Found Isover's page for comparison just after I posted, they had comparable data for both wood and steel studs:S skyisthelimit said:
https://www.isover.se/innervaggar
...just missing the same construction where one double drywall is replaced with OSB. Would have been interesting to see how much worse it gets.
If you simplify a bit:
* Soundproofing can be between spaces and in/within spaces. In the latter case, the most common are things like sofas, thick carpets, thick drapes, and sound-absorbing materials on walls and sometimes even on ceilings and floors. Sound-diffusing surfaces are also sometimes used.
* Soundproofing between spaces (e.g., between rooms in a home or between adjacent homes) generally has the following practical prioritization:
1. Sealing all gaps between spaces, i.e., filling in ALL cracks and small holes. Also, block, for example, all ventilation openings, etc., that somehow connect the spaces. (Ventilation needs to be addressed in another way then, of course.)
2. Ensure that walls (primarily) have heavy, solid materials. For example, double drywall or drywall plus OSB and the like where the boards are glued together. (An advanced method might involve using a special glue that never hardens but retains some "softness," resulting in a "counter movement" between the board materials which absorbs the energy in the sound waves.)
3. Use absorbing materials in the walls. In typical cases, it's mineral wool. It usually handles mid-low frequencies. The thicker it is, the lower the frequencies it is effective against. Note that you must avoid "holes" and gaps in the material. For example, ensure that the mineral wool presses against the wooden wall studs, etc.
* Sometimes, you have to settle for earplugs or noise-canceling headphones. The latter is quite common nowadays.
* Soundproofing can be between spaces and in/within spaces. In the latter case, the most common are things like sofas, thick carpets, thick drapes, and sound-absorbing materials on walls and sometimes even on ceilings and floors. Sound-diffusing surfaces are also sometimes used.
* Soundproofing between spaces (e.g., between rooms in a home or between adjacent homes) generally has the following practical prioritization:
1. Sealing all gaps between spaces, i.e., filling in ALL cracks and small holes. Also, block, for example, all ventilation openings, etc., that somehow connect the spaces. (Ventilation needs to be addressed in another way then, of course.)
2. Ensure that walls (primarily) have heavy, solid materials. For example, double drywall or drywall plus OSB and the like where the boards are glued together. (An advanced method might involve using a special glue that never hardens but retains some "softness," resulting in a "counter movement" between the board materials which absorbs the energy in the sound waves.)
3. Use absorbing materials in the walls. In typical cases, it's mineral wool. It usually handles mid-low frequencies. The thicker it is, the lower the frequencies it is effective against. Note that you must avoid "holes" and gaps in the material. For example, ensure that the mineral wool presses against the wooden wall studs, etc.
* Sometimes, you have to settle for earplugs or noise-canceling headphones. The latter is quite common nowadays.
Yes, gypsum manufacturers sometimes don't want to answer that because they want you to only use gypsum (especially Gyproc).S skyisthelimit said:
But KnaufDanogips has some tables with their multi-stud and plywood https://www.knauf.se/walltype/classic-board-plywood/?parent=2641
35 dB for gypsum+plywood on both sides compared to 40 dB for double gypsum.
They also show their boards with wood studs
https://www.knauf.se/walltype/traregel-s600-classic-board/?parent=2646 35 dB for double gypsum then.
Älvsbyhus, built in 2009. No insulation in the interior walls. The most bothersome is the bedroom next to the main bathroom. When someone showers early in the morning, you wake up from the noise. Also, between the bedrooms, when, for example, someone is playing computer games and another is trying to sleep in the room next door.
Is lösull an option? How big of a hole is needed to spray it in?
Is lösull an option? How big of a hole is needed to spray it in?
It's crazy!M mats_lindqvist said:
Of course, interior walls are soundproofed.
We learned that half a century ago.
Gröna hund på Gröna Lund
https://open.spotify.com/track/3neag6Tk40L45j83H6tkKl
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Even earlier, right? A log or natural stone wall has quite good sound insulation without being explicitly insulated.R RogerHql said:
It dampens a maximum of 35 dB, probably around 32 dB. Then, depending on the thickness of the studs, it has its own frequency. Say it is 100 Hz, then the wall loses 6 dB in sound reduction at harmonic overtones. 200, 400, etc.R RogerHql said:
Recently moved into a newly built house with an attached garage. In the house where OSB, plasterboard, and insulated interior walls are standard.S SueCia said:
In the garage, there was only single plasterboard, so we chose to upgrade to OSB.
Realized during the construction when we got the construction drawing that the two walls in the garage where one wall was 5.2 meters long with two doors and one wall was 3.2 meters long didn’t have insulation in the interior walls. We talked to the carpenters, and they charged 1,100 kr to insulate these two walls with a ceiling height of 2.7 meters.
I’m glad I caught these in time. But it's crazy how some places cut corners.
When we built the house, I knew we wanted OSB and insulation, but not everyone thinks about this, and house suppliers cut corners.