Nail board and batten

[Mikael_L]

If you start miter cutting with a circular saw, it gets a bit strange in the corners since the corner board on the wall you are not cutting will get a 15° cut kind of in the wrong direction, so there will be a notch there when you cut that side afterwards.

In theory, you are right, but in practice, it doesn't have to be a major problem. First and foremost, you set the saw depth correctly so you just barely cut through the panel. If you just cut straight across, there will still be a small notch, which you might be able to live with. But if you are a perfectionist, you can "plunge cut" down a little from the corner and stop just before reaching the next corner. And then take the last part with a multi-tool/hand saw/japanese saw/chisel/knife whatever.

I have now done this in 8 corners, and I actually don't really know how I did it, I just sawed and fiddled a bit, and it turned out pretty good anyway.

edit: I have a Festool plunge saw, but didn't even think about using it. It was a 5-meter raw tongue and groove board that I first thoroughly checked was straight. And then cut with a regular hand circular saw. I think I used my Hitachi C6MFA the entire time, and for once the absence of a riving knife was actually a slightly positive thing. The board was screwed with 3 short chipboard screws (4.2x32mm) on the top side. The holes that are left I just paint over. Maybe a tiny dab of outdoor acrylic sealant, ...possibly. I probably tried different tactics since I have no memory of what was "absolutely best."

 

[baljbalj]

10m rails, do they exist? Renting a Festool with a 3m rail, it has a hole at each end, perfect for a drywall screw.
If you angle a Festool ts55 about 14 degrees, it can handle a 49mm panel (e.g., 28 + 21)

No, not a 10m long rail but several connected ones. However, I've never handled a plunge saw so I don't know what it looks like.

Practically speaking, can you angle a Festool both ways? You want the rail to be on the boards that remain, so if it can only be angled one way there might be a problem, meaning the drip edge faces outwards?

 

[baljbalj]

In theory, you're right, but in practice it doesn't need to be a major issue. First and foremost, set the saw depth properly, so you just barely get through the panel. If you just cut straight across, there will still be a small notch, which maybe you can live with. But if you're a perfectionist, you can "plunge cut" down a little from the corner and stop just before you reach the next corner. Then finish the last part with a multi-tool/handsaw/Japanese saw/chisel/knife whatever.

I've done this in 8 corners now, and I don't really know how I did it, I just sawed and fiddled a bit, and it ended up quite good anyway.

edit: I have a Festool plunge saw, but I haven't even thought about using it. Instead, I used a 5-meter raw wood board that I first thoroughly checked for straightness, and then sawed with a regular hand circular saw. I think I used my Hitachi C6MFA the whole time, and for once, the absence of a riving knife was actually somewhat positive. The board was screwed with 3 short chipboard screws (4.2x32mm) on the top side. The holes that result I just paint over. Possibly a tiny bit of outdoor acrylic sealant, ...maybe. I probably tried different tactics because I have no memory of what was "absolutely best."

The knot is outside the underboards, so if I make a cut that goes through the underboards, I will saw 22mm into the knot, which is at 90° to the one I'm cutting, so that will be the last resort.

I've never really used a circular saw, but the one I have weighs 4-5kg and has both a riving knife and blade guard, which are both in the way during a plunge cut. Just holding the saw up against a board while crawling around the house feels heavy when I've only just held it up. And to also remove the riving knife and hold up the blade guard while I plunge down, I'm not sure if I dare to attempt that.

 

[Mikael_L]

Practically speaking, can a Festool be angled in both directions?

No.
It can only be angled like all regular hand-held circular saws, and the rail runs under the saw's table.
So this means you have to screw the rail onto the wall, with the rubber lip exactly where the cut is supposed to be.
Then set the angle, which many choose to 15°, but mathias has recommended 17°
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/fasad/17304-optimal-vinkel-droppnos.html

I myself have dared to go with 15° despite the real expert advice with scientific backing and all, but the house will probably fall apart because of it ...

As mentioned, I didn't even consider using the plunge saw for this task, a 5.4 meter plank is outstanding. OK, if I happened to have two 3-meter rails in my tool inventory, I might have connected them and used them.

There we see the downside of buying oversized tools with capabilities you don't need. You can't lift them and/or dare use them when it really matters.

 

[pbengtsson]

I mean not a 10m long rail, but several connected. I've never held a track saw, so I don't know what it looks like.

Practically speaking, can you tilt a Festool both ways? You want the rail on the boards that remain, so if it can only be tilted one way, it could cause problems, i.e., the drip nose ends up outward?

Now it's starting to get a little OT, sorry, but I'll give a short explanation. It's not hard (false security?) to saw with a track, it is laid on top of the cut (and then attached to the wall with screws at each end), meaning it stays in the wall, then it is removed and moved to continue the cut. You'll understand when you have the gear at home.

This is a lot more convenient than crawling around with a circular saw 30cm above the ground.

If you're unsure, try with a cut a few cm lower than the final result.

But regardless, this is not the first thing you should try with a plunge or circular saw. It can result in serious injuries to yourself, both types of saws can kick back.

If it's interesting, I can create a separate thread on how I usually do with the TS55 and rails in these moments.

 

[estwing]

How do you attach the ridge cap (I think it’s called that, a lying cap or slightly wider that lies under the roof and the cap lath is kind of pushed up against it)?

Does it need a nailing rule behind it just under the sheathing and do you nail in the gap between the bottom boards there as well, or do you attach it to the bottom boards?

Hi. Jumping in and haven’t read everyone’s posts here! Regarding the ridge cap, I usually nail between the bottom boards. Sometimes I nail straight through. Regarding your cracks, it’s not about how it’s set up, but rather that the timber itself is so warped that when you put the cap on, the bottom boards are pressed in and it cracks. This is visible if you’re a skilled carpenter. Sure, it might appear later, but you can tell these cracks will happen if you use certain bottom boards. If not, the crack might already exist in the board.

Regarding how to nail the panel, you set up the bottom boards with 2" nails in a zigzag pattern, meaning alternating sides on the nail battens. When installing the capping, for example, it’s easy to nail between, but with the panel cap, there might be problems sometimes. This is because sometimes the spacing causes boards to end up closer, and when you then drive in the 4" nail, it goes through everything. Sure, it’s wrong, but sometimes it happens, and it still works. I can promise you the whole panel side moves anyway. Everything has its life... we’re talking about wood now.

Lastly, ask the carpenters to replace the cracked one. Doesn’t look good. Then, I think the dimension of the trim is too flimsy. Should have gone up to a thickness of 28 mm and extended a bit more on the upper trim and further down on the vertical trims. Just my opinion...

Hope you’re up for reading through.

Regards, Estwing

 

[baljbalj]

Bevel cutting done!!!!

Rented a Festool plunge saw and 2x3m & 2x1.4m rails. I know it was a bit much but it was difficult to handle 3m rails alone (screw holes are on the edges!, even the sun has spots) so it was nice to start with a 1.4m and then build from there.

Made miters right in the corners (lowered the blade so it went 5 cm on both sides in the corner) and then angled 15° and went a few centimeters from the corner (the blade went in the same track both 15° mitered and straight), going up to a few centimeters before the next corner.

The concern was a bit unfounded, as long as you think it through and especially measure properly where to cut, it was quite easy.

It turned out quite rough (maybe the blade was dull) so I'll have to try using coarse sandpaper before oiling.

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[pbengtsson]

Hope you were satisfied, but as a tip, you don't need that many tracks, it's not a Märklin railway you're building , it's just as easy to move the track with the cut (if you've marked with a chalk line beforehand).

Do you have a picture to upload of the final result?

 

[TJW Johnsson]

Driving a nail right in the middle of the underboard doesn't look sensible, even if the theory might hold. In practice, the underboards are nailed at the edges so that the heads are hidden by the cover board. Depending on how wide the cover is, one or two nails are driven about 1cm from the edge so it doesn't warp, and it often goes through the underboard, but many times this is unavoidable since the underboards are not placed at the same distance everywhere.
It would be interesting to hear if anyone has had problems with nails going through both the cover and the underboard, as I never have.

Then you could consider how it should be nailed at the corner, bargeboards, and around windows by those who say only one nail in the middle. If it's 145 width, the board will move there as well, right? But it doesn't crack. It would be strange with a nail in the middle of all those. There might be some gaps if you do it that way. I have nailed both horizontal 145 and vertical 95-170 widths without cracking. With 45 cover, you drive one in between the underboards. So my advice is to keep an eye on quality and prefer to cull rather than skimp.