apartments that adds as little height as possible (due to the sewage that needs to
Rickard.: Fence sheet or ridge sheet and you will probably need to order it from a local (advantageous) sheet metal worker.
fribygg: [citat] 20 mm is way too flimsy as a nail rule for planks.
Thomas_C: I have a lightweight concrete house from 1969 with paneling above and below the windows. The paneling needs to be replaced and there has been unprotected insulation underneath. And there hasn't been an air gap before. What should I do now? Do I put insulation again, then wind barrier, then some air gap before the paneling? It can't build up too much to match the plaster.