Steel studs for sill, but otherwise wooden studs

[capybara]

I am going to build a greenhouse with loose timber and would like to use a steel stud as a sill because the floor will often be wet.

1. Do steel studs work well as a sill?
2. Can you have vertical wall studs in wood that are attached to a steel sill? I have no experience with steel studs, so I don't know how to attach them.
3. If so, what type of steel stud should be used, are there different types?

Thanks in advance!

 

[fribygg]

I don't think using metal track as a sill is a good idea for a load-bearing wall. Doesn't the stability of a wall with metal track as a sill rely on the wall being sheathed on both sides?

 

[cpalm]

Any reason not to place the sill on a base, for example, in bricks traditionally?
You'd like to get the sill up 30 cm above ground level to avoid problems.

 

[capybara]

Any reason not to place the sill on a plinth, e.g. in brick, in the traditional way? You'd ideally want to get the sill up 30 cm above ground level to avoid problems.

It's mostly because I'm comfortable building with wood, I think it looks nicer than, for example, leca blocks and is probably cheaper/easier than brick.

 

[capybara]

I don't think a metal stud as a sill is a good idea for a load-bearing wall.
Isn't the stability in a wall with a metal stud as a sill based on the wall being sheathed on both sides?

I don't actually know, those are the kind of things I would like to get answers to The idea is that about 60cm from the sill and up, it should be a sheathed wall with insulation. Then the windows start.

 

[myrstack]

What do you think of as a sill?

A normal steel track, if that is what you're thinking (e.g., a NORGIPS SK Track), is quite different from a wooden sill. Firstly, the advantage of such a track is that it is perfectly straight and quick to install for its intended indoor use, but to bear loads as a sill normally should (at least distribute to a substrate), a steel track can only do this if the substrate is firm. Classically, this is achieved by having each wall stud stand on a track on a concrete slab or atop a wooden beam that distributes loads into a joist. If you intend to use such a steel track as a sill, you need to prepare a substrate that can absorb your loads.

Another thing to consider is that a steel track/steel stud only has a light electroplating that at most can handle light moisture exposure. For outdoor use, I suspect that the zinc will be eaten away quickly.

If you're thinking of something more durable than such a steel track as I assumed, my comments may be irrelevant.

 

[capybara]

What do you imagine as a sill?

A normal steel stud, if that's what you are thinking of (e.g. a Track NORGIPS SK), is quite different from a wooden sill. First and foremost, the advantage of such a stud is that it is perfectly straight and quick to install for its intended indoor use, but to take loads as a sill normally should (at least distribute to a substrate), a steel track can only handle if the substrate is solid. Typically by having each wall stud resting on a track on a concrete slab, or on a wooden stud that distributes loads into a floor structure. If you're going to use such a steel track as a sill, you’ll need to fix a substrate that absorbs your loads.

Another thing to consider is that a steel track/steel stud only has a light electro-galvanization that can at most withstand light moisture exposure. For outdoor use, I suspect that the zinc will quickly corrode.

If you are thinking of something more durable than such a steel track as I imagined, perhaps my comments are irrelevant.

It will be placed on a concrete footing on a compacted bearing layer, possibly with some sill insulation in between. Is there a more durable type of steel stud, such as stainless steel, made for outdoor use?

 

[Rickard.]

It will be placed on a concrete slab on a compacted bearing layer, possibly with some sill insulation in between. Is there any more durable type of metal stud, like stainless steel, made for outdoor use?

There are steel sills for exterior walls that are hot-dip galvanized and sturdier, but I suspect they might not exist for thin walls, although Google can probably answer that. They are called exterior wall rails.

You should have some sort of sill insulation.

 

[Liljeros]

I would still advocate building it in leca, building only 2 layers is a very suitable first project to a great extent. You will still splash water on the inside, and since it's a greenhouse, you won't have any roof overhang to protect the outside. It's not a good place for a framed wooden wall.