Building Materials and Construction Technology
jokar: [citat] I will let the carpenters set the floor chipboard but spontaneously the floor chipboard lies directly against the other beams and thus the blue rule is on top of the floor chipboard.
sslacker: Hello! I am planning to relieve a wall from the crawl space. I intend to use a glulam beam for this purpose. I am now considering how to create posts for this. The foundation is sloping rock. Do you have any tips or ideas on how I should proceed? Ultimately, I want to be able to adjust the height of the posts.
Myckling: One casts a foundation for heavy fireplaces such as a tiled stove or soapstone stove, which often weigh over a ton. A 280-kilo fireplace can probably stand directly on the floor, but the tip about supporting it with an additional pillar was not a bad idea.
Husåhem: Adding an additional question: Should one only screw in noggins between floor joists in a "cold" floor structure facing a crawl space, or can brackets be used? (angle brackets, etc.) I'm thinking about the thermal bridges you risk getting with brackets.
Anonymiserad 55101: No one knows this? :) Does anyone know the span you can have with double glulam beams 90mm*315mm according to the tables? Can't find anything about it.. That is, between A and B here: https://www.traguiden.se/konstrukti...dbalkar-till-1-planshus/?previousState=101000
somesundaymorning: Thank you the best! When you write kortlingar, how do you mean they should be placed? Across between the last rule and the rule before? Or any other thought there?
Fixaren06: I have a Dewalt 7033 with miter angles at 0, 15, 30, and 45 degrees. It has stops for all angles but I notice it has a marking for 10 degrees. Is it possible to get 10 degrees with the miter saw in a reasonable way? I don't know if it can have additional stops for other angles if you adjust the saw slightly?
FrippeFlyer: [citat] Hello ClasseClas... Thanks for the tip. Will look further into it... /F
KJD: Sorry for using this a bit like a notebook on the subject - but found this: [bild] [bild] https://www.ikem.se/globalassets/o.eps-sverige/dokument-eps/info-material/bygg-sakert-med-cellplast.pdf
Ingentjuga: Hey! I saw that there are self-centering drill bits from, among others, Bosch (Clic-Change), couldn't find them at Bauhaus as far as I could see. But they were available on amazon.se. Has anyone tested them? Or tested something similar?
*Christina*: And the basement project is moving forward, time to pour the floor
Workingclasshero: Or dig next to the wall and attach a long iron with the same interface as the concrete posts, since attaching something to the wall seems like a pretty bad idea. Alternatively, get a really heavy thick small plate to set the interface so that it stands "loose" and can't affect the wall more than the force downwards, and then brace the post properly.
Klabbis 3000: Can one believe that these are suitable for permanent packing of wooden poles? Their website states that they are not intended for permanent packing of concrete elements, but there are much larger loads in those cases. https://www.distex.se/kilar---pallningsbrickor/pallningsbrickor
jelg: [citat] @Centano not mechanical, just a lattice vent to the outside including a duct in the wall. It used to be a toilet in the space where this vent is located, which was previously ventilated this way (old house, walls to the toilet are gone). The toilet has now been moved and pax installed in the new space. There are other supply air vents that are sufficient on this floor. Currently, my
Utsliten och utdömd: Works great, I'm using Weber gipsym, I've plastered a wall with it 2-6 cm about 2 sqm. I didn't use reinforcement but I applied primer on the brick before.
jahallåja: Thanks for all the tips I actually have a bottle of Illbruck PU700 that I was thinking of using to glue down the stair treads so they don't tilt when you step on the edge. It seems to glue metal as well, but I'm a bit worried that it will foam and get generally messy around. Under the steps, it's nothing that concerns me, so I hadn't thought much about it when I bought the tube. I assume it will
David Gullberg: Is there hope for these cracks you see in the pictures? Can they be repaired by oneself? Which mortar should be used? Someone knowledgeable is welcome to write down the steps that need to be done. Thanks in advance!
Viktor.J: Hi, I have a house from 1945 and have been considering insulating the attic for a long time. Currently (viewed from the attic) ATTIC - about 20cm of wood shavings - Raw board - Vapor barrier - Gypsum/Wood pane LIVING AREA Considering adding 90 or 180mm wood fiber boards. Does anyone know what it would contribute to energy savings? Consumption is about 25k kWh, of which about 16-18k should be
ankan_84: Hello, I am about to start renovating a basement space that will become a bedroom. This inevitably leads to discussions on how to construct and what methods to use. I was in contact with a structural engineer who said to use steel studs with insulation, then plastic, OSB, and gypsum. It is important to have an air gap between the basement wall and the new wall. The floor is intended to be parquet
LukasK: Currently, there is only a catwalk in the attic. Despite this, a lot is stored there using primitive shelves between the W-trusses. The W-trusses span 7.5 m and are constructed with upper and lower sections of 45x140. I don't see any obvious sagging at the moment. Now I want to have a simple floor there (wood planking) that ends about 1.5 m before the outer wall/truss termination. My original
kniv: [citat] Doesn't your other thread work anymore? Maybe it would also be good to mention where in the country the house is located if a structural engineer is going to inspect on site.
Claes Sörmland: Drill out any shavings from the hole and glue in a matchstick (small hole) or a round dowel (larger hole) with wood glue also works well. Let the glue dry, drill, and screw.
roli: At Moelven, you can register and gain access to web-based dimensioning. https://www.moelven.com/se/produkter-och-tjanster/allt-om-limtra/dimensioneringshjalp/
Immobil: [citat] Yes, or leave the damage as it is, it won't be visible when the machines are in place. Put a plastic underlay underneath as Pluto suggests.
RullPutte: I'm thinking of replacing the cross bracing with sheets of plywood or OSB inside the wall. - Which sheet is suitable for an unheated and uninsulated sunroom? - What thickness should the sheets have? [bild]
TSajdak: Hello Anyone have tips on manufacturers or suppliers of ribbed wall panels? I'm not looking for the acoustic panels like the ones woodupp has. I want the ribs to be narrower and closer together. carpentry that can manufacture?
mariedal: [citat] Thank you, seems to match. Good in that case.
fribygg: Sure works. I would probably have chosen a cheap screw like Jula's art 014443 600 pieces, 5x80mm for 269 SEK, they should work for the entire staircase and it's convenient, cheap, and quick to choose a dimension that is adequate for the whole construction.