I have an exterior wall made of plastered LECA blocks (approximately 9m long).
The wall will remain exposed, facing an uninsulated outdoor space with a roof. (water/snow can enter the space)
I was planning to insulate the wall with 2 x 100 mm or 3 x 70mm - with something.
(foam plastic or mineral wool/rock wool or...)
On the outside of the insulation, the wall should have appropriate protection.
What type of insulation should one choose?
How do you attach the insulation to the LECA blocks?
What should the wall be clad with?
The wall will remain exposed, facing an uninsulated outdoor space with a roof. (water/snow can enter the space)
I was planning to insulate the wall with 2 x 100 mm or 3 x 70mm - with something.
(foam plastic or mineral wool/rock wool or...)
On the outside of the insulation, the wall should have appropriate protection.
What type of insulation should one choose?
How do you attach the insulation to the LECA blocks?
What should the wall be clad with?
My tip is 145 + 45 glass-/stone wool, with vertical studs 45x145 inside, attached with construction fittings, horizontal 45x45-95, asfaboard, thin air gap-forming nailing battens 3-10 mm, and finally a classic wood panel with lath battens.
All outer edges must be sealed with studs so that not a single hole or gap larger than 5x5 mm exists towards the insulation to prevent rodents from pulverizing the wool. If cover battens are used, rodent tape must be used (both at the top and bottom).
Robust and classic variant.
All outer edges must be sealed with studs so that not a single hole or gap larger than 5x5 mm exists towards the insulation to prevent rodents from pulverizing the wool. If cover battens are used, rodent tape must be used (both at the top and bottom).
Robust and classic variant.
Isn't it risky to place wood against stone?
I have no control over how moisture can affect the construction.
I can imagine that the "uterum" (an airy cold storage room - mainly below ground level) can contribute to increased moisture against the wall. (but maybe it doesn't matter?)
I have no control over how moisture can affect the construction.
I can imagine that the "uterum" (an airy cold storage room - mainly below ground level) can contribute to increased moisture against the wall. (but maybe it doesn't matter?)
Should you place tar paper or similar material between the wood stud and the plaster outside the lightweight concrete block?
By building brackets, do you mean an angle bracket? Should it be reinforced (bump in the middle)?
How many brackets should you have on each stud? (Is one at the top, one at the bottom, and one in the middle enough? - height about 220-230 cm). Is it sufficient to place the bracket on one side of the stud?
Can you manage with regular timber, or should it be impregnated timber?
What type of screw/nail do you use in lightweight concrete?
Is it always CC60 that applies?
Do horizontal studs not need to be screwed with brackets?
"45x45-95" What does 45-95 mean? (Is it to make it easier to find the stud with asphalt boards when using 95?)
I'm not very knowledgeable, but doesn't the nail batten need to be thicker? And is windproofing paper not needed?
What is a batten list?
If instead of a stud system, you glue a cellular plastic insulation directly onto the plaster, would that be sufficient?
By building brackets, do you mean an angle bracket? Should it be reinforced (bump in the middle)?
How many brackets should you have on each stud? (Is one at the top, one at the bottom, and one in the middle enough? - height about 220-230 cm). Is it sufficient to place the bracket on one side of the stud?
Can you manage with regular timber, or should it be impregnated timber?
What type of screw/nail do you use in lightweight concrete?
Is it always CC60 that applies?
Do horizontal studs not need to be screwed with brackets?
"45x45-95" What does 45-95 mean? (Is it to make it easier to find the stud with asphalt boards when using 95?)
I'm not very knowledgeable, but doesn't the nail batten need to be thicker? And is windproofing paper not needed?
What is a batten list?
If instead of a stud system, you glue a cellular plastic insulation directly onto the plaster, would that be sufficient?
Should you place building paper or similar between the wooden beam and the plaster on the outside of the lecastone?
You can do that, it won't hurt but it's not necessary on a wall.
By building connectors, do you mean an angle bracket? Yes. Should it be reinforced (bump in the middle?) No.
How many angles should you have on each beam? (is one at the top, one at the bottom, and one in the middle enough? - height approx. 220-230 cm). 3 should be enough if they are big/thick and fastened properly in the lecastone. Is it sufficient to place the angle on one side of the beam? It will be better and more stable if placed on both sides, but probably not absolutely necessary.
Is ordinary wood enough, or should it be impregnated wood? Ordinary wood.
Which screws/nails do you use in the lecastone? There are probably plenty to choose from. Long (approx. 60 - 100 mm) and thick (the holes in the brackets dictate, either several thinner ones or 1 - 2 thick ones like a lag bolt), hot-dip galvanized or stainless, (if the brackets are hot-dip galvanized, the screws should be too).
Is it always CC60 that applies? No, it's optional but cc 60 with 45 mm beams gives a spacing between beams measured for all insulation boards. Cc 120 also works.
Lying beams don't need to be screwed with angle brackets? No, they are just 45 mm thick and nailed or screwed into the lower standing beams.
"45x45-95" What does 45-95 mean? (Is it to make it easier to hit the beam with the asphalt boards when using 95?) Exactly. A 45x95 lying flat is more stable to nail into with practically no risk of missing the beam. Additionally, it's not as critical that the joint is exactly in the middle of the beam. However, don't forget to increase cc 60/120 if you have beams wider than 45 mm.
Not so knowledgeable, but does the spacer batten not need to be thicker? No, not if it lies on top of the underlying horizontal beams. And wind paper isn't needed? No, not with asfaltoards.
What is a list batten? It's for instance a 21x45. Then there are also planed and chamfered variants for "more elegant city houses". The opposite is a lock batten which is wider like a 21x95. I think list batten is nicer and above all provides a rodent-proof facade, (and also more windproof), since the panel boards sit tightly with only 1 - 3 mm gaps.
If instead of the beam system you glue a foam insulation directly onto the plaster, would that be enough? Someone else should answer this.
You can do that, it won't hurt but it's not necessary on a wall.
By building connectors, do you mean an angle bracket? Yes. Should it be reinforced (bump in the middle?) No.
How many angles should you have on each beam? (is one at the top, one at the bottom, and one in the middle enough? - height approx. 220-230 cm). 3 should be enough if they are big/thick and fastened properly in the lecastone. Is it sufficient to place the angle on one side of the beam? It will be better and more stable if placed on both sides, but probably not absolutely necessary.
Is ordinary wood enough, or should it be impregnated wood? Ordinary wood.
Which screws/nails do you use in the lecastone? There are probably plenty to choose from. Long (approx. 60 - 100 mm) and thick (the holes in the brackets dictate, either several thinner ones or 1 - 2 thick ones like a lag bolt), hot-dip galvanized or stainless, (if the brackets are hot-dip galvanized, the screws should be too).
Is it always CC60 that applies? No, it's optional but cc 60 with 45 mm beams gives a spacing between beams measured for all insulation boards. Cc 120 also works.
Lying beams don't need to be screwed with angle brackets? No, they are just 45 mm thick and nailed or screwed into the lower standing beams.
"45x45-95" What does 45-95 mean? (Is it to make it easier to hit the beam with the asphalt boards when using 95?) Exactly. A 45x95 lying flat is more stable to nail into with practically no risk of missing the beam. Additionally, it's not as critical that the joint is exactly in the middle of the beam. However, don't forget to increase cc 60/120 if you have beams wider than 45 mm.
Not so knowledgeable, but does the spacer batten not need to be thicker? No, not if it lies on top of the underlying horizontal beams. And wind paper isn't needed? No, not with asfaltoards.
What is a list batten? It's for instance a 21x45. Then there are also planed and chamfered variants for "more elegant city houses". The opposite is a lock batten which is wider like a 21x95. I think list batten is nicer and above all provides a rodent-proof facade, (and also more windproof), since the panel boards sit tightly with only 1 - 3 mm gaps.
If instead of the beam system you glue a foam insulation directly onto the plaster, would that be enough? Someone else should answer this.
You can attach EPS insulation with suitable adhesive...and foam in the joints to avoid gaps!A Albireo said:
If you want it to hold a little better see Jackon
You can coat it with acrylic resin plaster like painting! Very thinly
)Theoretically no, but the idea with plastering is that it helps the air between the leca blocks to remain more still. (Still air provides better insulation.)A Ahm.s said:
If you can achieve the same coverage with "suitable adhesive" for the EPS insulation, the plaster adds nothing.
(Spontaneously, it doesn't seem simple - whether plaster or adhesive is cheaper - I don't know.)
EPS adhesive won't need the same coverage if there's plaster on the wall.