Hello
I bought a moisture meter a while ago that I planned to use, admittedly one from Jula for 199 kr (http://www.jula.se/e-Sales/esa/ItemDetails.jsp?@where.ItemID@EQ=405034)
Probably not of great quality, but it might suffice?
My question is, what moisture level can the wood in a stud frame and to some extent floor chipboard (under the sill in some places) have before spraying eco-fiber and then sealing the wall with interior gypsum...? I'm building a diffusion-open construction with exterior gypsum on the outside and a vapor barrier inside, and insulating with eco-fiber.
I understand that there are different moisture levels like relative and all that.
I've heard a figure of about 17-18 or lower as a minimum.
I bought a moisture meter a while ago that I planned to use, admittedly one from Jula for 199 kr (http://www.jula.se/e-Sales/esa/ItemDetails.jsp?@where.ItemID@EQ=405034)
Probably not of great quality, but it might suffice?
My question is, what moisture level can the wood in a stud frame and to some extent floor chipboard (under the sill in some places) have before spraying eco-fiber and then sealing the wall with interior gypsum...? I'm building a diffusion-open construction with exterior gypsum on the outside and a vapor barrier inside, and insulating with eco-fiber.
I understand that there are different moisture levels like relative and all that.
I've heard a figure of about 17-18 or lower as a minimum.
also read this response from 2005:
tartan said:
Anyone know what actually applies? I'm not using a vapor barrier, but a vapor retarder, so that makes it a bit easier, but I'm not planning to do everything in one go, rather wait a bit between steps... I plan to install ventilation first, as well as some heating before the ecowool goes in. However, the vapor retarder will be applied soon, followed by the battens on the outside. Or should one wait even longer so that the moisture content in the interior framing timber of the structure can be checked?
It's difficult to get the temperature up in the construction with a construction heater when it's not insulated, and only the exterior gypsum is sealing it. Especially now, when it's 10-15 degrees below zero outside... Maybe I need to wait for spring?
It's difficult to get the temperature up in the construction with a construction heater when it's not insulated, and only the exterior gypsum is sealing it. Especially now, when it's 10-15 degrees below zero outside... Maybe I need to wait for spring?
If you are going to wait until you are down to 12%, can you rely on the tool above - that it really shows correctly or is the margin of error too large?
Considering that Protimeters, which cost significantly more, need to be calibrated sometimes, I would have taken the figures from that meter with a grain of salt even if it provides reference values.
Note that tartan wrote seal again, i.e., vapor tight, there is a certain difference.
/Kent
Note that tartan wrote seal again, i.e., vapor tight, there is a certain difference.
/Kent
Hello. There's no problem if the timber in the frame has a moisture content of 18-20%. Just make sure not to use a vapor barrier (plastic). Do all the necessary water and electrical installations. Install the vapor retarder (fiber fabric). Blow in cellulose insulation. Now you should start the building dryer. Expect it to take at least as long for the timber to dry as it is thick. So, if a beam is 45mm thick, it will take 45 days to dry down to 8-12%. And invest a bit more in a better moisture meter. That way, you'll know for sure and won't have to rely on your Jula moisture meter. Good luck.
so the timber doesn't need to be completely dry before the ecowool goes in? That definitely helps when trying to raise the temperature.... But the ventilation should also be installed and running to help vent out moisture, right? It will certainly be pretty soon....
And no, it's not plastic/vapor barrier I have but a vapor retarder... precisely to properly get rid of moisture.
And no, it's not plastic/vapor barrier I have but a vapor retarder... precisely to properly get rid of moisture.
Ventilation is never wrong. And then the wood must not be too wet. Have you checked how much moisture is in the wood?
no, I certainly haven't. Got it a couple of days before Christmas from Sten & Son in Enköping. Comes directly from Stora and another supplier and everything is packed in original packaging with an extra tarp over it, so here they have at least not been exposed to precipitation except for some frost that forms on the top boards closest to the tarp.
Kiln-dried lumber is the wood that is dried to about 18%, it is the type of wood used in most constructions and also in house factories. In a house factory, it doesn't take many hours from when a house element is started until it is wrapped in plastic and finished. The walls dry outward, which is why you should never use plastic on the outside.
Indoors, a dehumidifier is best for speeding up the drying process.
Indoors, a dehumidifier is best for speeding up the drying process.
I agree with Bror, 18% works, for problems more water is usually needed, usually it comes from rain or ground/slab or so.
Wood dries in all directions, both outward and inward. As long as you don't have double vapor barriers, the timber will adjust to the environment.
Wood dries in all directions, both outward and inward. As long as you don't have double vapor barriers, the timber will adjust to the environment.