Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mikael_L: [citat] As far as I understand, yes. [citat] Don't know if this might help, but it's worth a try http://webtjanst.boverket.se/boverket/rattsinfoweb/vault/BKR%5CPDF%5C1993-58BKR1.pdf Chapter 5:41
Mikael_L: I find inner corners easiest to start with a cut board, straight, and accurately cut. Then you don't spackle this corner at all but simply use a thin acrylic sealant. edit: might work less well for a painted wall, without embedding a strip. But for a wallpapered wall, it's great. Outer corners with a metal angle are probably best with a beveled edge on both sides, as the beveling creates space
racer: It will probably hold up fine, but if you have wood that's so hard you can't screw into it, you probably won't be able to drive a single nail straight... I would guess your screw problems are more due to a weak screwdriver, bad/wrong screws, or bad bits! I've personally used Biltema's long screws in my rock-hard 3" walls from 1936 directly into knots, and with a screwdriver that drives 52nm, it's
bergbacken: I have built around a Handöl insert at home and have now reached the plastering stage. I stopped by Beijer the other day to "ask someone who knows;)" about the choice of plaster. Above the insert, I have placed a support plate on which I continued to build with lightweight concrete blocks to reduce the weight a bit. I asked at Beijer what type of plaster should be used since it will get quite
Leaff: but if I cut the pipes at the root and put down post shoes in the holes, what glue should be used?
Maveric77: Thanks for the link MaZtoR! There was a lot of useful information there! But if there is someone who has worked with Stucanet, do you think it would work just as well with chicken wire or equivalent?
Dagwood: Hello and thank you for all the answers. Sorry if I missed posting a thank you. Work has progressed at regular intervals and now it's time to deal with the floor. An update can be found at the following link http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/136684-renovera-hall.html#post1076022
Dagwood: Ok... so time for an update. I have been working when I've had time and been able to. We have crazy times when you can work here. Anyway, all the crap is pretty much gone. It is plastered and painted. pretty much done so now only the floor is missing in principle and there I don't know exactly how to proceed. Problem no.1 As can be seen from the first picture, the old linoleum tiles are wedged
Annelunn: I ran a circular saw parallel to the studs a few cm away and broke off piece by piece. Then I tidied up the studs with a knife and electric planer. All the studs survived but the phone cable had a close encounter when the depth adjustment on the circular saw gave way. Crowbar and circular saw, hammer and chisel. Knife. Worked for me.
hakaner: Check out White concrete, available in bags pre-mixed with aggregate. "just add water" Apparently, you'll get much sharper/finer colors if you use this cement when casting colored concrete... (White cement + white aggregate = white concrete) + Color pigments Check out this brochure: http://www.heidelbergcement.com/NR/rdonlyres/7E28C295-5422-48C7-A753-3D7F88909A69/0/individualD4_ny.pdf
anaitis: [citat] You set them in a zigzag - left/right - and nail straight through the beams.
Gurravasa: I wouldn't spend too much time trying to find the same floor. To make it look nice, you would still need to replace the floor up to natural transitions. A 7-year-old wooden floor doesn't look the same as a new one even if it's the same brand. The color changes and the surface wears out.
kuse: Hello, I am in the process of changing the facade of my house and have now reached the front where my front door is located. The problem is that the front door does not align with the facade; instead, there is a small extension from the facade of about 30 cm, where the front door is situated (see attached image). The first thing that comes to mind is to nail on paper and then put on a flashing
MaZtoR: If it is an uninsulated basement, you do not need a waterproofing layer. http://www.bkr.se/upload/branschregler/branschregler2007.pdf (page 7 images at the bottom)
TurboDykarn: Hand-scraped is what is most commonly done today; it gives a more genuine appearance, and when it comes to work on a villa, there is essentially no significant time difference!
JeRo: Hello everyone! I have a patio deck that needs walls and a roof for optimal functionality. To my question; the posts I need to install as the core of the structure, do I need to open up the floor to attach them to the joists, or is it sufficient to use some form of angle bracket that can be fastened through the decking and into the joists? Grateful for answers. //JeRo
MaZtoR: You can put together molds and cast slabs in exactly the size you want them.
FredrikR: Hi! Could it be this one you're thinking of: http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=35024 ?
Brandspec: Hello! On Tibnor's website, beam tables are available for download. In it, you can find all the cross-sectional constants you can think of for the following beam types: UPE beam IPE beam HEA beam HEB beam HEM beam VKR pipe KKR pipe Construction pipe Angle bar T-bar Flat, universal, square, and round bar
Eljohan: Have done it hundreds of times and there have never been any marks afterwards
Fredrik1976: Hi, I am in the process of building a veranda in turn-of-the-century style that matches the house. When I look at pictures of verandas from the early 1900s, they often have Type 4 cuttings for the roof beams. I was suggested by a carpenter to use 45X150, but I have a feeling it will feel "thin" at the eaves. My question is: is it possible to use something like Sparr 100x100? The span is about
swessman: looks like it will be a completely different solution anyway. will line up with battens to the same level as the plaster - where it's missing - and then screw drywall boards on top of everything
Tokv41: The brackets look like a "Z" but with right angles where one side is attached to the post and the remaining part forms a cleat where you can, for example, hang a beam. Anyone have any tips? I've searched at several hardware stores but none have had these brackets...