Hi
I also recommend c/c 30. Be sure to adjust the c/c distance where you place the first board(s) so you can remove the recessed part (5-7 cm) on the section of the board facing the wall - otherwise, you'll have to fill the entire seam against the wall - easier to only fill the screws. (Saw off the recess where the strip is meant to be filled in, I mean.)
//Mikael
I also recommend c/c 30. Be sure to adjust the c/c distance where you place the first board(s) so you can remove the recessed part (5-7 cm) on the section of the board facing the wall - otherwise, you'll have to fill the entire seam against the wall - easier to only fill the screws. (Saw off the recess where the strip is meant to be filled in, I mean.)
//Mikael
I'm going to apply latex sealant at the edges anyway.mikmal said:Hi
Remember to adjust the c/c distance where you place the first board(s) so that you can remove the recessed part (5-7 cm) on the part of the board that is towards the wall - otherwise, you will have to fill the entire seam against the wall - easier to only fill the screws. (Cut away the recess where the strip is supposed to be filled in, I mean.)
//Mikael
Without it or filler, it won't look good, and I'm not going to have any ugly ceiling moldings either.
Thanks
No, you still need to caulk if you aren't going to have a molding - but if you don't remove the beveled part of the board, you'll also need to fill...evoline said:
If you mount a layer of gypsum along the joists, you should use cc30. If you mount the panels across the joists, you can use as much as cc60.evoline said:
Ceiling
So how do you mean to remove the beveled edge???
Saw off the indentation, in other words.
Is it just to cut all the way so that the plasterboard itself is visible, so that the actual paper disappears??
I will have regular wall plasterboards.
I will have studs from the window inward.
In other words, follow the sunlight.
Same thing with the plasterboard, it should be from the light.
Thanks
Saw off the indentation, in other words.
Is it just to cut all the way so that the plasterboard itself is visible, so that the actual paper disappears??
I will have regular wall plasterboards.
I will have studs from the window inward.
In other words, follow the sunlight.
Same thing with the plasterboard, it should be from the light.
Thanks
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There is a facade edge that is about 4cm wide on the long sides of the plasterboard, the plasterboard is ~10mm thick there compared to the rest of the board which is 13mm.
They recommend that you cut it off to avoid having to spackle the long side(s) that end up against the wall.
They recommend that you cut it off to avoid having to spackle the long side(s) that end up against the wall.
There are two ways to frame the roof. Either you frame down with cc30 and screw directly into the studs. Another option if you want to lower a bit more is to frame down and then screw a sparse panel on cc30. The studs can then be cc120 and then sparse panel e.g. 28x70rpl with cc30.
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