Hello!
I have a newly built (stood for 1 year) log structure in 2 floors, and on the upper floor, I plan to install an interior wall. My idea is to use 45x45 studs, insulation, and wood paneling. The question is: Do I need to take into account the potential movement of the timber when setting the studs? That is, do I need to avoid placing the studs flush against the wall and ceiling? Do I need to ensure that the log wall can move without affecting the wall? (maybe a bit unclear):S
I have a newly built (stood for 1 year) log structure in 2 floors, and on the upper floor, I plan to install an interior wall. My idea is to use 45x45 studs, insulation, and wood paneling. The question is: Do I need to take into account the potential movement of the timber when setting the studs? That is, do I need to avoid placing the studs flush against the wall and ceiling? Do I need to ensure that the log wall can move without affecting the wall? (maybe a bit unclear):S
Hi Puskas!
Yes, you should do that.
The log wall will, as you say, move throughout the year, mostly downward in the form of slow settling that decreases over time, but also upwards in more humid weather.
When you introduce vertical locking in the form of standing studs, one of two things will happen when the framework moves:
1. the stud framework gives in, the surface layers crack, etc.
2. the log framework "hangs up" on the vertical studs, creating gaps between the logs
Neither of these scenarios is particularly desirable.
On the other hand, it's not such a big deal to handle this; there are ready-made sliding brackets that you use to attach the upper end of the stud to the wall, or you can make your own solutions of various kinds that allow 1-2cm movement between the stud and the wall.
I have personally built a house with laminated beams, which move significantly less than fresh timber, but I am very glad that I made (almost) all vertical elements movable against the framework. In one place, I missed a bit in the measuring, so the framework has hung up on a door frame. There, I now have a 5-10mm gap between two beams, which means I will need to remount that door...:@
It's a bit like most things: do it right the first time so you don't have to redo it, because it's not fun at all!
Best regards,
/fth
Yes, you should do that.
The log wall will, as you say, move throughout the year, mostly downward in the form of slow settling that decreases over time, but also upwards in more humid weather.
When you introduce vertical locking in the form of standing studs, one of two things will happen when the framework moves:
1. the stud framework gives in, the surface layers crack, etc.
2. the log framework "hangs up" on the vertical studs, creating gaps between the logs
Neither of these scenarios is particularly desirable.
On the other hand, it's not such a big deal to handle this; there are ready-made sliding brackets that you use to attach the upper end of the stud to the wall, or you can make your own solutions of various kinds that allow 1-2cm movement between the stud and the wall.
I have personally built a house with laminated beams, which move significantly less than fresh timber, but I am very glad that I made (almost) all vertical elements movable against the framework. In one place, I missed a bit in the measuring, so the framework has hung up on a door frame. There, I now have a 5-10mm gap between two beams, which means I will need to remount that door...:@
It's a bit like most things: do it right the first time so you don't have to redo it, because it's not fun at all!
Best regards,
/fth