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How to handle walls with reed mat and plaster
Hello!
I recently bought a condominium in a landshövdingehus from 1935. Now we want to put up shelves on the walls but have understood that the walls consist of plaster on reed matting. My question is, what generally is more in the interior walls, besides studs? Is there always plank further in, or could it be only reed matting with plaster on top, between the studs?
As I understand it, you can hardly attach anything heavy to these walls unless you find a stud or a plank wall. Even in the ceiling, there's reed matting and plaster. We would like to put up curtain rails, preferably in the ceiling.
How have others who live in these houses done it?
Grateful for advice
I recently bought a condominium in a landshövdingehus from 1935. Now we want to put up shelves on the walls but have understood that the walls consist of plaster on reed matting. My question is, what generally is more in the interior walls, besides studs? Is there always plank further in, or could it be only reed matting with plaster on top, between the studs?
As I understand it, you can hardly attach anything heavy to these walls unless you find a stud or a plank wall. Even in the ceiling, there's reed matting and plaster. We would like to put up curtain rails, preferably in the ceiling.
How have others who live in these houses done it?
Grateful for advice
I haven't seen a thread in the forum during all the years I've been here where the framework behind the plastered reed mats wasn't made of plank. It was once a very common method, and such a wall is called a kloasongvägg. The same applies to ceilings.
Asking some neighbors is a good way to start getting to know them.
Sometimes you have to adapt your wishes to what works in the house.
Asking some neighbors is a good way to start getting to know them.
Sometimes you have to adapt your wishes to what works in the house.
Thanks for the answer!BirgitS said:
I have not seen a thread in the forum during all the years I've been here where planks weren't the framework behind the plastered reed mats. It was once a very common method and such a wall is called kloasongvägg. The same goes for ceilings.
Asking some neighbors is a good way to start getting to know them.
Sometimes you have to adapt your wishes to what works in the house.
Yes, I have already started considering other possibilities for the living room because I don't want to damage the walls. But then one could think that you can try to reach the plank framework when you want to put something up?
Unfortunately, the majority of neighbors are newly moved in because the building was recently converted from rental units. The older generation that lived here for a long time has moved out. I'll ask the ones who remain.
Yes, you screw things into the plank frame.
Then you newcomers will have to help each other figure out how everything in the house works
many will probably want to make bigger changes than tenants who have lived there for a long time and have adapted to what you are allowed to do in a rental apartment.
Then you newcomers will have to help each other figure out how everything in the house works
Before I tore down our ceilings that were built in the same way, I noticed that the planks did not have 100% coverage. So it might be worth trying a couple of different places for any items that are to be hung up to ensure you hit a plank.
I would have taken a small drill and tested it. However, plaster is quite abrasive so use a drill you won't mourn if it gets ruined.
I would have taken a small drill and tested it. However, plaster is quite abrasive so use a drill you won't mourn if it gets ruined.
There is always a plank wall 8-17 mm behind the plaster and reed matting that is also fastened with nailed "chicken wire."
Walls may have slightly thicker plaster in "spots," but ceilings were plastered "as thinly as possible" due to weight.
It's usually perfectly feasible to just screw in wood screws directly, as the planks themselves were typically 25mm (in addition to the studs), and you would be extremely unlucky to hit a spot where the plank wall has a small gap.
No hammer drill on such walls or ceilings, instead use a small Phillips screwdriver and just work back and forth until you're through the plaster layer. (gently tap the screwdriver with a hammer if it's difficult to get through)
Best regards, Jawen
Walls may have slightly thicker plaster in "spots," but ceilings were plastered "as thinly as possible" due to weight.
It's usually perfectly feasible to just screw in wood screws directly, as the planks themselves were typically 25mm (in addition to the studs), and you would be extremely unlucky to hit a spot where the plank wall has a small gap.
No hammer drill on such walls or ceilings, instead use a small Phillips screwdriver and just work back and forth until you're through the plaster layer. (gently tap the screwdriver with a hammer if it's difficult to get through)
Best regards, Jawen
I've also heard that there can be gaps sometimes. Also heard that they can be attached "however," i.e., vertically, horizontally, and diagonally. Probably rare with diagonally, but a relative was a custodian in Malmö and experienced it on one occasion.Anders243 said:
Before I tore down our ceilings that were built in the same way, I noted that the planks didn't have 100% coverage. So it might be worth trying a couple of different places for any things that need to be hung up, to ensure you hit a plank.
I would have tried with a small drill. However, plaster does wear a lot, so use a drill you won’t mind if it gets ruined.
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