Planning to install a pocket frame in my extension, but want to frame the interior wall before laying the floor. Should the pocket frame be attached on top of the floor or directly to the concrete slab? I was thinking of adding a couple of cm when framing for the frame in height when framing for the opening. Wouldn't it be the wrong height for the door if the frame doesn't sit on top of the floor, or is there some allowance for adjustment when attaching the door?
Then I'm wondering if anyone has changed the depth of a pocket frame. The one I have is 150, but I would probably want it to be 122 instead, as it would make for an unnecessarily thick wall. However, I've already bought the frame and can't return it. If changing the depth isn't possible, then it'll simply have to be a 150 wall.
Then I'm wondering if anyone has changed the depth of a pocket frame. The one I have is 150, but I would probably want it to be 122 instead, as it would make for an unnecessarily thick wall. However, I've already bought the frame and can't return it. If changing the depth isn't possible, then it'll simply have to be a 150 wall.
If you are going to have the same flooring on both sides and no threshold, you should install the frame on top of the floor, at least if your frame is the same as the one I used.
Yes, it will be the same flooring on both sides, I've seen some pictures of the pocket frame and it seems screwed directly against the upper part of the stud, so no frame screw, I would have preferred to build the wall before the floor, can I add a couple of cm to the opening, it should be possible to adjust the door a bit vertically with the door's upper mounting? Or how precise does it need to be?Rickard. said:
I've only installed one pocket frame and it wasn't a standard installation, so I'm not an expert on this, but you're absolutely right that frame screws are not used. I made the opening higher and longer "backward" and used spacers when I finally screwed it in place. I wanted the fixed side of the frame to be flush against the stud, so that determined the door's position.E Eryl said:
I seem to remember crafting my spacers from scrap wood, but bought ones or wedges would work just fine if you prefer.
Is it clear from the assembly instructions whether it should be mounted at the height of the finished floor or not? The pocket frame I installed before Christmas (from Swedoor) had a bottom piece that was screwed into the floor, and I had to install a support on the concrete slab to reach the same height as the finished parquet on either side of the wall. Then the "inner edge" wasn't screwed in according to the instructions, but I placed two screws against the wall (very tight installation) through the side piece. Reducing the "width" from 150 to 122 mm depends on the frame design. In my case, there's a steel profile/rail that's screwed into the top piece, allowing for the thickness of a plasterboard on each side of the frame, so it could be reduced by 26 mm, but then the fitting around the door gap would also need adjustment, as well as the opposing "frame" that the door closes against on both sides since it's grooved for the door leaf in the middle. That frame piece is in lacquered MDF, so it would require care when sawing and repainting all the parts.