Hello!
We made a bit of a mistake with our upper floor. Initially, we planned to have a family room on one side, but we have now decided to place our bedroom there instead. Our "master bathroom" is on the upper floor, so it makes more sense.
The floor is made of particleboard + click-in parquet and the walls are drywall + paintable wallpaper.
I'm planning to build the interior wall myself and insulate the drywall. An electrician will handle the wiring (moving some wall outlets).
DO I have to remove the parquet before I attach the studs? A professional probably has special tools for this, but as an enthusiastic amateur, I don't have those.
/Henrik
We made a bit of a mistake with our upper floor. Initially, we planned to have a family room on one side, but we have now decided to place our bedroom there instead. Our "master bathroom" is on the upper floor, so it makes more sense.
The floor is made of particleboard + click-in parquet and the walls are drywall + paintable wallpaper.
I'm planning to build the interior wall myself and insulate the drywall. An electrician will handle the wiring (moving some wall outlets).
DO I have to remove the parquet before I attach the studs? A professional probably has special tools for this, but as an enthusiastic amateur, I don't have those.
/Henrik
Personally, I would not build an interior wall on a floating click floor that moves.
One idea is to use a circular saw set to 14mm (if the parquet is 14mm) to cut a groove about 90mm wide (70mm stud + 10mm for the parquet to move on either side) where you attach the sole plate to the subfloor and build the wall along it.
Someone else might have a better idea.
One idea is to use a circular saw set to 14mm (if the parquet is 14mm) to cut a groove about 90mm wide (70mm stud + 10mm for the parquet to move on either side) where you attach the sole plate to the subfloor and build the wall along it.
Someone else might have a better idea.
I agree with gadu^, that's what I would have done! This is to allow the click flooring to move! If you nail or screw through the click flooring, there's a risk that the floor will buckle during temperature changes!
Okay, thanks for your answers. It will be necessary to draw very carefully on the floor beforehand. And try to get hold of a circular saw that can handle this. My brother only has one for about 150 kr, I've tried it once, completely useless.
/H
/H
If you follow the suggestion, you will have quite a large margin. Because then there will be boards on the outside, if you build with 1 layer of OSB and a layer of drywall on each side, the wall will be about 120mm, then a baseboard of 12mm on each side as well.
