Questions about repair plaster.

[Tomas J]

I'm going to install repair plaster on top of wood paneling and have removed all baseboards and door and window casings. All the moldings are old and nice, so I will use them again. Since the plaster adds 6mm, I thought I'd buy wood strips of the same width and attach them to the window and door frames, and then put the moldings back on. But at my hardware store, they only had a strip that was 8mm. It differs by 2mm, but the question is, does it matter? But then I think there should be 6mm strips available because I assume I'm not the only one to remove baseboards, window, and door casings before plastering?

 

[pingü]

Go ahead..

 

[Tomas J]

That sounds good. Otherwise, I might plane them down to 6mm, but if it's not necessary, I'd rather avoid it.

 

[Roundup]

If the moldings are concave/recessed on the back, small level differences aren't visible; if the moldings are flat, there may be a gap between the molding and the trim. However, gaps can be fixed with filler before painting.

 

[Tomas J]

The linings are smooth and approximately 10cm wide.

 

[Mäster]

It will probably not be noticeable, 6 mm on the pallet in the hardware store easily becomes 7 mm on a slightly uneven surface. If the trim is then 10 cm wide, it's no problem to hide a millimeter. It's better that your projections are a few mm too thick than too thin in this case.

Try on one side of the window before you start planing and complicating things.
Go for it..

 

[bygga_bo]

One option could be to get 6 mm MDF and cut it into strips in "list width."

 

[Plupp 23608]

Even better; Forget about the ROT-plasterboard and go with 13 mm plasterboard instead. The "problem" with the moldings remains, but the plastering becomes easier and nicer.

 

[Tomas J]

Even better; Forget about the ROT-gips and use 13 mm gips instead. The "problem" with the moldings remains, but the plastering will be easier and nicer.

The ROT-gips has already been purchased, as well as the 8mm thick moldings, so I'll have to make the best of this. But I have more rooms to do, so I'm wondering why regular gips is better? And are there any disadvantages to using regular gips?

 

[Mäster]

Regular plasterboard is a bit heavier to carry, but it usually ends up being cheaper and slightly smoother if it's very uneven behind. Renovation plasterboard has the disadvantage that it often looks a bit ugly around the screws, while regular plasterboard conceals them better. If you have more rooms to do, I think you might consider using regular plasterboard. A convenient alternative is 90 boards instead of 120, which makes it more expensive again, but incredibly much easier to carry and install. Regarding the moldings, I think it will be good with 1 mm thicker extensions than the plasterboard.