Hello!
I have eagerly thrown myself into the project of building a greenhouse with "loose" parts, i.e., not a pre-made greenhouse to be screwed together. It connects along its long side to an existing building (plastered and inside concrete blocks with "gaps" in it), which has a sloped roof. The greenhouse will be 580 long and 480 wide. The greenhouse will also have a sloped roof (sloping from short side to short side, i.e., not "from" the existing building, but along the existing building). The roof will be approximately 6 meters long, with a slope of about 6 degrees, with the construction I've calculated at byggbeskrivningar.se below (the image is misleading, it doesn't update based on the measurements; in reality, the building is longer than it is wide). On top of that, a 10 mm channel plastic roof will be installed.
It's easy to find descriptions online on how to build a greenhouse, and I've read countless of them, but virtually none include important details that are difficult to figure out if you are not knowledgeable in the subject. I've read some building descriptions at byggbeskrivningar.se, but they are not the same, and it's hard to understand why there's a difference in the same steps between building, for example, an outhouse, carport, and patio.
I have gotten as far as building up the leca wall. On top of that, I plan to lay sill paper and sill (120*45) and will soon build the stud walls that will form a frame around the windows. These are to be built in 120*45, and I will nail them together with 3.4 100. For it to all come together, the parts need to be attached, and my question now is: how do I fasten the different parts to each other (preferably without overdoing it)?!
1. How do I fasten the sill to the leca wall? I've read about the options of concrete screws 8*90, cut nails that are nailed diagonally down like a V (sort of toe nailing?), and nail plugs. I'm putting the sill in place so that I can replace it if needed (I think - or is that wrong?), so I don't want to attach it so excessively that it becomes practically impossible to replace. At the same time, I want the greenhouse to stay in place.
2. One of the short sides is an existing concrete wall. How do I best fasten the sill to it?
3. How do I attach the stud wall to the sill (it will be leca - sill - lying stud)? Have I read correctly that I should toe nail it? Should it be 4 125, or is 3.4 100 sufficient?
4. The stud wall should be attached to the existing plastered wall. Concrete screws?
5. The glulam beam, which runs from the middle of one long side to the middle of the other long side, should be attached on top of the stud wall on one long side. How?
6. At the other end, the glulam beam should be attached to/on the plastered wall. In the "worst" case, I thought about making a hole in the wall and inserting it, but maybe that's overkill? Can I replace byggbeskrivningar.se's suggestion of a glulam post 90*90 with attaching the glulam beam to the wall? If so, how?
7. I will stick to construction timber for the roof rafters and therefore cannot get 6-meter-long beams. These need to be spliced directly over the glulam beam. Can I do that with a nail plate fastened with anchor nails?
8. The crowning glory, the sloped roof, should then be attached to the stud walls. I plan to cut them at the bottom ends so they fit snugly against the stud above the windows. I've read that I can fasten them with toe nailing 3.4 100, and one description also mentions supplementing with an angle bracket 90*90*40 screwed with anchor screws. Another description (for carport) stated that they should be fastened with perforated strip metal that is folded around each rafter end. How should I proceed? Could it even be enough to just toe nail?
Is there anyone knowledgeable who would like to offer advice on one or more of the questions? So I can avoid taking belt and suspenders and assembling the parts as if I were building a skyscraper
1. Lightweight concrete screw.
2. Expansion bolt
3. I built the walls laying down and nailed 3 4"-nails (100 mm) from underneath into each stud.
4. Plug and screw.
5. Place a double stud underneath where the laminated beam will lie, cut to exact height before raising the wall.
6. Place a stud along the plastered facade and plug screw it into the wall. Sill paper behind and treat it first.
7. There are finger-jointed studs, otherwise yes.
8. Use angle brackets, they don't cost many kronor each. You don't want the roof to lift when it's windy.
Just the right size project, you'll manage it brilliantly.
Good luck !!!
