9,307 views ·
28 replies
9k views
28 replies
Basement wall, how to renovate
Do you mean that I should cast the entire wall with concrete?
The thought has crossed my mind, but it's also a real heavy-duty job. Just building a form that can withstand it is at least as much work as installing the cembrit panels.
I mount the panels on studs that are set up first. That way, I get a completely smooth and even wall. My initial thought was to mount them with spacers against the existing wall. But as mentioned, it will be difficult to make it even, it will be hard to install, and the panels need to be mounted with screws every 20 cm. It simply won't work well. I will explore the possibility of using steel studs that are 27mm. Then it will extend about 35-40 mm out from the outermost point of the existing wall. I think I can live with that
The thought has crossed my mind, but it's also a real heavy-duty job. Just building a form that can withstand it is at least as much work as installing the cembrit panels.
I mount the panels on studs that are set up first. That way, I get a completely smooth and even wall. My initial thought was to mount them with spacers against the existing wall. But as mentioned, it will be difficult to make it even, it will be hard to install, and the panels need to be mounted with screws every 20 cm. It simply won't work well. I will explore the possibility of using steel studs that are 27mm. Then it will extend about 35-40 mm out from the outermost point of the existing wall. I think I can live with that
The question is how sturdy the mold needs to be if you can accept casting, say, 5dm at a time. The downside is that it might not be so cheap if you don't have decent casting boards. If you're going to tile, OSB should suffice.S Snickerick said:
If you frame as you mentioned, it might be good to avoid the risk of cracks at the panel joints.
Well, I have tested the variant with casting concrete. It works, but it requires a very stable mold, and as mentioned, it's quite a bit of work, especially when you get up a bit and particularly the last bit up towards the ceiling.
Right now the big question is whether I can find any suitable studs that don't add much depth. A steel stud of about 25mm would be perfect. Arranging a mounting point in the middle if needed is no big deal.
Right now the big question is whether I can find any suitable studs that don't add much depth. A steel stud of about 25mm would be perfect. Arranging a mounting point in the middle if needed is no big deal.
M
Marcussjogren
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 3 081 posts
Marcussjogren
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 3,081 posts
They are not meant to be completely dry either. They are, like root cellars, made to be somewhat cool and damp.H heimlaga said:
Now it will probably be so that I put boards on all "internal walls", and on the outer walls I will either remove all the plaster, scrape out the "joints" and fill them, then we'll see if I plaster, or settle with just repointing. The stones that appeared when they were thoroughly cleaned are really nice. It's a shame to hide them behind a lot of plaster.
One of my first projects I shared on this forum was about basement walls. This is how I handled the interior walls, and if I hadn't had completely crumbled lightweight concrete against all the outer parts, I would have done the same for the exterior.H henkeson said:
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threa...egg-enbart-vaeggar-som-aer-mot-insida.388893/
Thanks for the info. I'm considering the same frame solution, but with fiber cement boards. Should work well against exterior walls.D Davion said:
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