Building Materials and Construction Technology
nimhed: [citat] Hmm, strange since they have a price guarantee if you find a lower price at a competitor. Competitor's price -10%. Is Vellinge a competitor to Trelleborg? :crysmile:
Wallin1985: Hello! I wanted to see if there's any builder (or similar) here on the forum who could provide some input/help regarding the construction of a staircase that I am going to build. Background: We are in the process of building a pool, and for this, we will be purchasing a pool cover. To hide the pool cover when it's parked (when rolled to the side, next to the pool), we wish to roll it under our
Griddy: Thanks for the response, The flooring currently there was installed by the previous owner and is an Ikea floor. We have temporarily removed it, and underneath is a plastic mat (probably original) glued directly to the concrete slab. The baseboard that we tore off was actually molding. There was a sticker on the back. The holes are relatively high up, so I guess they needed something wider to
ErikAlbin: Hello, We are in the process of renovating a 1920s house, and after a complete renovation of the exterior and upper floor, we have now started on the ground floor. We will basically do everything from floor to ceiling, including a new kitchen, changing the heating source, etc. Parts of the ground floor were renovated in the '90s and are in relatively good condition, but two rooms of about 40 sqm
Ken: A 40m2 room done, went well without sawing for the most part, wasn't glued as well everywhere, about 80% could be broken up with a crowbar and a large pry bar. Borrowed an electric planer that worked well to remove the remaining chipboard on the joists, which I will reuse. [bild]
David_Berglund: I have Forestia and when I read their instructions, it actually states that they may be spliced in the field, as Matti wrote.. So that's the answer to that. It also states that they should be laid in a pattern, which I assume refers to overlapping.. So I consider the question answered, and moreover with the answer that gives me the least extra work..
JohanVSF: [citat] Yes, does anyone have experience with how colorfast, for example, Illbruck Akrylfog Pro (LD714) is?
Tjuvkilsbyggare: I have a house with an extension built in 1969. The extension is a basement space with a tiled terrace on top, which is outdoors. The terrace, which is the roof of the basement, is constructed of lightweight concrete beams with cast concrete, in total about 20 cm thick. The whole structure sags slightly (about 20 mm in the middle) with visible cracks in the ceiling and on the tiles above. When it
Villa1949: [citat] Hot-dipped galvanized carriage bolts you can probably find at byggmax in Halmstad.
leifherlin: [citat] My experience from Hornbach is that they have many competent staff members. At Bauhaus, however, you have to search far and wide and still might not find anyone.
Zusgazah: It is 50 mm with threads, then an additional 20 mm before the hook starts, so if you screw it in fully, it should go in 4-5 cm into the roof truss. But maybe it's worth a trip to Bauhaus to avoid falling when you sit down. I guess something substantial is needed when the force pulls in the direction of the screw straight down...
Carl_X: I'm going to rebuild the fence into a trellis. I'll keep the foundations and replace the fence posts. I plan to place the post directly on the foundation with a five-millimeter shim between the post and the foundation. What size should the shim be, the same as the post? The post is 95x95.
ByggaByggahus: We have an entrance that only has a cast concrete slab as a "step." However, we would like to do something similar to the following. As it currently stands, the slab is just gray and boring and is starting to crumble in some places. [bild]
fremax: See Kramlas link, but it seems like 6mm is the minimum. That is probably correct. I myself drill with water-cooled diamond drill bits where the drills are 4mm at the smallest. Best regards, fremax
Rickard.: No, a vapor stop is not a must. The purpose of the vapor stop is to be able to connect the vapor barrier in the adjoining rooms with something because it is impossible to seal the vapor barrier against the back of the waterproofing layer.
cpalm: [citat] No, I didn't mean that you should take the opportunity to redo everything now, but that you should perhaps start thinking today about which method should be used to, for example, replace the sewer pipes when the time comes and do the same with the pipe to the outdoor faucet as a "dress rehearsal." I have only replaced pipes under regular unreinforced and uninsulated basement floors
hi-fi: Hello, do you have any idea what kind of panel this is? It's on a 50-year-old house :)
SLind: [citat] Yes, that was my thought too. Mixed up distance and depth. But it would certainly be an interesting solution if you follow it to the letter… fence post every little over half a meter
Lilllen: I believe this was installed when the house was new in the 40s, but in any case, it's older than 30 years. [bild]
Elknuffo: Thanks wildeside :D Regarding the sliding doors and the risk of movement on the decking, I've read somewhere on this forum that you can break up the decking and add an extra support beam right where the sliding door will be. For increased stability. We'll see if I do that. However, it's a solid foundational construction... Great tip about the base for the walls! I am a "belt and suspenders man,"
Jowes: [citat] No, it probably doesn't. It has spread to under hedges, etc. too. Round up? Cover for several years? Dig out 1-3 meters deep at least 1 meter wider than the area?
ofrivilligvillaägare: Hello First time I'm writing a post here. A tile has fallen off the outer staircase recently and the neighbor's is about to do the same. I'm simply wondering what I need to repair it and prevent more tiles from falling off. Very grateful for help. Please guide me thoroughly, I don’t know anything from before.
HelixFixare: Yes, you are probably guessing right. The deck's own weight is negligible in this context (about 30 kg per meter along the carrier beam, if I include all the timber halfway out to the other carrier beam). The maximum load on this area (1.0 x 0.65 m closest to the house wall) is unlikely to exceed 200 kg. If I attach a 45 mm beam with an 81 mm drilling depth (61 mm effective fixing depth), an
mexitegel: You can fasten the Reglarna and level them so that they are straight and nice - just make sure they are easy to remove. Then you can choose whether you want to plaster with cement mortar A or fill with A46.
MathiasS: I would use, for example, Essve's nylon plug and then an 8mm screw. Then it will hold.
paros: Resuming an old thread. I plan to build a pizza oven using leca blocks with a base of fireproof brick. There were thoughts on this earlier in the thread, what are the current thoughts? The pizza oven will be outdoors, are there any disadvantages with this setup?
Oldhawk: Thank you for the great tips!
Snabelhund: [citat] Thank you very much for the informative response; you're absolutely right, I hadn't thought all the way regarding the changed load points. Based on what you say, I think I'll try to solve a better foundation than the semi-rotted sill supporting the front posts today and maintain the original construction, which has proven to work. The original idea actually came from the fact that the