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16 replies
4k views
16 replies
Size of wire nail or wood screw for 45 studs
Hi,
I'm planning to put up an interior wall with 45mm wooden studs and wire nails, but should I use 2.8x75mm wire nails or 3.4x100mm wire nails?
The wall will only be a maximum of 1.5m wide.
I've done it before but it was such a long time ago, I just want to double-check after seeing this video which says 2.8x75mm.
If not using wire nails, and using wood screws instead, what size would be good to have?
Maybe I have some left in the basement instead of buying wire nails.
Thanks in advance
I'm planning to put up an interior wall with 45mm wooden studs and wire nails, but should I use 2.8x75mm wire nails or 3.4x100mm wire nails?
The wall will only be a maximum of 1.5m wide.
I've done it before but it was such a long time ago, I just want to double-check after seeing this video which says 2.8x75mm.
If not using wire nails, and using wood screws instead, what size would be good to have?
Maybe I have some left in the basement instead of buying wire nails.
Thanks in advance
Last edited:
2.8x75mm
These are thin nails, but they are only meant to fasten the sill and wall plate to the floor + chipboard, as well as battens in the ceiling, so the wall doesn't move sideways.
They use the same thin nails to attach the studs, and therefore 4 nails per attachment. (Not many nails are needed to put up an extra interior wall, so it’s easier to use the same nails for everything. That is, only buy one packet of nails. Apart from nails and/or screws for sheet material.)
These are thin nails, but they are only meant to fasten the sill and wall plate to the floor + chipboard, as well as battens in the ceiling, so the wall doesn't move sideways.
They use the same thin nails to attach the studs, and therefore 4 nails per attachment. (Not many nails are needed to put up an extra interior wall, so it’s easier to use the same nails for everything. That is, only buy one packet of nails. Apart from nails and/or screws for sheet material.)
I would say that it's easier to toe-nail 100mm nails than 75mm. 75mm tends to be a bit short. If you're going to use screws instead, go for 5x90 or 5x80.
The usual practice is to build interior walls with 70mm studs and don't forget to insulate them.
The usual practice is to build interior walls with 70mm studs and don't forget to insulate them.
How many screws are needed, is it 4 like in the video when using wire nails, 2 on each side?N NoOne2k said:
Thanks in advance
You mention that the wall should be a maximum of 1.5m long (or short). Will it be clad with osb or plywood on any side? If yes, then the board material helps to bind the wall together.E evoline said:
I would have used 2 pcs 5x90 (or whatever I have at home) at the end of each stud. Regardless of whether I would have framed at cc 450 or 600mm.
Such a small wall I had assembled lying on the floor and screwed on the standing studs, probably 4 of them. You just make it a little shorter than the room height, then you tap in some spacers and attach the wall piece also with screws.
Actually, I'm not sure, it's not for my home, will check later.K Kardan79 said:You mention that the wall should be a maximum of 1.5m long (or short). Will it be covered with OSB or plyboard on any side? If yes, then the sheet material contributes to binding the wall together.
I would have used 2 pieces of 5x90 (or whatever I have at home) at the end of each stud. Regardless of whether I would have spaced the studs at 450 or 600mm centers.
The wall is between the hall and room, and will be hidden by a wardrobe later anyway.
You want the outer edge to be plumb, while the inner stud rests against whatever it needs to rest against. Can't you create problems in your eagerness to save 2 minutes?A AndersS said:
Edit - we don't know anything about the wall. Maybe it should connect to 2 existing walls.
The purpose is not to save time but to make it simple with a small wall with 45 studs as ts wants. You can align it without problems in several directions, similar to when you set door frames with spacers, or wedges if you prefer, and then just fasten it with screws in the ceiling/floor/wall. So there are no problems, and it's just a possible solution. But this was just a description of a method I've used on a few occasions.K Kardan79 said:
I will frame around like a frame and then have 2-3 studs in the middle as well, depending on the width of the wall.
The question was just how many screws/nails to use when attaching the studs to the top rail and the one to the floor.
In the video, 4 nails were used, but will now use 5x90 screws instead as someone mentioned here.
I'll get back later today, will check what they want and take pictures so you can help =)
Thanks for all the help
The question was just how many screws/nails to use when attaching the studs to the top rail and the one to the floor.
In the video, 4 nails were used, but will now use 5x90 screws instead as someone mentioned here.
I'll get back later today, will check what they want and take pictures so you can help =)
Thanks for all the help
It's really an incredibly simple thing to do, and I'm not claiming that your way is the wrong way to do it.A AndersS said:The purpose is not to save time but to make it simple with a small wall with 45 studs like ts wants. You can align it without any problem in several directions just like when you install door frames with spacers, or wedges if you want that, and then just fasten it with screws in the ceiling/floor/wall. So there are no problems and just one possible solution.
But it was just a description of a method I've used on a few occasions.
Hate dealing with 45x45 studs. They're always crooked and twisted. I've said "never again" more than once.
I would probably have used metal studs and OSB under the plasterboard (for easy mounting of the wardrobes), unless the wall became too thick with the OSB.
This is what it looks like, planning to put up a new wall between the rooms.
It was only about 89cm in width.
The wall on the right has a 45 timber frame and just plasterboard on both sides we saw today, so it will probably be the same for the new wall that will be behind the wardrobe from the hall and bedroom.
Wondering if one should cut a piece of the old plasterboard to splice with the new plasterboard, or just plaster the new frames.
Or remove the old plasterboard to put up new ones over the whole, then maybe it's just as well to put a wooden board underneath too.
I don't want to spend too much time and money on the wall, that's all I know.
Any tips?
Thanks in advance
It was only about 89cm in width.
The wall on the right has a 45 timber frame and just plasterboard on both sides we saw today, so it will probably be the same for the new wall that will be behind the wardrobe from the hall and bedroom.
Wondering if one should cut a piece of the old plasterboard to splice with the new plasterboard, or just plaster the new frames.
Or remove the old plasterboard to put up new ones over the whole, then maybe it's just as well to put a wooden board underneath too.
I don't want to spend too much time and money on the wall, that's all I know.
Any tips?
Thanks in advance
I have no idea what rule has been used. It looks like a stud. Is it 45mm?E evoline said:
If it had been a regular 45x45 stud, I would have cut off a piece of the drywall (vertically) and spliced onto the stud. Maybe even screwed and glued. The risk of cracking is high with only one layer of drywall and 45x45 studs.
Don't forget to bevel the drywall for upcoming joint compound application. The existing drywall lacks "insurance" for tape.


