Yo!
I'm thinking about what to nail/screw onto my frame once I've erected it...
Here are a few options I've come up with, opinions and thoughts, anyone who knows. Specific considerations are marked with an arrow.
Walls from the outside:
Cladding panel 22x125 with 2.5 cm overlap (7cm between boards)
Nail battens 28x70
-> Windproof tarp or outdoor gypsum? (The frame will be self-supporting without any issue, but extra bracing might not be a bad idea? However, the boards are quite expensive...)
195 mm insulation
-> Plastic or no plastic?
-> Nail battens or not?
-> Raw planking, construction plywood or OSB? (To have something to screw into.)
Fire-resistant gypsum board
Exterior roof from outside, option 1:
Roof tiles/metal
Load-bearing battens
Counter battens
Underlay
Raw planking
Option 2:
Metal
Load-bearing battens
Waterproof masonite
Option 3:
Roof shingles
Raw planking
Interior ceiling from above:
-> "Floorboards". The roof trusses' c/c will end up around 1050-1060 (yes, it will be slightly different...), will raw planking hold for walking on, or should something sturdier be used? Can pressure-treated decking, like 28x120, be used or will it mold if it's laid like that? It should be just so one can go up and lay boards and other scrap without falling down...
195 mm insulation (won't hold any higher temperatures except temporarily when working in the garage.)
-> Plastic or not?
Nail battens/slatted panel
OSB board, so you have something durable to fasten garage door tracks and fluorescent fixtures into.
-> Fire-resistant gypsum? Or another interior ceiling covering?
Yeah, opinions and thoughts... Most worried about the plastic, actually. What happens if you skip it? Most of the time it will never be warmer than 10-15 degrees in the garage, so maybe it's better if it can breathe. Maybe plastic should still be used on the ceiling so dust and dirt don't fall down if painting and fixing?
I'm thinking about what to nail/screw onto my frame once I've erected it...
Here are a few options I've come up with, opinions and thoughts, anyone who knows. Specific considerations are marked with an arrow.
Walls from the outside:
Cladding panel 22x125 with 2.5 cm overlap (7cm between boards)
Nail battens 28x70
-> Windproof tarp or outdoor gypsum? (The frame will be self-supporting without any issue, but extra bracing might not be a bad idea? However, the boards are quite expensive...)
195 mm insulation
-> Plastic or no plastic?
-> Nail battens or not?
-> Raw planking, construction plywood or OSB? (To have something to screw into.)
Fire-resistant gypsum board
Exterior roof from outside, option 1:
Roof tiles/metal
Load-bearing battens
Counter battens
Underlay
Raw planking
Option 2:
Metal
Load-bearing battens
Waterproof masonite
Option 3:
Roof shingles
Raw planking
Interior ceiling from above:
-> "Floorboards". The roof trusses' c/c will end up around 1050-1060 (yes, it will be slightly different...), will raw planking hold for walking on, or should something sturdier be used? Can pressure-treated decking, like 28x120, be used or will it mold if it's laid like that? It should be just so one can go up and lay boards and other scrap without falling down...
195 mm insulation (won't hold any higher temperatures except temporarily when working in the garage.)
-> Plastic or not?
Nail battens/slatted panel
OSB board, so you have something durable to fasten garage door tracks and fluorescent fixtures into.
-> Fire-resistant gypsum? Or another interior ceiling covering?
Yeah, opinions and thoughts... Most worried about the plastic, actually. What happens if you skip it? Most of the time it will never be warmer than 10-15 degrees in the garage, so maybe it's better if it can breathe. Maybe plastic should still be used on the ceiling so dust and dirt don't fall down if painting and fixing?
Okay, so you don't use plastic in "unheated" spaces. Any good suggestions on what you can put above the ceiling and outside the cover plates on the interior walls to prevent dust from falling in from the insulation or flying in from the walls? (Think painting or similar...)
Alright, let's go with that.
I have compiled a list of what you can have on the inside of the wall behind the drywall:
17mm Råspont 55,75:-/m2
21mm Råspont 72,27:-/m2
11mm fukttrök OSB 3 47,59:-/m2
12mm Byggplywood 71,28/m2
I'm leaning towards the thin Råspont. Easy to put up with a nail gun, real wood, 17 mm thick, unlike OSB which is only 11 mm.
Apparently, you shouldn't have plastic when it's not very well heated. Can you also put wind barrier paper on the inside as a dust barrier?
What materials are suitable for use in the ceiling? Regular drywall?
How much does an automatic screwdriver cost?
I have compiled a list of what you can have on the inside of the wall behind the drywall:
17mm Råspont 55,75:-/m2
21mm Råspont 72,27:-/m2
11mm fukttrök OSB 3 47,59:-/m2
12mm Byggplywood 71,28/m2
I'm leaning towards the thin Råspont. Easy to put up with a nail gun, real wood, 17 mm thick, unlike OSB which is only 11 mm.
Apparently, you shouldn't have plastic when it's not very well heated. Can you also put wind barrier paper on the inside as a dust barrier?
What materials are suitable for use in the ceiling? Regular drywall?
How much does an automatic screwdriver cost?
I would like some more comments on the use of plastic in a space that is heated for maintenance.
I was thinking of installing raw pine on the inside of the interior walls and then fire gypsum on top of that since it's real wood after all. What fascinated me a bit is that my new favorite building supply store offers end-jointed raw pine at the same price as the regular one; it's quite suitable for the ceiling, right? Have I understood correctly that you don't need to splice on a rafter then?
I was thinking of installing raw pine on the inside of the interior walls and then fire gypsum on top of that since it's real wood after all. What fascinated me a bit is that my new favorite building supply store offers end-jointed raw pine at the same price as the regular one; it's quite suitable for the ceiling, right? Have I understood correctly that you don't need to splice on a rafter then?
As mentioned, plastic is usually not used when it is not heated. Use a "hard" windproof paper or similar if you want a dust barrier. Vapor barrier might be an alternative otherwise?
The insulation will more or less work "both ways," or however you want to put it. In the summer, the warm side will be the outside, etc. There aren't any major moisture sources inside the garage either. (Unless you start brewing beer or something.)
End-jointed lumber should be able to be spliced anywhere, that's the idea. It seems to work okay if you don't get too many joints in the same section.
The insulation will more or less work "both ways," or however you want to put it. In the summer, the warm side will be the outside, etc. There aren't any major moisture sources inside the garage either. (Unless you start brewing beer or something.)
End-jointed lumber should be able to be spliced anywhere, that's the idea. It seems to work okay if you don't get too many joints in the same section.