A few practical questions and thoughts from a happy amateur..
I have bought 17 mm raw boards that are about 95 wide. They will be used as a feature wall on a gable wall with a sloped ceiling on both sides and a window in the middle. I will prime the sides before installation but then I have a few questions..
Should I start at the top by the ceiling or the bottom by the floor?
Which side should be up and which down?
The room is a little more than 3 m wide, the boards are 3.3 m. Should I use ONE whole board or split it in two? The second option seems easier to work with, right?
What kind of nails should I use and how long (if it matters)?
Is it wise to buy a nail gun for this (costs around 200 SEK at Biltema if it's good enough)?
Should you try to nail through the groove where you insert the new board?
How closely should you nail?
What type of saw is the easiest and best to use (I have a circular saw but haven't dared to use it yet..)?
There may very well be more questions as we go along but I would be very grateful if you're willing to answer these!
I have bought 17 mm raw boards that are about 95 wide. They will be used as a feature wall on a gable wall with a sloped ceiling on both sides and a window in the middle. I will prime the sides before installation but then I have a few questions..
Should I start at the top by the ceiling or the bottom by the floor?
Which side should be up and which down?
The room is a little more than 3 m wide, the boards are 3.3 m. Should I use ONE whole board or split it in two? The second option seems easier to work with, right?
What kind of nails should I use and how long (if it matters)?
Is it wise to buy a nail gun for this (costs around 200 SEK at Biltema if it's good enough)?
Should you try to nail through the groove where you insert the new board?
How closely should you nail?
What type of saw is the easiest and best to use (I have a circular saw but haven't dared to use it yet..)?
There may very well be more questions as we go along but I would be very grateful if you're willing to answer these!
If the room is a little over three meters and the raw wood is 3.30, I would put full lengths every day of the week. 20 cm waste can be considered manageable.
When I put up a similar wall, I started at the floor because it felt silly to defy gravity. If you place it with the groove downwards, you can nail obliquely through the tongue. Insert two nails in each stud and a little bit apart from each other so they sit well.
If you have a compressor, get a nail gun and go for it. If you're using a hammer, it will take several times as long, and you will definitely break the tongue somewhere when you miss with the hammer. Otherwise, there are panel clips that can be a middle ground if you don't have a compressor.
Any saw works well, as long as you cut somewhat perpendicular. I assume you’ll have some kind of corner molding, which will cover up a bit.
When I put up a similar wall, I started at the floor because it felt silly to defy gravity. If you place it with the groove downwards, you can nail obliquely through the tongue. Insert two nails in each stud and a little bit apart from each other so they sit well.
If you have a compressor, get a nail gun and go for it. If you're using a hammer, it will take several times as long, and you will definitely break the tongue somewhere when you miss with the hammer. Otherwise, there are panel clips that can be a middle ground if you don't have a compressor.
Any saw works well, as long as you cut somewhat perpendicular. I assume you’ll have some kind of corner molding, which will cover up a bit.
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I would...
Start at the bottom.
Have the tongue upward.
Not share to avoid seams.
Use some form of nails, probably with a nail gun and...
Nail it into the wall studs, which are often at cc45 or 60.
Nail diagonally where the tongue sticks out and into the stud.
Cut to length with a miter/chop saw.
Type
Start at the bottom.
Have the tongue upward.
Not share to avoid seams.
Use some form of nails, probably with a nail gun and...
Nail it into the wall studs, which are often at cc45 or 60.
Nail diagonally where the tongue sticks out and into the stud.
Cut to length with a miter/chop saw.
Type
Oh, thank you so much for such quick and detailed responses!!!
Then it will be full lengths! (the råspont itself is so cheap - 4.90 /m - so it doesn't matter if there's a little waste!!).
Follow-up question - What do I do by the radiator and a socket?
By the radiator, there's a cable that's attached to a radiator that needs space...
Maybe you can cut out a piece that you then put back...
As for the socket, I have no idea... I thought maybe I should ask an electrician to come and help me with it...
I don't have a compressor... Do you always need one for a brad nailer? Seems complicated... Is it difficult with those clips?
Otherwise, maybe you can pre-drill holes and nail it, so it should be a bit easier?
Now, I wasn't planning to put studs before but nail into the wall that already exists and hope for the best... (I don't really want it to build out too much)
But behind this, there should be studs, so you could try to hit them. Logically, they should be next to the window, for example?
Then it will be full lengths! (the råspont itself is so cheap - 4.90 /m - so it doesn't matter if there's a little waste!!).
Follow-up question - What do I do by the radiator and a socket?
By the radiator, there's a cable that's attached to a radiator that needs space...
Maybe you can cut out a piece that you then put back...
As for the socket, I have no idea... I thought maybe I should ask an electrician to come and help me with it...
I don't have a compressor... Do you always need one for a brad nailer? Seems complicated... Is it difficult with those clips?
Otherwise, maybe you can pre-drill holes and nail it, so it should be a bit easier?
Now, I wasn't planning to put studs before but nail into the wall that already exists and hope for the best... (I don't really want it to build out too much)
But behind this, there should be studs, so you could try to hit them. Logically, they should be next to the window, for example?
Regarding outlets and wire connections, you should make a hole in the panel the same size as the one in the wall and then move the outlet and junction box outward. Your electrician can easily handle this if you take care of the holes in the panel. Use a hole saw or jigsaw before attaching the panel to get a nice hole.
A finish nailer without a compressor is best used as a paperweight or bookend. If you can't get a gas-powered one – for the same money you can get both a compressor and a regular finish nailer.
Panel clips are easy to use but can be a bit fiddly. With panel clips, you must place the tongue upwards, otherwise, it becomes difficult to attach them. If you want to skip the panel clips, it's possible to nail by hand with a hammer and countersink if you take it slow. But if you had a compressor and a finish nailer, it would go much faster.
Edit: If you don't want to nail at all, maybe construction adhesive would work. It's a bit of a hassle to restore the wall, but it could be an option. Not something I've tested, though.
A finish nailer without a compressor is best used as a paperweight or bookend. If you can't get a gas-powered one – for the same money you can get both a compressor and a regular finish nailer.
Panel clips are easy to use but can be a bit fiddly. With panel clips, you must place the tongue upwards, otherwise, it becomes difficult to attach them. If you want to skip the panel clips, it's possible to nail by hand with a hammer and countersink if you take it slow. But if you had a compressor and a finish nailer, it would go much faster.
Edit: If you don't want to nail at all, maybe construction adhesive would work. It's a bit of a hassle to restore the wall, but it could be an option. Not something I've tested, though.
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Again, THANK YOU! I've somewhat given up on the idea of a dykerpicka and am now leaning towards buying a really good hammer instead. I've heard there's a big difference, and the ones I have are cheap alternatives.
Any tips on a really good hammer and roughly what such a hammer costs?
I also heard a friend used screws instead - apparently to easily take down the wall. What do you think about that? Screwing up the panel with a screwdriver? Might be hard to make it look nice?
Even more questions..
Is it best to paint the panel before I put it up?
Does white opaque stain sound like something that could work well?
Should I use water-based to avoid a blinding headache?
And do you think it's enough with knot sealer and then about two layers of opaque stain? Or should I also apply a primer?
When I start from the bottom, can I start directly at the floor or should I leave a gap for the wall to move?
If I nail or screw at an angle into the tongue, I can only put the screw or nail in the upper part of the board. Isn't there a risk that the lower and first board will become loose?
What length of screws or nails would be appropriate?
Any tips on a really good hammer and roughly what such a hammer costs?
I also heard a friend used screws instead - apparently to easily take down the wall. What do you think about that? Screwing up the panel with a screwdriver? Might be hard to make it look nice?
Even more questions..
Is it best to paint the panel before I put it up?
Does white opaque stain sound like something that could work well?
Should I use water-based to avoid a blinding headache?
And do you think it's enough with knot sealer and then about two layers of opaque stain? Or should I also apply a primer?
When I start from the bottom, can I start directly at the floor or should I leave a gap for the wall to move?
If I nail or screw at an angle into the tongue, I can only put the screw or nail in the upper part of the board. Isn't there a risk that the lower and first board will become loose?
What length of screws or nails would be appropriate?
Unless you are a professional carpenter, I would skip the hammer, no matter how expensive it is. Rent an air compressor and a nail gun instead, you should manage in one or two days depending on how much thinking you need to do. I think I read something about sloped ceilings, so rent a miter saw while you're at it. And make sure to have some extra planks in case of mistakes, it's a drag to have to go back to the lumberyard when you're "on a roll."
That way you'll get a good result so you won't be discouraged next time.
That way you'll get a good result so you won't be discouraged next time.
Screwing works just as well, just make sure to find good screws for the purpose so that the entire head can be countersunk without splitting the wood. When using concealed fastening with tongue and groove wood, you only attach the part that is exposed. The tongue and groove fit so tightly that there is no gap.
I think tallmilan is exaggerating a bit about nailing. You absolutely don't need to be a cabinetmaker to drive a nail into a tongue or panel clips, as long as you take it easy. But it takes a lot more time, and if you think it's worth the extra money to do something else, then you can rent a compressor and a brad nailer.
I have installed beadboard in ceilings with panel clips and I am definitely not a cabinetmaker. Now that I've gotten a brad nailer, I will never bother with clips again.
I'm also completely convinced that you can make a straight cut (even at an angle) with a regular handsaw of decent quality.
We have painted with knot sealer and then water-based primer and lacquer paint from Beckers if I remember correctly.
I think tallmilan is exaggerating a bit about nailing. You absolutely don't need to be a cabinetmaker to drive a nail into a tongue or panel clips, as long as you take it easy. But it takes a lot more time, and if you think it's worth the extra money to do something else, then you can rent a compressor and a brad nailer.
I have installed beadboard in ceilings with panel clips and I am definitely not a cabinetmaker. Now that I've gotten a brad nailer, I will never bother with clips again.
I'm also completely convinced that you can make a straight cut (even at an angle) with a regular handsaw of decent quality.
We have painted with knot sealer and then water-based primer and lacquer paint from Beckers if I remember correctly.
Hmm.. I might be a bit slow because I don't really understand how to attach that hidden fastening.. But you can do this even if you're screwing? I'll check to make sure I get the right screws!
Regarding the gap, I mean the board you start with, the one that's at the bottom by the floor. But you install a baseboard over it later, so that should hold it in place I assume!
Regarding nailing, it's only about 40 meters.. So it's not that much nailing, in other words. Besides, I got a nail set when I worked on the moldings in my latest project, so I should be able to handle this too, hopefully.. But the screwdriver would probably have been even handier to use!
I have a miter saw, a Biltema variant, but I think it might be too weak for this (it's not an electric one). But on the other hand, it worked to saw the click flooring with a square and a regular saw, so it should work with the panel too! I even bought a couple of clamps to make it easier! And I am going to put up moldings, so it's not the end of the world if it's not perfect.
Regarding the gap, I mean the board you start with, the one that's at the bottom by the floor. But you install a baseboard over it later, so that should hold it in place I assume!
Regarding nailing, it's only about 40 meters.. So it's not that much nailing, in other words. Besides, I got a nail set when I worked on the moldings in my latest project, so I should be able to handle this too, hopefully.. But the screwdriver would probably have been even handier to use!
I have a miter saw, a Biltema variant, but I think it might be too weak for this (it's not an electric one). But on the other hand, it worked to saw the click flooring with a square and a regular saw, so it should work with the panel too! I even bought a couple of clamps to make it easier! And I am going to put up moldings, so it's not the end of the world if it's not perfect.
I am convinced that it will turn out great. Don't forget to take pictures and post them in the thread so we can see how it goes.
For the first board, you might want to attach it with regular nailing where the moldings will cover the nail heads.
Since a picture says more than a bunch of words, I'll include an image of hidden fastening.
Don't forget to take pictures and post them in the thread so we can see how it goes.For the first board, you might want to attach it with regular nailing where the moldings will cover the nail heads.
Since a picture says more than a bunch of words, I'll include an image of hidden fastening.
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THANK YOU!! As they say, a picture says more than a thousand words! Now I think I get it!! Considering trying to take the day off work tomorrow so I can get started!
A friend suggested painting with regular white matte wall paint 7 - I have lots of it at home since I'm painting the other walls with it, so I'm going to try painting a board to see how it turns out (when the boards cost just over 16-17 SEK each, you can afford to test!). They had used this paint on their board walls without using knot sealer with good results. I think I'll use knot sealer just to be safe but will try this paint since it's an incredibly cheap option!
Then it's just a good hammer and nails that need to be acquired!
Another friend recommended that you should have nails three times as long as the thickness of the board, do you agree with that?
I can't find the studs by knocking on the wall, but since the window occupies a large part of the wall, one can assume there are studs on the sides and underneath it. Otherwise, the wall feels pretty stable to nail into. We'll see...
Promise to update with pictures! Thank you so much for taking the time!!!!
A friend suggested painting with regular white matte wall paint 7 - I have lots of it at home since I'm painting the other walls with it, so I'm going to try painting a board to see how it turns out (when the boards cost just over 16-17 SEK each, you can afford to test!). They had used this paint on their board walls without using knot sealer with good results. I think I'll use knot sealer just to be safe but will try this paint since it's an incredibly cheap option!
Then it's just a good hammer and nails that need to be acquired!
Another friend recommended that you should have nails three times as long as the thickness of the board, do you agree with that?
I can't find the studs by knocking on the wall, but since the window occupies a large part of the wall, one can assume there are studs on the sides and underneath it. Otherwise, the wall feels pretty stable to nail into. We'll see...
Promise to update with pictures! Thank you so much for taking the time!!!!
I expressed myself a bit clumsily, I mean that there's not much use in having an extra expensive hammer if you're not a professional carpenter. But I still think it's a better idea to rent proper tools because in the beginning, planning takes a long time and it can be helpful to complete other tasks a bit faster.joflopp said:
A bit off topic but still.. Regarding the knot varnish - What solution do you use to clean the brushes from it?
And how should it be stored best between applications - if it will be used again?
Some time ago, I think I tried cleaning with white spirit, which resulted in a sticky mess that wouldn't go away...
Yesterday, I put the brush in a jar with water because I thought it would keep the moisture without absorbing it since it's oil and wouldn't spontaneously combust...
Today, the same brush is hard as a rock.. q(;^p
I usually store the other brushes in a plastic bag between paintings, but I'm really worried when it comes to knot varnish due to the risk of spontaneous combustion...
And how should it be stored best between applications - if it will be used again?
Some time ago, I think I tried cleaning with white spirit, which resulted in a sticky mess that wouldn't go away...
Yesterday, I put the brush in a jar with water because I thought it would keep the moisture without absorbing it since it's oil and wouldn't spontaneously combust...
Today, the same brush is hard as a rock.. q(;^
pI usually store the other brushes in a plastic bag between paintings, but I'm really worried when it comes to knot varnish due to the risk of spontaneous combustion...
Okay, I'll think about it. Do you have any idea where they usually rent those out and roughly what it might or usually costs?tallmilan said:
As I said, it's only about 40 linear meters, guessing maybe 3-4 square, so it's not tons of nails. But sure, it can definitely be tiring enough!!
The risk of spontaneous combustion only exists when you're dealing with linolja. "Regular" paints don't have this problem. If you're using water-based paint, you can wrap the brush in something like plastic wrap or another airtight material to prevent air from reaching the bristles. This way, you can use the same brush/roller the entire time you're painting with the same color.
When it's time to clean your brushes, check the paint can for instructions on what to use. Water-based paints are cleaned with water, and solvent-based paints with paint thinner—simplifying it a bit.
Rental places - Cramo is a classic rental company but primarily caters to professionals. While you don't have either Bauhaus or K-rauta in Kristianstad, if there is another large hardware store nearby, check with them; they usually offer rentals.
When it's time to clean your brushes, check the paint can for instructions on what to use. Water-based paints are cleaned with water, and solvent-based paints with paint thinner—simplifying it a bit.
Rental places - Cramo is a classic rental company but primarily caters to professionals. While you don't have either Bauhaus or K-rauta in Kristianstad, if there is another large hardware store nearby, check with them; they usually offer rentals.