Hello
I have a house that is over 100 years old. The basement has a foundation in natural stone. In the basement, the plaster is starting to fall off the walls, in the form of sand, mostly.
So I'm thinking about how to fix the whole thing.
One option is to remove all the plaster, clean the stones thoroughly so they are clean. Then apply a lime base and lime plaster. But that's a huge job, and it's a raw basement, meant to become a boiler room. I want it to be clean and reasonably nice, but don't want to spend half a lifetime renovating it. There are other things to do as well
So I have wondered if there are any alternatives. Some form of sheet material or something similar that could be put up. But I haven't found anything.
Anyone have any tips on how to fix this in the simplest, most efficient way?
The goals are a couple of things, to make it "dust-free", meaning a surface that doesn't leave a lot of dust, sand, and dirt, and reasonably bright. A fresh basement feeling, simply.
I have a house that is over 100 years old. The basement has a foundation in natural stone. In the basement, the plaster is starting to fall off the walls, in the form of sand, mostly.
So I'm thinking about how to fix the whole thing.
One option is to remove all the plaster, clean the stones thoroughly so they are clean. Then apply a lime base and lime plaster. But that's a huge job, and it's a raw basement, meant to become a boiler room. I want it to be clean and reasonably nice, but don't want to spend half a lifetime renovating it. There are other things to do as well
So I have wondered if there are any alternatives. Some form of sheet material or something similar that could be put up. But I haven't found anything.
Anyone have any tips on how to fix this in the simplest, most efficient way?
The goals are a couple of things, to make it "dust-free", meaning a surface that doesn't leave a lot of dust, sand, and dirt, and reasonably bright. A fresh basement feeling, simply.
Hi,
if you need some kinds of panels, make sure to get ones made of inorganic material; Cembrit for example.
They are sold in most department stores, make sure to attach them with glue/screws suitable for the purpose. These panels or their equivalent are durable fiber cement boards that can be painted with plaster/sockel/chalk and paint that allow moisture migration.
Personally, I would have plastered up with a "moderately thick" layer with B or C mortar, would have sacrificed a couple of evenings for it, and my wallet would have appreciated it more. I would also have made sure to achieve a nice texture on the wall.
At the same time, it would have been a perfect opportunity for that audiobook or P3 Dokumentär?
if you need some kinds of panels, make sure to get ones made of inorganic material; Cembrit for example.
They are sold in most department stores, make sure to attach them with glue/screws suitable for the purpose. These panels or their equivalent are durable fiber cement boards that can be painted with plaster/sockel/chalk and paint that allow moisture migration.
Personally, I would have plastered up with a "moderately thick" layer with B or C mortar, would have sacrificed a couple of evenings for it, and my wallet would have appreciated it more. I would also have made sure to achieve a nice texture on the wall.
At the same time, it would have been a perfect opportunity for that audiobook or P3 Dokumentär?
Thanks for the tip. However, this will take a lot more than two evenings. That's the thing. Several evenings will be needed just to remove what's necessary to start with. Then clean the wall so the new plaster can adhere. I've learned that lime plaster is what's needed. First, a lime base coat that's brushed on, and only on the granite. The plaster apparently doesn't adhere to the granite because it's not an absorbent material. Then apply the plaster.
If it was just plastering the wall, it would be a piece of cake.
Audiobooks are always playing in the headphones, unless there's something good on the radio
I'll check out the records, but I guess I’ll end up with the plaster in the end anyway.
If it was just plastering the wall, it would be a piece of cake.
Audiobooks are always playing in the headphones, unless there's something good on the radio
I'll check out the records, but I guess I’ll end up with the plaster in the end anyway.
I now see that Cembrit costs 250:-/sqm at K-rauta, and they are usually far from the cheapest. But still, it is clearly on par with the cost of plastering. It will definitely take at least one bag of plaster per square meter, probably more. So it might even be cheaper with Cembrit.
Hmmm, this was a bit of what I was looking for, but never really believed I would find. Now I have to start considering.
What are the disadvantages if I simply mounted Cembrit boards outside the foundation wall in the basement?
I need to find a good way to attach them of course, but that shouldn't be a big problem I hope. Screwing them on with plastic spacers is probably the solution.
Now I've really got something to think about.
Hmmm, this was a bit of what I was looking for, but never really believed I would find. Now I have to start considering.
What are the disadvantages if I simply mounted Cembrit boards outside the foundation wall in the basement?
I need to find a good way to attach them of course, but that shouldn't be a big problem I hope. Screwing them on with plastic spacers is probably the solution.
Now I've really got something to think about.
Nice that you got something to think about, I work myself at the department store you mentioned, but that's another story.
Plastic spacers or steel studs work well, measure the number of square meters and do the math.
Even though I'm cocky and say that I would plaster, cembrit is a great comfortable alternative. If you extend with 25mm spacers, you've extended about 35mm, which isn't so bad?
Plastic spacers or steel studs work well, measure the number of square meters and do the math.
Even though I'm cocky and say that I would plaster, cembrit is a great comfortable alternative. If you extend with 25mm spacers, you've extended about 35mm, which isn't so bad?
Aha, there you go
The advantages as I see it with installing panels are several
1. I avoid the huge task of knocking down all the old plaster and cleaning the granite.
2. It's a simple and straightforward job to put up the panels, which gives quick results.
3. I get nice flat walls that are easy to use and keep clean.
I considered metal studs, but it felt a bit crazy considering moisture, etc., but maybe that's not a problem? It would be great if there were metal studs that don't build more than 25mm, but I assume there aren't, right?
What do you use for spacers when installing it as baseboard cladding?
K-Rauta is the furthest away from me. I have Beijer, Hornbach, Bauhaus, and Byggmax much closer. So it almost always ends up being one of them first.
The advantages as I see it with installing panels are several
1. I avoid the huge task of knocking down all the old plaster and cleaning the granite.
2. It's a simple and straightforward job to put up the panels, which gives quick results.
3. I get nice flat walls that are easy to use and keep clean.
I considered metal studs, but it felt a bit crazy considering moisture, etc., but maybe that's not a problem? It would be great if there were metal studs that don't build more than 25mm, but I assume there aren't, right?
What do you use for spacers when installing it as baseboard cladding?
K-Rauta is the furthest away from me. I have Beijer, Hornbach, Bauhaus, and Byggmax much closer. So it almost always ends up being one of them first.
The advantages clearly outweigh the disadvantages, in time and effort. Also fits perfectly in utility spaces.
I don't have all the specs in front of me but check
http://www.cembrit.se/invaendigt/cembrit-multi-force/
Further down the page, there are installation instructions.
How does it look on the outside, any moisture pushing in, drained?
I don't have all the specs in front of me but check
http://www.cembrit.se/invaendigt/cembrit-multi-force/
Further down the page, there are installation instructions.
How does it look on the outside, any moisture pushing in, drained?
Yes, there is moisture rising in the foundation, from below/outside. The house is over 100 years old and hasn't been re-drained for a long time, if ever.
I had another slightly forbidden thought, and that was to use pressure-treated wood. It should work when it comes to moisture at least. But how about the risk of mold?
I had another slightly forbidden thought, and that was to use pressure-treated wood. It should work when it comes to moisture at least. But how about the risk of mold?
Aha, Multi-force, that's exactly the board that is available at byggmax for 170:-/square meter.michfris said:
It feels like they made it just for me.
I'm heading out now and will take the opportunity to stop by byggmax and take a look at it.Checked the installation instructions too, this feels absolutely spot on, exactly what I was looking for. I realized, however, that it might be a bit tricky where there are basement windows. But I conclude that if I put these on all "inner walls," that will be the larger part of the work, and then I can still focus on plastering only the outer wall, that might be best, as it takes the most moisture too. So it's a good compromise, one might say
World-class!
Cut with an angle grinder and a disc for concrete, cuts like butter. Or with a jigsaw with a blade for the purpose.
Do it outdoors though, it will create an insane amount of dust.
Don't use pressure-treated timber indoors, it's not recommended plus it will decay in a foreseeable time.
Cut with an angle grinder and a disc for concrete, cuts like butter. Or with a jigsaw with a blade for the purpose.
Do it outdoors though, it will create an insane amount of dust.
Don't use pressure-treated timber indoors, it's not recommended plus it will decay in a foreseeable time.
Ok, thanks for the tips.
They write in the assembly instructions that you can use regular wood tools, and recommend Festool TS55 with rail and vacuum, and state that it provides a good working environment. But it wears out the blade quite a bit, doesn't it?
They write in the assembly instructions that you can use regular wood tools, and recommend Festool TS55 with rail and vacuum, and state that it provides a good working environment. But it wears out the blade quite a bit, doesn't it?
Not necessarily, the material is not hard like concrete but more... Possibly hard... Difficult to compare to anything. I used a concrete cutting disc because it was the closest at hand. If they suggest something else, follow their instructions.
I now also see that the price difference between Byggmax and K-rauta was not so large, and that K-rauta has a few more dimensions. For example, 1200 width, and 12mm thick, which Byggmax does not have. But then the sheets will probably be so heavy that one cannot handle them, I guess.
If you can sacrifice 50mm, I would cast with concrete after you have removed some plaster. But that's maybe because I imagine the wall so uneven that the boards will be difficult to get to lie evenly.