Deck construction?

[Bowman]

Thanks for the tip. I'll check that out.
Keep in mind that what is super easy for some to learn is considerably harder for others…

It is a fun and good program if you're a bit curious, you learn quickly.
You can get it for free, not a pirate version or anything, but it's a bit tricky to figure out.
It's SketchUp Make 2017.
https://forums.sketchup.com/t/sketchup-make-2017-download-links/74172
Click on:

Preferably choose the English version as it's easier to learn through guides, etc. from www.
You can use this without a license, but you need to click on "start using SketchUp" instead of "free pro trial, etc."
Even after 30 days.
Good luck!

To TS, following with excitement as I'm working on making a similar patio as well.
I don't quite have your SketchUp skills, but you learn

 

[Krille-72]

It takes a bit of tinkering before you get into it, but once you get over the first hurdle, it becomes fun to model in SketchUp. There is a web-based free version. You can become as detailed as you want, here are bolts for the screw rule against the basement wall.
[image]

But what I'm grappling with now is the sizing of the roofed part, which might be enclosed with glass at a later date. On Svenskt Trä, I find that everything, including the entire deck, has to be built in glulam... I'm not quite sure there.

In the picture, it's 95x95 posts with a 45x195 beam on top. I was thinking of using 45x170 with c/c1200 to lay the plastic sheets on. Maybe I need to go up to 190mm on the beam?

[image]

Incredible how neat and detailed the drawing is. I really need to tackle that when time allows. I've been embarrassed about my hand-drawn sketches for 20 years (I promise. They're a disaster), so people would surely be surprised if I managed to produce sketches as neat as that.

Regarding your question about posts and beams, I don't see how large the span of the beam is. It's not that it won't hold with 45x195 on the beam, but if the span is too large, the 195 will sag over the years. From that perspective, glulam is superior.
If you're going to enclose up to the beam, I would recommend treated glulam beams as the top beam.

 

[Semiproffset]

It's a fun and good program if you're a bit curious, you'll learn quickly.
You can get it for free, not a pirated version or anything, but it's a bit tricky to figure out.
It's SketchUp Make 2017.
[link]
Click on:
[image]
Preferably choose the English version as it's easier to learn through guides, etc. from the www.
You can use this without a license, but you have to click on "start using Sketchup" instead of "free pro trial etc."
Even after 30 days.
Good luck!

To TS, following with excitement as I'm working on a similar deck as well.
I don't quite have your SketchUp skills, but you learn

Great, now I don't have to sit in the web version!

A few tips that go a long way in SketchUp.

• Always start drawing on the baseline (red axis)
• Model parts individually as their own components and then assemble them into the whole
• Learn the "move/copy" & "rotate" tool thoroughly. (it's with move that you can make continuous copies at x measure or x number at a given measure. Fence posts, or decking boards, for example.) Very useful especially in deck modeling.

Good tutorial for multiplying and dividing:

 

[Bowman]

Great, now I don't have to sit in the web version!

A few tips that go a long way in SketchUp.

• Always start drawing on the baseline (red axis)
• Model the parts separately as their own components and then assemble them into the whole
• Learn the "move/copy" & "rotate" tool properly. (it is with move that you can make continuous copies at x measurements or x number at a given measurement. Fence posts, or decking boards, for example.) Very useful especially in deck modeling.

Good tutorial for multiply and divide: [media]

Great tips, a groundwork for creating components (or downloading them from 3D warehouse and adjusting them) then using move and move+copy. I've just gotten to that point, and it goes easier and faster.
What I'm still struggling with a bit is getting everything to stick together, but there is surely an easy solution to "glue" things together when you figure it out.

 

[Krille-72]

It's a fun and good program if you're a little curious, you'll learn quickly.
You can get it for free, no pirate version or anything, but it's a bit tricky to figure out.
It's SketchUp Make 2017.
[link]
Click on:
[image]
Choose the English version as it's easier to learn through guides, etc. from the web.
You can use this without a license, but you have to click on "start using Sketchup" instead of "free pro trial etc."
Even after 30 days.
Good luck!

To TS, following with interest as I am working on making a similar deck too.
I don't quite have your Sketchup skills, but you learn

Thanks for the tip. Will definitely check this out. Got a bit nervous right away when you said you haven't reached the same skills as Ts...

 

[Semiproffset]

Incredible how beautiful and detailed the drawing is. I will definitely get on that when I have time. I've been embarrassed by my hand-drawn sketches for 20 years (I swear. It's a disaster) so people would be surprised if I managed to produce such beautiful sketches.

Regarding your question about posts and beams, I don't see how large the span is on the beam. It's not that it won't hold with 45x195 for the beam, but if the span is too large, the 195 will sag over the years. From that perspective, glulam is superior.
If you are going to glaze up to the beam, I would recommend pressure-treated glulam beams as the beam.

The span between the posts is about 3500mm. I want as few posts as possible to be able to have openable glass sections. But as you say, the span is probably too large. Glulam and thicker posts (120x120mm). But then I probably need to use separate footings for the posts?

 

[Bowman]

Thanks for the tip. I will definitely check this out. Got a bit sweaty right away when you wrote that you haven't reached the same skills as Ts…

But I only started fiddling a couple of days ago. If you're curious and have basic computer skills, you learn. Then you can choose how meticulous you want to be, it’s a bit about how you are as a person, but it's easy to get lost in the details with

I did work on this several years ago though and made drawings of a knife sharpener, so I remember a bit actually.

 

[Semiproffset]

Good tips, a groundwork to create components (or download them from 3D warehouse and adjust them) then you use move and move+copy. I've just gotten there, then it goes easier and faster.
What I'm still struggling with a bit is getting everything to stick together, but there is surely an easy solution to "glue" things together when you figure it out.

You do that with Group (select all, right-click and make Group). Then you can move the entire group.

The same if you want to have several boards in different versions. You make a base board, e.g. a decking board and make it a component. Then you can copy it and right-click and choose make unique. Then you can change length etc. on it without the first one changing.

 

[Krille-72]

The span between the posts is about 3500mm. I want as few posts as possible to allow for opening glass sections. But as you say, the span is probably too large. Laminated beams and thicker posts (120x120mm). But then I'll probably need to use separate footings for the posts?

If it's 3500mm, the best would be laminated beams. Check what size of beam you need and then determine the post. 95x95 posts should work. See if you can find pressure-treated posts in laminated wood. I actually don't know at the moment if they exist. The risk of laminated posts warping is significantly less. Or you can buy laminated posts and paint them.

 

[Bowman]

You do that with Group (right-click and make Group). Then you can move the entire group.

Same if you want to have multiple boards in different versions. You make a baseboard, e.g., a decking board and make it into a component. Then you can copy it and right-click and choose make unique. Then you can change length etc. on it without the first one changing.

Yes, I'm familiar with those things, but I was thinking more about when you place a component or group against something else and want them to align with each other. You can fiddle with the mouse etc., but there’s probably a function to get things "on face" kind of.

 

[Semiproffset]

Yes I'm aware of those things, was thinking more about when you place a component or group against something else and want them to align with each other. You can tweak with the mouse, etc., but there's surely a function to get things "on face" kind of

Oh, yes when you use the move tool it's easiest to grab the edge or a corner of the object itself. Then you drag it to the line/face/corner you want it to snap to.

 

[Bowman]

Well, when you use the move tool, it's easiest to grab the edge or a corner of the object itself. Then you drag it to the line/surface/corner you want it to snap to.

Ah, great, I'll try it out with that.

 

[Semiproffset]

If it's 3500mm, it'll be best with glulam beams. Check what size beam you need and then decide on the post. 95x95 posts should work. See if you can find treated posts in glulam. I actually don't know at the moment if they exist. The risk of glulam posts warping is significantly lower. Or you could buy glulam posts and paint them.

I've now made some progress in the construction. (Poured the concrete footings last fall) and set the carrying beams 45x190. I reconsidered a bit and chose 45x170 as screw joists and set them at cc 597mm On top of this, I chose to lay 28x120 decking after all.

The posts for the trellis will be 90x90 glulam. I will paint them black, so I don't want them treated. For the sunroom section, I chose 115x115 glulam posts, not treated either due to painting. I will also use glulam for the top rail, 50x220 is the plan. The measurements between the posts will be pretty much exactly 3400mm to maximize my existing building permit.

Those who have come by and looked ask if it's okay to crawl under my deck if the Russians attack.

The glass sections will come later, but I'm planning to buy sliding sections from Skånska Byggvaror to fit the measurement.

@Krille-72 & @scorp1on What do you think about the structural integrity of it? I would be upset if I under-dimensioned and it starts to sag..

 

[Semiproffset]

I have now made some progress with the construction. (Poured the foundation footings last fall) and set the beams 45x190. I rethought a bit and chose 45x170 as joists and set them at cc 597mm On this, I ultimately decided to lay 28x120 decking.

The posts for the trellis will be 90x90 glulam. I plan to paint them black so I don't want them pressure-treated. For the sunroom section, I chose 115x115 glulam posts, also not pressure-treated due to painting. I will also use glulam for the beam, 50x220 is the plan. The distance between the posts will be approximately 3400mm to maximize my existing building permit.

Does anyone have any tips on where I can calculate what dimension of glulam beam I need for the span of 3400mm? The roof on the patio will have about a 6-degree slope and be around 30m2 in size.

 

[roli]

At Moelven, you can register and gain access to web-based dimensioning.

https://www.moelven.com/se/produkter-och-tjanster/allt-om-limtra/dimensioneringshjalp/