Building Materials and Construction Technology
nikke: how would an IPE200 work? how big would the difference be with this beam?
Hemmakatten: Not that we've built a chicken coop, but ever since our daughter started nagging about it when she attended agricultural high school (10 years ago), we've always had the idea to get chickens. Based on what I've read about chicken coops, oil-hardened Masonite would definitely be preferable. Regular Masonite absorbs moisture, which stays there, making it porous and wavy.
Nelianalle: We are about to build a porch with a balcony. Ideally, I would like to avoid having posts against the facade since I have two windows that will be right next to it, but the question is whether it can be made durable with only a carrying beam in the cornice and 2 or 4 posts at the front. The balcony will be about 4 m wide and 2 m deep. I would be very grateful for some suggestions…
Danjell: Thanks for the info! Fun with people who know their stuff.
anaitis: Ytong is a brand of lightweight concrete.
Saxpy: Need a bunch of carriage bolts M5x120 but can't find them anywhere. Anyone know where to get these in smaller quantities?
hakaner: Roof trusses can be dimensioned correctly whether you use C24 or C14 graded timber, the difference is that you need to use larger dimensions if you use C14 timber than C24... -Are there no construction drawings of the house? -If you want to be really sure, measure the trusses' geometry, dimensions, span, and any load-bearing central walls or similar. Then go to a truss designer and ask him to
khalba_halofa: Thanks for the help! Then I'll prime and pre-glue. Since these are closet doors, I don't need to worry about the seams, so it should be fine. Just wanted to know if they would fall down or not. Thanks!
H_L: Shouldn't be any problem doing that. When I added insulation to the house, I installed horizontal studs, put on a wind barrier, and then horizontal battens on top of that.
MaZtoR: http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/PageTwoColumn.aspx?id=1465 search there and see if you find anything.
anaitis: Place a backing on the exit side. A piece of wood held in place by some suitable construction. This way, you won't tear up the exit hole.
Berliner: Hello, if you want to clean the exterior walls, contact a seller of STO. They have a special sealing strip that sticks onto windows. There are many manufacturers that have MS 20. I meant Ljungbergs.dk MS 20 has the advantage of being very UV stable. I have personally installed windows with the Strongtiesystem, using those holders at the bottom. They are easy to install and additionally, you don't
hakaner: Clamp it under the innermost 45mm-rule (installation zone) You might need a sealing strip or glue to get it really tight?
calle336: Went to buy pressure-treated lumber this week. Compared prices and saw that Cheapy in town was half as expensive for these compared to Beijer. All were impregnated according to NTR/A (I believe that's what it's called). How is it that they can cost 194 SEK for 3m at one place and double at Beijer?? Doesn't class say anything? How deep they are impregnated or? Does anyone know about this?? Saw
Rocks: Hi! What makes more sense between a door frame and a wall spira? Building foam or wool??
Eljohan: http://www.iat.inadire.se/WebLagerbalk/Lagerbalk.aspx Here you can check beams in different constructions
Krawk: You still need something that holds the whole package together. (If it's a standard truss construction) I guess there are beams in the ceiling at each truss today? That is, what is black in the picture here: http://www.takstolsfabriken.com/takstolsvensk.shtml
Tornhuset: Hello! I was going to replace my basement door today, but behind the old frame "the wall fell apart." (It consists of so-called skrotsten (brick shards, etc.); the house is a hundred years old). To be able to fix the frame screws, I plan to plaster the areas where the wall has come loose. It is about 1 dm wide (like the frame) and at most three to four cm thick that I need to apply. Considering
dagodo: I am doing an extension. Today, I poured a concrete slab and then built up a foundation wall with lecablocks. I am building a crawl space. Now I plan to plaster the surface (slamma) to prevent water from penetrating the lecablocks. Then my plan was to place external insulation around the entire wall. There is also insulation under the concrete slab. How should I proceed? Should I attach, for
Maevr: I have a 1 1/2 story house with a balcony along the entire gable length, the foundation is a cast slab. The balcony is supported by two posts and the exterior wall, with a length of about 8000mm. I now want to remove the balcony by extending the exterior wall on the upper floor so that it is outside the load-bearing wall on the ground floor and preferably avoid the posts, i.e., a glulam beam or
Boan: have to check that, we have 2 load-bearing walls relatively symmetrically underneath. everything is a matter of forces and load, might as well brush up on the FEM knowledge a bit I suppose... the idea is two roof dormers as well.. so there will be more space, but it won't be more than a max of 2 m ceiling height in the middle, that's correct. but it should still be significantly cheaper than
dreamie: Hello. I had some craftspeople who fixed up the floor in my garage and laid floor tiles. Overall, I'm very satisfied with their work, but unfortunately, they made a real mistake. The original slab had a bevel where the garage door should be. For some unknown reason, the guys filled this bevel, which caused the self-leveling compound to come up over the facade. See image. [bild] This is obviously
byggare henke: there are special plugs for drywall mounting. glue and plug the drywall. so you get tight between the drywall and the wall. and you get a more secure attachment afterwards.
byggare henke: Sorry. I think you need to start with something.
Beppo: Great when it's cold and rainy outside. Just take a spin through the basement and into the car that maintains +12 when you drive out in -20. The downside is that you become too lazy to shovel before driving out, so you drive over two hard tracks. But it's really pleasant to come home when it's pouring rain and just press the remote and back in.
CarlMagnus: Hello! I've encountered a problem in my barn. The concrete foundations have started to give way slowly, and now I could use some input on how to fix it :wow: Does anyone have any ideas on how to lift this in a smart way? Thanks! /Carl
Sliparn: I have now consulted another construction master, according to him, this was not a good solution to attach a plank on one side of the truss to compensate for the sawed-off lower frame of the truss, it causes uneven load on the entire structure, but if you attach one on the other side, you get an even load again. It also doubles the strength at the notch for the beam. Additionally, he considered