I have removed two hat rack brackets from my plaster wall (not drywall but thicker) which left rather large holes from the nails (?) that were used. I'm considering the best way to repair these. They are maybe a bit larger than a five-krona coin.
I'm hesitant about regular putty. It would be very thick in that case. Also, as carax mentions, I'm not sure if this will hold to put up new things.
Any tips on what to use? What is structural plaster?
I'm hesitant about regular putty. It would be very thick in that case. Also, as carax mentions, I'm not sure if this will hold to put up new things.
Any tips on what to use? What is structural plaster?
I have used Casco Husfix for large holes, although not specifically in plaster, but it adheres to most things and can be applied as thick as needed. However, it is quite expensive, but for a few holes it should not cost too many kronor.
Drying time is not a major problem for me, although it would be desirable not to have to wait so long. The highest goal is that it turns out well and is durable. So what are the differences between these two proposals?
What does Husfix cost?
What does Husfix cost?
I usually repair holes in drywall in two ways, regardless of size:
1) Saw out a square piece of new drywall. Bevel the edges at 45 degrees. Place the new piece of drywall over the hole and trace the outlines. Saw out around the hole corresponding to the piece of drywall, but make sure the edges are approximately 45 degrees. Fit it so that it sits slightly deeper than the rest of the wall, then just attach it with joint compound and apply more joint compound over it.
2) Cut out a corresponding hole, but skip the beveling and insert pieces of studs through the hole, secure with screws, apply joint compound and sand.
These methods naturally require you to repair the surface as well (new paint, wallpaper, etc.), but the trick is to make the hole larger if needed. Trying to push in some kind of compound (joint compound, gypsum filler, etc.) usually doesn't work very well if it's a regular drywall, i.e., empty behind the hole.
If it's not, if the hole is really just a "crater," any kind of gypsum mixed with water will work fine. Joint compound also works, but it takes forever to dry and sinks in.
1) Saw out a square piece of new drywall. Bevel the edges at 45 degrees. Place the new piece of drywall over the hole and trace the outlines. Saw out around the hole corresponding to the piece of drywall, but make sure the edges are approximately 45 degrees. Fit it so that it sits slightly deeper than the rest of the wall, then just attach it with joint compound and apply more joint compound over it.
2) Cut out a corresponding hole, but skip the beveling and insert pieces of studs through the hole, secure with screws, apply joint compound and sand.
These methods naturally require you to repair the surface as well (new paint, wallpaper, etc.), but the trick is to make the hole larger if needed. Trying to push in some kind of compound (joint compound, gypsum filler, etc.) usually doesn't work very well if it's a regular drywall, i.e., empty behind the hole.
If it's not, if the hole is really just a "crater," any kind of gypsum mixed with water will work fine. Joint compound also works, but it takes forever to dry and sinks in.