Building Materials and Construction Technology
Adam Robertsson: [citat] I am part of the Amish community so we'll go with that option.
Frippelindeman: [citat] Hello! Thanks for the quick response! My question might not have been 100% clear. I was mostly wondering if it was a material that prevents the wall from breathing or not, in terms of whether to remove it or not. It's stuck like hell, so if I shouldn't remove it, it can absolutely stay :)
Bombus pratorum: So many dead rats, someone must have put out poison. They have to lie down and die somewhere. I don't believe in that mouse brush. It's plastic bristles. If you don't have toothless rats, they'll easily chew through it. Metal mesh with less than five-millimeter holes in brass or iron is what's needed.
VictorF: [citat] Then it seems like half the wall follows along
Patzie: Just setting the sheet before the facade, it's the "toughest" part because you have to be precise with the measurements so things fit together as planned when the facade and trim come on later.
Elin Samuelsson: [citat] Hi! I'm curious about how you did it and how the result turned out. I'm about to renovate a staircase in a 50s house that looks exactly the same. Would almost think it was my staircase! 😊
Guille: [citat] Yes, it is 2.5 cm thick. Maybe a diamond drill will work. I'll try that. Thanks for the answer!
BosseHansson: Even if it becomes steep, I would say a sturdy staircase is the most important. I would fill it up with foam and cast a staircase. [MEDIA=youtube]ywIZClMNylM[/MEDIA] 105cm deep should allow for 5 steps, the first one directly at the door and ending about 20cm below ground level, giving you a staircase with an incline of about 45 degrees. If you want more foot space on the steps, you can create a
MmeMim: [citat] Thanks! Well documented and great idea shared! :)
Totte_S: If you hang something on it, it is best if the load pulls straight down into the hook so that it does not bend.
sunnis: Hello! I'm in the process of building an outdoor kitchen with lecablocks and have encountered a small issue I would like some help solving. Drawing of what I am trying to build [bild] The construction itself [bild] The problem I've encountered is that the cabinet module that's supposed to be under the built-in grill is wider than the built-in grill. So I need to build a "roof" above the cabinet
crazytok: I will, after tips from the forum, install outdoor gypsum in my fence to make it somewhat soundproof against the neighbor. The fence will thus be double-sided and completely sealed with the help of outdoor gypsum that I mount in the middle of the fence. What I wonder about is if I need any special protection for the gypsum? Or can it handle getting rained on and becoming damp now and then? I plan
Hjobo: Sealing/scraper strip is available for purchase here and there, but only in Black my original strip is White (White solid rubber) Anyone know where it can be bought?
Earplugged: [citat] Thanks, sounds like a reasonable solution 😀
Pierrelu: Hello, Building a garage (10-15°C warm) with a mono-pitched roof at 8 degrees, and have questions about the solution with wind barrier, the air gap in the roof, and framing of the gables. The roof trusses don't reach the gable walls but are 120mm in from the outer edge of the frame. Do I simply frame up to the underside of the roof sheathing and insert insulation to break the thermal bridge
Pierrelu: Yes, they should be aligned as much as possible. A tip is to constantly measure from the end of the rafter to ensure the rows are straight. Preferably, snap a chalk line every 50 cm or so to use as a reference. If it starts to fan out, it won't be fun at the end...
mojjen: [citat] Not sure if I fully understand you, by laying flush with the old one. Option 1 With a glued-on oak piece, I imagine it like the upper step. The board is placed flush with the old one. This way, the old nose is retained, and everything is laid outside. Option 2 The lower step, I cut away the old nose and place a cover piece against the riser. I extend the new step since I still want a
Jogöwa: [citat] Solved it with a sledgehammer and rotary hammer. You won't find straighter lines at home ;) [bild]
z_bumbi: Glue and screw (into the studs) wood panels or ultraboard (for fire rating) onto existing drywall. If possible, screw the holders for the weight plates into the studs or have weight racks on the floor. Weight racks in particular are subjected to a lot of stress. There are home builds with 45x45 studs where weights are rolled in from floor level. Great for benching and bending over the spots. If
Dilato: Buy more than you need, you have a 90-day return policy..
Nybörjar1: [citat] Thanks @Robert-san01, I completely missed them, but they seem to have exactly what I need! I'm not entirely sure what you mean by needing to dig out the slab more than I can to set the form. Do you mean that if I tear away the asphalt and then dig precisely at the edge, I undermine the ground? But won't it get support if, for example, you insert an edge element, or am I thinking
Cerb: [citat] It's wise to run a wall scanner over the wall you're planning to drill into first to avoid mishaps.