Building Materials and Construction Technology
mvs: Considering that the terrace will be 350 cm wide, maybe three posts are needed. What do you think about that? And how thick should the posts be? Is 120mm x 120mm suitable or is it excessive?
D09: a long straight plank to lean against did the trick also to get a straight edge =)
antnor: If the superstructure is made of wood, it can be solved with a standard basement floor as described on the träguiden http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup2spalt.aspx?id=4859&contextPage=5946
Bror: The spruce's branches are often small and round, the pine's are often slightly elongated. Newly sawn or planed, the spruce is lighter. You can also use your nose and smell a freshly sawn surface, there is a clear difference in scent between spruce and pine.
putte82: Hello! I'm trying to figure out how to attach the styrofoam to the facade of my house. What I'm considering are long nails/screws with a large washer. But I'm a bit skeptical about how it would attach. The nails that came with the Platon mat didn't hold very well, in any case. Gluing might work better, but then it has to be held in place, and it's quite cumbersome and time-consuming. There are
Henrik.S: Attaching to the side is something I would prefer not to do. It wouldn't work with the type of railing we had in mind (like the one in the picture). The stairs are such that the top step is level with the hallway floor, and thus the step and stringer are in the way. But we have also considered other types of iron railings that would work with side mounting. The solution with a through-threaded
Jan-Å: I bought something at the paint store that I've forgotten the name of, something with onestep I think. Filled deep holes right along walls with a plastering, nothing that sank or required multiple applications and not a mortar that needed to be mixed and watered for several days.
A-Man_08: Although this one is more convenient, I'll see if I can order it from the USA.
lajsiiwan: Ask the supplier or read the instructions on the bag or whatever you used to cast the plate. But after maybe 3-4 days, it's probably risk-free.
MagnusRö: Yoohoo in the spring evening! Decorating an attic according to all the rules of the art, and it's according to the model with a warm roof, i.e., all the insulation lies between the roof rafters. The knee wall will be warm, so to speak. To my problem: How do you make the vapor barrier tight around old crooked and cracked beams? Cutting neatly and taping works somewhat, but it won't be tight in the
P-plats: Have found where the water seeped in and it turned out that the drainage is bad on one short side of the house. I can say it resulted in a lot more work, but now we're back on track and tomorrow we hope the drainage will be finished and I can return to replacing the threshold.
newbee: Thanks nils f for the good advice. / Daniel
Tony76: Hello. I live in a 1.5-story house where the upstairs is currently just a large room of 75 sqm. I'm planning to build interior walls now to create three bedrooms up there. I've found a bunch of different instructions for building inside walls, and it doesn't seem particularly complicated. My "problem," however, is that I'm not sure if I can follow these instructions since there are sloping
evoline: OK, thanks for all the help. Got a bit more understanding now. If there's anything I've forgotten, please let me know. Thanks
nikke: ok thanks! was recommended HEA200 by someone who calculated what we needed, but became a bit unsure when I read in another thread that IPE handled deflection better... but we'll go with HEA200...
RtZ: I've looked at those you recommended. I don't know why I was slightly more drawn to clix than falsat. But, I think the products appealed to me! Really nice! :) But before I abandon the metal sheets I opened the thread with, I'd like to ask more about sealing, etc. I read about the waterproofing Icopal Topsafe 3° which can be used on roofs with a slope down to 3 degrees. Is it possible to use
haavard: Without knowing, I still know that it is not load-bearing. The outer walls and the inner wall that runs parallel to them are, however, load-bearing.
klintruin: Choose the cheapest one that is plain, so it will be easy to clean, because it's a h-e to clean up after them.
fth: Hi Puskas! Yes, you should do that. The log wall will, as you say, move throughout the year, mostly downward in the form of slow settling that decreases over time, but also upwards in more humid weather. When you introduce vertical locking in the form of standing studs, one of two things will happen when the framework moves: 1. the stud framework gives in, the surface layers crack, etc. 2. the
Farzan: I also have an old house with a lot of wood in the walls... in my case, several layers of vertical and horizontal planks... which have been additionally insulated on the inside previously. And I've seen that the vapor barrier is very clumsily made and should leak like a sieve, but everywhere it looks completely healthy despite having been like that for almost thirty years. I believe, like some
Chris_Low: You should absolutely not screw the drywall into the stud if you have OSB behind it. And that thing with gaps you should take with a grain of salt, Imported is absolutely right.
Chris_Low: I used to hang my guitars on drywall before. Red wall plugs and 4X40 screws fit perfectly. The length doesn't matter. As it stands for you right now, brown wall plugs and 5x5 Spax should work well =)
Chris_Low: Drill the holes in the parquet larger where you need to attach the extensions. It works.
Bezt: If you buy a lot of timber at once, you can usually negotiate the price with the local building supplier, and they'll probably come under Byggmax's price, and certainly with better quality.
RtZ: My next technical problem is how to place the joists over the roof; across (the shorter stretch) or lengthwise (the longer stretch). I've never laid a roof before or even planned such a thing. The downside of laying them lengthwise, over the longer stretch, is the risk of sagging in the middle of the roof and the risk of the roof collapsing due to snow, etc. The downside of laying them across is
kinshasa: As a new homeowner - and there will probably be a bombardment of questions in the future - I thought I'd already initially ask if anyone can contribute ideas and suggestions in the following matter: In the garden, the previous owner cast an asymmetrical/oval birdbath in concrete with gently sloping edges and a round bowl-shaped bottom - about a meter wide and a few decimeters deep. With a playful
fredrik95: I had a load-bearing "Pizza arch" in a basement wall that I leveled with a 100mm HEA beam. I propped up the ceiling joists, knocked out the bricks, and installed the beam in the hole. Then I rented a Husqvarna K3000 Wet (http://se.husqvarnacp.com/node1552.aspx?nid=81107&pid=83290) from Ramirent and cut the right size in the wall. The cost was 700 SEK for the beam, 100 SEK for the props, and 500
Jan-Å: The stairs I have dealt with support themselves as mentioned, the stairs themselves are sufficient just like with a ladder. But of course, that staircase may have been built on site by someone who just placed steps between two walls, but you can see that if you remove the panel. The staircase cannot have the panel as a supporting part.