This year, we're finally going to tackle replacing the fence. I had a day off yesterday and took the opportunity to test-build (the frame for) one section to see what questions arise. Before building the rest, I plan to check these questions with the forum. A lot of it involves fastenings, as well as how much and where I should use the level. :D

Two wooden fence posts and various tools on a grassy area beside a road, with a parked car and some buildings in the background. Wooden fence frame on a grassy area near a brick building, with tools scattered on the ground.

The posts and beams are pressure-treated 45x70. The slats will be 45x28, sticking up ~100mm over the beam.
The total height of the fence will be around ~110cm, with a distance between the posts of ~2.9 meters.
I dip all cut surfaces in oil.

1. Place the posts on 1cm shimming block, good or useless?
My thought: raise them off the ground to avoid absorbing moisture and provide some support if the fastening is insufficient.
A hand holding a black plastic spacer near a wooden fence post and metal bracket, with a bucket of wood oil in the background on grass. Wooden fence post on a small black shim above concrete, secured with a metal bracket and bolt. Grass and a blue container are in the background.

2. I'm securing the posts with 8x50mm coach screws, 2 per post. Will that be enough, or do I need through-bolts?

3. Shim the posts to get them vertical, necessary or irrelevant?

I imagine that straight posts might make the rest of the work a bit easier (like the alignment of horizontal beams?) but... it might just be unnecessary fuss and risk making the fence short-lived with all those plastic pieces everywhere. As you can see, we're attaching to existing metal in the concrete, and there aren't large inclines involved.
A wooden fence post with a pink arrow pointing to a green shim between the post and a metal bracket, part of a fence construction test section. Wood post clamped for fence construction; highlighted area indicates testing position for leveling and stability, using spacers on existing metal structure.

4. Fastening of beams to the posts. Is 2 decking screws (4.2x75mm stainless) enough?
I don't quite have room for through-bolts, I think. (screws slanted of course so that the decking screw grips into the post)
Close-up of a wooden fence section under construction, showing two pressure-treated posts joined with screws, set against a garden background.

5. Does it matter at all if the beam is at the same height as the post or a bit lower?
Could there be issues with water? Should I leave room for adjustment to keep the beam level? (are level beams important?)
Close-up of a wooden fence section test build showing a post and beam connection with screws, set against a brick wall. Wooden fence section with pressure-treated post attached using screws; pink mark indicates spjälorna will extend above rails. Background shows a garden setting.

Thanks! :D
 
It was hard to know what would be best, but this summer we took a few weeks to finish building the fence with roughly the same strategy as above. So far, it works well!

For context, we got a dog shortly after moving in, and then we put up a net along the 50-year-old knee-high fence. The plan was to build something new as soon as the weather got better - we bought the materials and then they sat for two years. :D
Person adjusting a newly-built fence with a dog on the lawn in front of a house. The area is part of a yard with visible grass and trees, surrounded by fencing.

The new fence is simply pressure-treated wood, unpainted, to avoid any form of maintenance. We built it 110 cm high around the backyard where the dog runs.
A wooden fence surrounds a garden in front of a red-brick house, with a tree and a streetlight visible. Overcast sky above.

To delineate against the front, we set four post shoes in concrete and built a gate. Lesson learned from that: post shoes are not ideal for this purpose because it doesn't become entirely stable. If I were to do it again, I would have instead set in H-beams or something similar for better stability.
A newly built wooden fence and gate in a garden, made of untreated wood for low maintenance. The gate is supported by temporary braces.

At the front, we chose to build a lower fence, about 80 cm high.
Red brick house with new wooden fence and shrubs; person working on sidewalk near fence; trees in yard and sky visible.

We also took the opportunity to create a new spot for the trash bin so it no longer needs to stand on the driveway. We made space for separate bins for paper and plastic, which means we no longer have boxes and plastic accumulating in the garage! In the bins, we use 410-liter trash bags, and when they're full, we just lift them out and take them to the recycling center. Waste management became 100% smoother!.
A brick house with a new wooden fence and rowan tree in the front yard. Trash bins are visible next to the fence. A person is working on the fence.

Maybe next year’s project will be to get a cheap welder and try to raise the small steel gates at the front to match the height of the fence. It would be fun to learn a bit of metalworking!
 
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crematorn
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After taking down the old fence, we were left with a pile of junk on the lawn. The old slats were completely worn out, but the rails were basically in good condition – except for being bent and having some moss. There was also a bit of rot around the bolt holes, but that’s easy to cut away.

Pile of old wooden fence slats and other materials on a lawn, with houses and a tree in the background.

Instead of having to haul away all the dismantled material, I decided to build a woodshed out of it. I purchased a blueprint to base it on and excavated and graveled a spot behind the garage for a stable foundation.
Outdoor space next to a brick garage with a pile of white corrugated panels, a leveling tool, a shovel, and a robotic lawnmower on grass.

Foundation for a wood shed being built with reused materials, including a leveled frame and gravel spread behind a brick wall.

Wooden frame construction on deck with mossy beams, ready for assembly as part of a firewood shed project.
Wooden structure for a firewood shed under construction against a brick wall, with old planks and gravel foundation visible, next to a garden hose.

I also had some leftover roofing from when we replaced the deck roof, so I thought I’d use that as the roof for the woodshed.
A DIY wood storage shed under construction using recycled materials against a brick wall, featuring a corrugated roof and gravel foundation.

Since we moved here, I have cut down and collected all combustible wood and wood scraps in moving boxes, so now everything finally has its own place until we burn it in the stove. :)
Outdoor wood storage shed made from repurposed materials beside a brick wall, containing cardboard boxes and burlap sacks under a corrugated roof.

The sides of the woodshed are made of leftover paneling from when I replaced the gable panels. I probably have some paint left from that project as well, so the plan is to coat the end grain with it for extra durability.
A small woodshed with black horizontal slats is attached to a brick building. A wheelbarrow and hoses are visible, with a garden area in the foreground.
 
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BengtH
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