I did a bit of Googling about soundproofing in interior walls. One site showed an image suggesting that you could potentially have vertical studs as well, known as kortling...
The question is then, whether it would be beneficial in terms of soundproofing. Also, at what heights are these usually installed so the next person isn't completely confused when trying to hang something on the walls, and there are studs at different heights...
The question is then, whether it would be beneficial in terms of soundproofing. Also, at what heights are these usually installed so the next person isn't completely confused when trying to hang something on the walls, and there are studs at different heights...
Kortlingar in walls are horizontal, right?Yrrol said:Googled a bit about soundproofing in interior walls. A page showed in a picture that you could possibly have vertical studs too, so-called kortling...
The question is whether it would be useful in terms of soundproofing. Also, what heights are usually set so the next person doesn't get completely confused when they're putting something on the walls and there are studs all over the place...
The simplest soundproofing is double-layered materials, as heavy as possible. Therefore, use double drywall for the best soundproofing, but OSB/plywood/chipboard with drywall gives almost as good soundproofing while improving (or especially simplifying) the hanging of items on the wall. We will use OSB (or maybe chipboard) + drywall on all walls for this reason.
If you need even better soundproofing, you have to go for brick or cast materials or more layers of drywall or double-studded walls (where the studs for each wall do not contact each other) or a combination of these techniques.
oh, yes I wrote it wrong, of course I meant horizontally.
The painter reacted negatively to OSB - claimed that the surface was rough and meant a lot of work for him?
The painter reacted negatively to OSB - claimed that the surface was rough and meant a lot of work for him?
Yes, OSB is crap as a surface facing the room. It should not be used like that.
I think gypsum is the surface you should have facing the room, which you then paint or wallpaper (though not everyone agrees, some surely prefer, for example, particleboard).
Then you either have single gypsum or additional boards underneath.
And the options are double gypsum, particleboard, OSB, råspont, or plyfa to have underneath.
I think gypsum is the surface you should have facing the room, which you then paint or wallpaper (though not everyone agrees, some surely prefer, for example, particleboard).
Then you either have single gypsum or additional boards underneath.
And the options are double gypsum, particleboard, OSB, råspont, or plyfa to have underneath.
I was sitting and thinking, playing with the idea of having 6mm gypsum combined with 6-7mm of a harder material... but didn't really find anything and it would spiral out in price...
Is it so terrible to use only 13mm gypsum that it would be worth it?
Is it so terrible to use only 13mm gypsum that it would be worth it?
Single-layer drywall is a perfectly acceptable solution; it doesn't get cheaper or simpler. Most house manufacturers offer only single-layer drywall as standard. However, better soundproofing does require a bit more.
Bracing serves no purpose unless you already know in advance that you will mount something heavy. Yes, in bathrooms it's good to brace even if the items aren't heavy, as it's the only way to ensure the silicone seals properly.
6mm drywall isn't cheaper than regular drywall, so if you have no issue with the room becoming a few millimeters shorter, there's no point.
Bracing serves no purpose unless you already know in advance that you will mount something heavy. Yes, in bathrooms it's good to brace even if the items aren't heavy, as it's the only way to ensure the silicone seals properly.
6mm drywall isn't cheaper than regular drywall, so if you have no issue with the room becoming a few millimeters shorter, there's no point.
Mikael_L
I must recommend you to avoid the chipboard in your walls because its load-bearing capacity is so poor... q(;^p
OSB or preferably plyfa behind the plasterboard is the ultimate... d^_^b
I must recommend you to avoid the chipboard in your walls because its load-bearing capacity is so poor... q(;^
pOSB or preferably plyfa behind the plasterboard is the ultimate... d^_^b
In regular interior walls where hardly more than a painting will sometimes be hung, it probably doesn't matter, so it can likely become purely a price question.
However, you can vary by using particle board in the bedrooms and plywood in the kitchen and laundry room, etc.
Then, of course, there are different qualities of the various boards; there is bad, good, or very good particle board, Bauhaus budget plywood or construction plywood, and OSB is available in three quality classes. I'm not entirely sure that the best particle board would be worse than the worst OSB on any single point. (But now it's a price question again)
So it's not so one-dimensional ...
However, you can vary by using particle board in the bedrooms and plywood in the kitchen and laundry room, etc.
Then, of course, there are different qualities of the various boards; there is bad, good, or very good particle board, Bauhaus budget plywood or construction plywood, and OSB is available in three quality classes. I'm not entirely sure that the best particle board would be worse than the worst OSB on any single point. (But now it's a price question again
)So it's not so one-dimensional ...
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6mm plyfa+6mm renovation plasterboard (were only the narrow dimensions to choose from).. would it be better than 13mm pure plasterboard..?
I don't really know, but I don't think so unless you glue the boards together.Yrrol said: