Building Materials and Construction Technology
MissAmtör: Hello! Joists with cc600 and a span of 4200 with a supporting fyrskäring in the middle. Notched, sparsely battened with underfloor heating and then chipboard. What type of floor surface can this support? Could you lay tiles or even stone? Thanks in advance!
cpalm: [citat] You might have to chip away some cement to get the lid off, but that's probably quickly fixed if needed. But it has undeniably never needed to be used 🙂
Lejon: I am going to plaster a chimney breast indoors made of some type of lime cement brick, they are white as you can see in the picture. Does anyone know what type of mortar I should use for this and if I need to prime with something first? It’s hard to find any info about this type of brick. /Lejon
husfrid: We have torn down the tension paper from the walls and ceiling of the cottage from 1938 and are left with a million nails that are stuck like iron right next to the paper that won't come loose. It's difficult to get a "mini crowbar" in to pry them up. Does anyone have experience with this and know how/what to do?
JF.: Hello! Which insulation method is preferable, using a cross-laminated framework or installing Västkustskiva on the exterior? With the Västkustskiva, the thermal bridges are minimized, are there more pros and cons?
brabrabra11: [citat] No. No one smokes in my "länga" either. There has been a constant supply of smoke smell for a few days now. It's been a while since it was this bad. I've removed wall sockets and sniffed but haven't felt anything. It comes specifically from where the baseboard and quarter round are. .
Höghus: Fiber cement is completely insensitive to moisture. Put it in the basement and it was completely fine as a surface layer without treatment. If you think the gray color is boring, it's fine to paint it. /Höghus
hempularen: [citat] It sounds like you should sue the company for the extra costs you've incurred because of this. How did you find the company? And as mentioned, I think many would like to know which company it is.
Oldboy: Obviously the wrong supplier, or they are making plenty of money and don't think they need your money either... [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild]
greenbay: There are product requirements that manufacturers can choose to follow. The National Board of Housing, Building and Planning occasionally conducts inspections at construction sites, and only approved råspontluckor with a stamp are accepted. This concerns fall-through protection that must be verifiable.
Massito: I might be using the term "trappstycke" incorrectly, but what I mean is a concrete staircase like the one below, but closed off with a concrete wall/plastered gypsum wall instead of wood.
paralun: [citat] Well, the first thing you have to do is start measuring, without measuring you don't know more than what can be seen on the walls. Nowadays there are simple/cheap temperature/humidity sensors for "smart homes." Then it might be that you have to give up your ambitions with a finished basement and instead have it as a utility space. Based on the measurement, you control the humidity with a
Vikenrenov: How good. Can they withstand the heat from the wood stove?
joppe joppe: Hi I think your staircase turned out amazingly well. I'm planning to make a similar one for my basement stairs. The problem is that I don't have a welder and can't weld. If I buy the parts, would you consider welding it together for me? For a reasonable amount of money? Kind regards Jonas
Terrific: [citat] I'll have to think a bit more about how to proceed, if I cast a slab, the stone edge around it remains and I have to remove it afterwards and cast a new one, which is a bit cumbersome, but oh well. The garage door is intended for driving in my machines.
Viorel: [citat] Actually, all wall covering should be removed up to the framework (on the red one). Then plaster it again afterward. When everything is exposed, I can take the opportunity to reinforce with another beam. (I would NOT saw the existing one anyway). Thank you for the answer.
Christoffer Stenmark: Hello, We live in a house from 1955 and believe the ceiling is original. In one of the rooms, the ceiling has lost its elasticity. It seems to be some type of paper material. Is it possible to tighten it or is it easier to tear it down and install a plasterboard ceiling?
tergo: no plug is needed in that type of wall, the fracture panel usually sits with a 5-10 mm gap and there is typically about 25 mm plaster [citat] yes
MagHam: Have plenty of fiberglass joints. Not a single hairline crack anywhere. My hypothesis is that the recommendations are based on the board having better shear strength, and that it is advantageous particularly when houses are built quickly and without much consideration for moisture or temperature.
Testarn: I also believe that stringers should have support in the corners of the staircase and not "hang freely," but perhaps not so much for the prevention of creaking, but for stability. If you have a long stringer running along a wall, it can also be good to attach it to the wall so that it doesn't "rub" when the stringer bends a little under load and goes against the wall. What is worth considering is
Testarn: In the holes for our brine pipes, I filled them with foam sealant from the inside to reduce the risk of small animals getting in that way. Then we drained, so closest to the foundation wall there's isodrän, which ensures there's no standing water there, and we haven't had any problems with water intrusion, but we didn't before we drained either... so your idea of some 8-16 is probably not wrong
TheGame: [citat] Yes, that's how it looks above my ceiling too, it's very thin brown paper, then thin black on top. If it's intact, just put plaster on, tape any holes well
BSOD: Not sure if a geotextile is thick enough? Well, it also depends on how smooth the existing slab finish is. I suppose the risk of the tiles getting caught increases the less distance there is between the tiles.
JOHAN ERIKSSON6668: And this is how it turned out. Thanks for the help, everyone! [bild]
imported_hans: Hello, I am working on a renovation/construction of a "smaller" house intended for hobby use. This summer, I moved the first part of the house, where the "footprint" is approximately 3.50m x 3.60m. An equally large section will follow from the other end of the house. The plan was to extend these with a newly built middle section. I received a great tip to make the middle section a bit larger to
Byggstinsen: Hello! As a novice, I've been pondering the risk of cold air leaking in and warm air leaking out of the house. We recently had an air-to-air pump installed. The installer made a hole in the exterior wall (wood paneling) and ran insulated pipes, etc., through it. They sealed it from the outside with some kind of latex sealant and did the same on the inside. There is a small draft that you can feel