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How should I install furring strips for the ceiling in my garage?
Hello!
I have a new project ahead where I want to fix up our garage, which is a bit of a messy chapter. The house is from the 1940s.
To give some background:
The room, about 15 sqm, consists of a concrete floor, plastered walls, and concrete beams. The ceiling currently has about 50 mm of foam insulation (part of the living room is on the floor above). The ceiling height in the garage without the foam is 2.10 m.
The foam is attached with glue and taped seams. Some ventilation pipes and water pipes run along the room, located just under the foam in position.
My goal is to achieve a nicer ceiling, so I plan to install battens (28x70?) after insulation and then put up drywall, preferably renovation drywall to minimize the reduction in height.
My considerations are:
1. The foam is old, and I'm wondering if it's worth replacing it with something like icell insulation if it's worth it, or if it doesn't make much difference? If so, I'm thinking of their 45 mm insulation. I'd prefer more, of course, but the ceiling height doesn't really allow it...
2. Should I fix the battens with 120 mm nail plugs, i.e., drill through the battens and insulation into the concrete beams?
3. Is it recommended to install the battens lengthwise or crosswise?
4. I want to run cables for electricity as I plan to install 4 spotlights in the ceiling. I assume it should be possible to groove a bit if necessary, or even run along the battens?
5. Where the upcoming drywall meets the ventilation pipes (about 150 mm in diameter), is there a way to achieve a neat finish where the drywall meets the pipe if building a drum everywhere isn't possible?
Many questions, I gratefully accept your suggestions and tips!
Thanks
I have a new project ahead where I want to fix up our garage, which is a bit of a messy chapter. The house is from the 1940s.
To give some background:
The room, about 15 sqm, consists of a concrete floor, plastered walls, and concrete beams. The ceiling currently has about 50 mm of foam insulation (part of the living room is on the floor above). The ceiling height in the garage without the foam is 2.10 m.
The foam is attached with glue and taped seams. Some ventilation pipes and water pipes run along the room, located just under the foam in position.
My goal is to achieve a nicer ceiling, so I plan to install battens (28x70?) after insulation and then put up drywall, preferably renovation drywall to minimize the reduction in height.
My considerations are:
1. The foam is old, and I'm wondering if it's worth replacing it with something like icell insulation if it's worth it, or if it doesn't make much difference? If so, I'm thinking of their 45 mm insulation. I'd prefer more, of course, but the ceiling height doesn't really allow it...
2. Should I fix the battens with 120 mm nail plugs, i.e., drill through the battens and insulation into the concrete beams?
3. Is it recommended to install the battens lengthwise or crosswise?
4. I want to run cables for electricity as I plan to install 4 spotlights in the ceiling. I assume it should be possible to groove a bit if necessary, or even run along the battens?
5. Where the upcoming drywall meets the ventilation pipes (about 150 mm in diameter), is there a way to achieve a neat finish where the drywall meets the pipe if building a drum everywhere isn't possible?
Many questions, I gratefully accept your suggestions and tips!
Thanks
No one has any thoughts to share? 😅C cpt said:Hello!
I have a new project ahead of me where I want to tidy up our garage, which is a bit of a messy chapter. The house is from the 1940s.
To give some background:
The room, about 15 sqm, consists of a concrete floor, plastered walls, and a concrete slab. Currently in the ceiling, there are about 50 mm of foam board (part of the living room is on the above floor). The ceiling height in the garage, not counting the foam board, is 2.10 m.
The foam board is installed using glue and taped joints. Along the room, there are some ventilation ducts and water pipes, placed just below the foam board.
My goal is to achieve a nicer ceiling, and I therefore plan to install battens (28x70?) after insulation and then mount plasterboards, preferably renovation plaster to avoid reducing the height more than necessary.
My considerations are;
1. The foam board is old, and I'm wondering if it's worth replacing it with something like icell insulation if it's worth it, or if it doesn't make any difference? I'm thinking of their 45 mm insulation. I would preferably have more, of course, but the ceiling height doesn't really allow for that...
2. Should I install battens with 120 mm nail plugs, i.e., drill through the battens and insulation up into the concrete slab?
3. Is it recommended to install battens side to side, or should they run end to end?
4. I want to be able to run wiring for electricity, as I want to install 4 spotlights in the ceiling. I assume you should be able to cut out a bit if necessary or even run alongside the battens?
5. Where the future plaster meets ventilation pipes (about 150 mm in diameter), can it be done neatly at the point where the plaster meets the pipe if there isn't an option to build a casing in all places?
So many questions, I gratefully accept your suggestions and tips!
Thanks
I don't think you need to change the cellular plastic. I would use 22x95 battens on cc 30 and then regular drywall instead. Easier to spackle, cheaper, and better fire protection. You can fit electrical wiring between the battens, and if you need to go across, you just cut the battens there.
It should be fine to go against the vent pipes, then spackle and seal the gap if you don't want to move them down. Choose the direction of the battens so that the electrical wiring is easiest. 120 spike plugs are plenty.
It should be fine to go against the vent pipes, then spackle and seal the gap if you don't want to move them down. Choose the direction of the battens so that the electrical wiring is easiest. 120 spike plugs are plenty.
Thanks! Very helpful.J Johnsvi said:I don't think you need to replace the cellplast. I would go with 22x95 battens on cc 30 and then regular gypsum instead. Easier to plaster, cheaper, and better fire protection. You can fit electrical wiring between the battens, and if you need to go across, you can cut the battens there.
It's probably fine to go against the vent pipes, then plaster and seal the gap if you don't want to move them down. Choose the direction of the battens so that the electrical wiring is easiest. 120 nail plugs are more than enough.
Is the garage heated?
There could be an opportunity to remove the cellplast otherwise and install 22x70 with 13 gypsum, and you would even gain 10mm.
There could be an opportunity to remove the cellplast otherwise and install 22x70 with 13 gypsum, and you would even gain 10mm.
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