How to drill 60mm hole for the spotlights?

[savio]

In the new kitchen, the electricians have cut out a 60mm hole (in the cover panel) where they have installed the spotlights. However, it is not deep enough even though the hole goes through the entire cover panel, there is still about 3mm missing.

What I need to do now is somehow chamfer 3 mm into the next panel that sits over the cover panel without damaging the surrounding area.

I don't have a drill that is 60mm directly, what's the easiest way to do it? Thinking about manually gouging it out with something, does that sound sensible?

 

[mexitegel]

60 mm dosing drill and chisel and a large bowl of patience.

Or you can also put on extension rings.

 

[Paul-Staffanstorp]

Are you really sure that those spotlights are meant for that type of installation?

Normally, the spotlights that are built into the cabinets are 54mm in diameter and only 12mm deep...

How have they managed the cable routing?
Normally, the spotlights are cut out and mounted before attaching the spotlight panel under the cabinets, so that you can run the cables up behind the cabinets and above them where the transformers are placed behind the ceiling connection.

 

[savio]

Are you really sure that those spots are meant for that type of installation? Normally, the spots you build into under the upper cabinets are 54mm in diameter and only 12mm deep....

Yes, they are supposed to be for built-in installation, the built-in measurement is 18mm but the board (which I have now made holes in) is no more than 13 or 14mm thick. The hole measurement is 60mm (the width, that is).

How have they solved the cable routing? Normally, you cut out and mount the spots before you fasten the spot panel under the cabinets, so you can run the cables up behind the cabinets and on top of them where you place the transformers behind the ceiling connection.

The electrician has milled a groove in the top board where the wires go out behind the cabinets, which is a very good solution.

Clarification: The first cover panel (which now has holes in it) is 13 or 14mm thick. Then there is the second board that I haven't made any holes in yet, the only thing done in this board is that the electrician has milled grooves for the cables.

But what do I do? Should I try to carve out a few more mm in the next board? If so, how? Or should I give up and buy new spots (the downside is that it costs money and I have to bring the electrician here again, which is not free either).

 

[savio]

60 mm hole saw and chisel and a big bowl of patience.

Or you can use extension rings instead.

I've looked at one of those, but it seems like the center screw in the hole saw goes quite a lot further in than the actual 60mm depth of the hole saw? The risk then is that I make a hole through the entire board and it's not nice to have a hole up into the cabinet.

 

[Marive]

If you have the cover plate mounted with a 60 mm hole through it, you can drill without a center bit; the drill is supported by the existing hole. Mark with tape on the drill how deep you want to go.

 

[savio]

If you have the cover plate mounted with a 60 mm hole through it, you can go without a center drill, the drill gets support from the existing hole. Mark with tape on the drill how deep you want to go.

That actually sounds very good if it can be solved that way.
Where can I get one with a diameter of 60mm?
What are they called, socket drill? Doesn't seem to find much on that.

 

[Sam_u_El]

Search for dosfräs or hole saw.

 

[savio]

Search for "dosfräs" or "hole saw."

Hole saw gave many results. Found this one at Jula: http://www.jula.se/halsag-125199

Available in 60mm for 63kr.

Do you simply attach this to a regular drill?

EDIT: Also found a set at Biltema for 60kr. Can't find a direct link but www.biltema.se Art No. 20-178

The question is if you can block the drill there so that it doesn't make a hole straight through the panel?

 

[danne007]

It is probably mounted on a centrumborr.

 

[Sam_u_El]

On the ones I have, you can adjust the depth of the pilot drill. You can't completely remove it since it's what you attach to the drill. As a "makeshift" solution, you might be able to reverse the pilot drill and have the pointed end in the chuck to get a hole saw without a pilot drill.

 

[savio]

On the ones I have, you can adjust the depth of the center drill bit. You can't remove it completely because that's what you need to attach to the drill. As a "makeshift solution," maybe you can turn the center drill bit around and have the pointed end in the chuck to get a hole saw without a center drill bit.

I'm leaning towards buying that set at Biltema and somehow trying to disable the center drill bit. In the worst case, you can cut it off at the very tip so that it doesn't go too deep into the board.

 

[Pucco]

Router with a groove cutter and run around the entire bottom. http://www.clasohlson.se/Product/Product.aspx?id=134177137

Cylinder drill and drill multiple times until the surface is covered. http://www.biltema.se/Archive\Product_images\16\Large\16-231_l.jpg

 

[mexitegel]

I'm leaning towards buying that set at Biltema and somehow trying to remove the centering drill from use. In the worst case, you might have to saw it off at the end so it doesn't go too deep into the board.

It looks very similar to the set I have from Clasohlsson (which doesn't include the 60mm), but the drill is in its own mount. The hole saw has its own attachment that goes into the chuck.

 

[savio]

It looks very similar to the set I have from Clasohlsson (which doesn't include exactly 60mm) but there, the drill is in a separate attachment. The hole saw has its own attachment that is inserted into the chuck.

That’s great if you don't need the center drill itself.

I was thinking you might start with 60mm, then 54mm, then 41mm, and finally 22mm. Then, take the chisel and remove all the edges in between. Does that sound like a viable technique?