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3 replies
21k views
3 replies
How to attach railing post to the floor for a sturdy railing?
I was planning to build a railing like this
http://www.nyasnick.se/imgPopup.asp?...rappracke2.jpg
in the hallway, leading to the basement stairs. But how do you attach the outermost post to the floor so that the railing stands sturdy? I was thinking of using a solid oak post, so ideally the attachment should be invisible if possible. Should I simply drill a round bar (like a rebar) vertically into the floor and slide the post onto it?
The railing needs to be 2.5 meters. Can I manage with just one post at the end, or do I need more to achieve reasonable stability?
http://www.nyasnick.se/imgPopup.asp?...rappracke2.jpg
in the hallway, leading to the basement stairs. But how do you attach the outermost post to the floor so that the railing stands sturdy? I was thinking of using a solid oak post, so ideally the attachment should be invisible if possible. Should I simply drill a round bar (like a rebar) vertically into the floor and slide the post onto it?
The railing needs to be 2.5 meters. Can I manage with just one post at the end, or do I need more to achieve reasonable stability?
A solution anyway.
2 posts are required, otherwise it will likely be shaky.
http://www.spikab.se/?p=79
Personally, I have attached a plate with 4 screws and a threaded rod straight up into the wood a few times and it becomes strong.
2 posts are required, otherwise it will likely be shaky.
http://www.spikab.se/?p=79
Personally, I have attached a plate with 4 screws and a threaded rod straight up into the wood a few times and it becomes strong.
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it will likely be wobbly no matter what you do if you only attach at one point "under" the post. It gets better when you can screw in from the side with two bolts (as they do on balcony railings nowadays). Doesn't that work in your case?
Attaching to the side is something I would prefer not to do. It wouldn't work with the type of railing we had in mind (like the one in the picture). The stairs are such that the top step is level with the hallway floor, and thus the step and stringer are in the way. But we have also considered other types of iron railings that would work with side mounting.
The solution with a through-threaded rod will probably also be difficult with a post in solid oak. But I found something in Lundberg's catalog that they call a "käppskruv," which is made for this purpose.
The plan as it stands now is to buy posts, upper and lower rails from Lundbergs, but instead of buying their railing spindles that cost 75 SEK each (about 25 needed), we will use cheaper stainless steel pipes cut to suitable lengths.
The solution with a through-threaded rod will probably also be difficult with a post in solid oak. But I found something in Lundberg's catalog that they call a "käppskruv," which is made for this purpose.
The plan as it stands now is to buy posts, upper and lower rails from Lundbergs, but instead of buying their railing spindles that cost 75 SEK each (about 25 needed), we will use cheaper stainless steel pipes cut to suitable lengths.
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