Building Materials and Construction Technology
johancarlen: check out Horbach I have seen that they have downpipes and gutters in Silver. /Johan
ivar40: Thank you titanium! Have a great week and we'll keep our fingers crossed for a warm October!! Best regards
Hejm: Yeah, I was planning to run them through the steel studs, that would probably be best, right? Then I also have the option to run whatever I want above the acoustic ceiling, where there's about a 10cm air gap...there will be two speakers in the ceiling anyway...
Krawk: [citat] Silicone doesn't "eat" plexi. Not normal construction silicone, at least. I've personally glued/sealed various types with silicone without issues. It doesn't adhere exceptionally well, but it works. I also think the tube you eventually found is a silicone of some sort. (Or? "MS polymer" = silicone?)
Mäster: If you guess that 15 mm disappears in overlap, it becomes about 290 m?
Danneå: When the timber "lies" down in a bundle, it must not get wet because it twists; if it is screwed/nail fastened, it cannot move in the same way... :)
Egon84: I am working on a room that will have a loft on top of the ceiling. The loft will be used to store various items that don't need to be in a heated storage area, and there might be some heavier items as well... I have some thoughts about how to build the joists for this. Laying maybe 2 layers of 220mm joists on top of each other to get a 440mm build height is quite good for the thickness of the
DeEss: Judging from the right picture, it is indeed, as JanneL wrote, attached with tacks. And if they are nailed like mine were, there are maaaany tacks/board. If you tear down the tretex, the tacks will most likely go through the board (due to Murphy's law :() and remain stuck in the underlying plank wall, leaving you with lots of tacks to pull out or hammer in. I performed this maneuver when I
Danneå: 22mm chipboard flooring is rigid too :) There is that which is milled for the pipe... I would never consider doing extra framing above the floor joists... I've extended a living room of about 40 m2 (4x10m) this summer with floor joists, plastic, 22mm chipboard flooring, paper, and parquet floor... I can stand and jump on it without the slightest give... and I weigh 110kg :p
Alpha: I have wallpapered directly on particleboard, leaving only a small gap between the seams and applying joint compound + tape on it. Another important thing to consider is to prime the particleboard before wallpapering either with wallpaper paste or regular primer to ensure it is saturated. I personally chose a slightly thicker wallpaper due to movements in the timber :)
cheetah1: Mm, or tear everything down and start from scratch again in say 15 years or so, when I've forgotten how badly it went last time... It's not really about continuing, it's about starting over again, because roof felt for a couple of thousand kronor has blown off. A thousand kronor that I don't have.
calle336: Hello I'm considering converting an old milk room into a workshop. The milk room is built with leca stone. We have extended it once on the outside on 2 walls. It is about 1m wide with a simple panel wall. The 3rd wall is log timber (and an old barn behind) and the 4th wall is just leca stone. Where should I insulate? On the inside of the leca stone? On the inside of the wooden wall (where we have
jannebmw: bufab .swemix.mattssons. any larger hardware store
Patte: No waterproof layer for tiles in the kitchen, the surface is not exposed to water to the extent that it is needed
Alpha: No problem with that, available for purchase at most hardware stores, at least the most common types such as spårpanel, pärlspont. If you don't have a large hardware store near where you live, check with the local lumber yard/building shop. Prices vary, of course, depending on where you shop, the type of panel, panel width, quantity, etc. A rough estimate would be between about 145-180/sqm for
hakaner: In new construction of permanent residences, the total amount of energy supplied per m^2 and year has been limited. This shall be reported in the form of an energy declaration to obtain a building permit. It can be difficult to meet this requirement for total energy consumption if you have walls with a U-value of 0.3... (And thus obtain a building permit) Instead, aim to come under 0.2 (at
gluecifer: A hole of approx. 25x15cm was made in the crawl space foundation, below ground level outside, to bring in the collector pipes for the heat pump. Pipes plus that gray pipe insulation are going through now, and I need to seal it up with mortar. Is it just a matter of patching it up as best as possible, does cement "adhere" to the insulation?? I'll be shoveling back gravel, etc., which will be
tommypeters: Maybe this can help... http://www.biltema.se/products/product.asp?iSecId=1707&iItemId=78294
DeEss: [citat] Not the one that's outside, but another one that's under a roof and glazed. "Insulated" with construction styrofoam between the floor beams, directly under the wall/glass sections to reduce the draft under the floor. It has actually worked quite well. //Daniel
Skånepåg: Hello! Our stone house has a plastered façade and I'm going to make a window out of a door opening. How can I avoid my new plaster from cracking at the joint with the old plaster after a while? It's not possible to mesh in the old plaster... Do you have any tips? Best regards, Mats
Farzan: [citat] Wasn't that a somewhat misleading statement? The higher the wall, the more practical, as it allows for furniture placement against the wall - that's true. But: The STEEPER the roof, the more practical, as it allows for furniture placement further out towards the wall than with a flatter roof (all else being equal, i.e., regardless of the height of the wall). That an elevated wall can be
ArneTW: [citat] No, it will not fare well with the copper screw. But since the plate is large compared to the screw, the oxidation of the plate will go relatively slowly, i.e., the plate is a sacrificial anode. Whereas if you do it the other way around, i.e., an un-noble screw in a nobler material, the screw will disappear before you can blink. In other words, the screw is the sacrificial anode. So the
gluecifer: From the central vacuum cleaner in the laundry room, the pipe goes down into the floor all the way to the crawl space, then it is directed 3 meters in the foundation before it goes up into the floor again. Does the pipe need to be insulated? I'm thinking about what happens if warm air is sucked through the pipe and it's freezing cold in the foundation?
(Inte Alltid)Glad Ammatör: [citat] Finally found the manufacturer's assembly instruction and it should be done as you say, the purlins over the canvas. Sigh, thought everything was going so damn well:( But oh well, a really big carpenter's cabin it will be when it's finished:D!
lajsiiwan: C-Bruk is probably the softest plaster mortar, I believe.
Rhino: Now I'm venturing into deep water. Our painter:o plastered a wall where we tore down about 2dm for a larger opening. Boards on both sides of what needs plastering, and depending on the depth, fill with brick and use mortar intended for plaster/masonry "depth". If the long sides of the boards are straight, you get an even and straight side, "just smooth along with it." There are certainly better
per28961: It should be possible to replace it from the outside. But you could possibly set the wall just outside the frame. But does it look strange to only have trim on the top and right side while just having, for example, a quarter round on the left side?
hempularen: can't you fix it so it comes under pressure. With PL400 you don't need any significant pressure, just so it doesn't fall off or move during drying. On a few occasions, I have fixed similar problems by attaching wooden strips with double-sided tape around what is to be glued, then another strip over the object and a couple of wedges to put the object under pressure. However, it hasn't been Leca,
pedja74: Thanks guys, I feel more confident now. It will be a timber frame construction with extra noggings.
pikachu: It's both plaster and tretex and in some places mixed. We are now applying 13 mm gypsum on all the tretex where we can easily reach (e.g., not the stairs) and priming and applying restorers on plaster. In places where plaster and tretex are mixed (around the chimney), gypsum will be glued to the chimney and screwed into the tretex. 13 mm gypsum costs about 22 SEK/sqm plus filler. Restorers are