I would like to lay a bright marble-like floor in the greenhouse and found some tiles. The question is whether it really needs to be 20mm thick if laid on sand bedding?

I've searched online and found some info about laying tiles outdoors, and it states that it should be 20mm. However, I can't find much 20mm to choose from and nothing at all with a fairly white appearance. I find a lot of 10mm thick in various sizes.

In the greenhouse, it will be frost-free, so the sand shouldn’t move much. What do you think about going with 10mm thickness? Which tile size is then the most durable? I think a small tile, say 15x15cm, is unlikely to crack, but it might tip if the load is near a corner since sand can give way. A very large tile, say 90x90, is unlikely to tip but could obviously break if the surface isn’t perfect. My guess is that somewhere in between is optimal?
 
Option 1: Test

Option 2: Do it properly from the start
 
Yes, well I will definitely do it properly, but if by that you mean that I should pour a concrete slab, I do not intend to do so, mainly because I want to be able to dig up and redo the irrigation pipes that will run under the planned greenhouse floor if needed, but also because it is more expensive. Another advantage of having sand under in the greenhouse is that water can drain between the tiles and be absorbed.
 
I'm more doubtful that it will be good. Will a 15x15x1cm tile really stay in place?

Outdoor clinker is 20mm thick and it should be possible to have larger tiles without them moving or breaking.
 
Exactly, I don't think so either, that a 15x15x1cm would stay still. However, I do think that a larger tile stays still, but the risk of cracking increases instead. The question is what is an optimal size when we talk about the balance between small, which doesn't stay still, and large, which can crack at 10mm thickness.

It's something like this I would like to lay:
https://www.bygghemma.se/golv-och-v...c-florens-carrara-vit-matt-30x60-cm/p-1013370
 
I don't think it will work with tiles on sand. It will be too wobbly. I would rather use some light paving stones. If you absolutely want marble, maybe you can buy larger concrete slabs, like garden slabs, and glue some marble tile squares on each slab. The adhesive/fix should of course be frost-resistant and somewhat flexible so that you can move the concrete slabs around without the tiles coming loose.
 
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BirgitS
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It works if you lay the tiles like they used to... in a so-called bruksläggning.
 
You should be able to reinforce the sand with some type of fabric or netting. and then it should be able to work better at least
 
Good tips!
I can't find anything useful about bruksläggning. What does it mean?
Armera yes, I searched and found "grusarmering" which could be something, but it costs 450kr/sqm!
 
S steppen7 said:
Bruksläggning hittar jag inget nyttigt om. Vad innebär det?
You mix damp sand with cement, called dry mix, and use it on large areas such as indoors at supermarkets, and about 5 cm thick, it should stand and cure for about a day before walking on the tiles.
 
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Erik9005
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Ah, then I'm with you, also known as jordfuktig betong. Yes, that's certainly an idea, it becomes porous so that it's not too difficult to break up if needed (I have automatic irrigation pipes running in the ground underneath now).
 
It is appropriate to sprinkle a little extra cement (about 2 cm) from the joints under the tiles, then the ants will not dig up.
 
How did it go with that? I'm considering laying thinner granite ceramics on sand/gravel myself.
 
In the end, it became a cast slab with waterborne underfloor heating connected to the geothermal heat. I went all in.
 
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Rabbithole and 1 other
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