A tool like this works much better than a regular impact drill. However, it's not something to invest in for professional use. But if you only use it a couple of times a year, it will last a long time. http://www.jula.se/borrhammare-137393
Drill a new hole on the side instead of using a bunch of extra expensive drills. Consider how you think the rebar is positioned. For example, do not drill directly underneath or beside it as it usually forms a grid pattern.
Hi raveper:
That's exactly what I've tested. Trying to drill new holes at an angle, i.e., not vertically or horizontally. That's why I'm wondering if it really is rebar.
A bit curious about what it could be.
You can clearly see "gray-colored" metal shavings coming out when drilling. Rebar is usually orange/brown?
I don't know how apartments were built in the '70s. The building is 8 stories high. You can understand that sturdy materials are needed for stability. The first floor has to support 7 above it. But I don't know, I have no clue about hard materials in construction. Maybe some construction expert knows this?
Best regards
Sam
That's exactly what I've tested. Trying to drill new holes at an angle, i.e., not vertically or horizontally. That's why I'm wondering if it really is rebar.
A bit curious about what it could be.
You can clearly see "gray-colored" metal shavings coming out when drilling. Rebar is usually orange/brown?
I don't know how apartments were built in the '70s. The building is 8 stories high. You can understand that sturdy materials are needed for stability. The first floor has to support 7 above it. But I don't know, I have no clue about hard materials in construction. Maybe some construction expert knows this?
Best regards
Sam
Reinforcement bars are usually rust-colored when you see them, but that's just on the surface. They are "metal-colored" inside. Normally, houses are built of reinforced concrete, but the reinforcement isn't so dense that you would hit them more than a maximum of two times in a row (unless you're extremely unlucky). You might imagine having some larger steel girder there for some reason, in which case you may need to move a few decimeters outside to test. I don't know when prefabricated concrete elements began to be used on a large scale in Sweden, but it was probably in the 1960s; houses with steel frames weren't very common in residential buildings in the 1960s-70s. Even then, they were usually at most 20-30 cm wide.
Last edited:
A small update on what has happened:
Before I ran off to the hardware store, I found the following link (for those interested) about choosing a drill when drilling in metal.
http://www.ehow.com/list_6676350_drill-bits-drilling-metal_.html
Among other things, it says:
"Cobalt bits are the best choice for drilling holes in stainless steel and harder metals because they are stronger than HSS bits."
So I simply bought a cobalt drill for 50 :-!!!. The guy in the store said this was the strongest they had. Stronger than HSS and better than a titanium drill (since only the surface is titanium) whereas the cobalt drill is cobalt all the way through.
Once home, I followed his tips: (which have also been mentioned by some on the forum)
Drill at a low speed (800 rpm).
Do not press too hard, let the drill do the work
Cool it periodically. When it gets hot, the drilling ability worsens.
I went through like butter, simply put.
Put up shelves, pictures, curtains, etc. :wow:
Once again, I have solved problems with the help of competent and helpful people on the forum. Thanks everyone. d^_^bd^_^bd^_^b
I will not hesitate to start a new thread if I have questions in the future.
Before I ran off to the hardware store, I found the following link (for those interested) about choosing a drill when drilling in metal.
http://www.ehow.com/list_6676350_drill-bits-drilling-metal_.html
Among other things, it says:
"Cobalt bits are the best choice for drilling holes in stainless steel and harder metals because they are stronger than HSS bits."
So I simply bought a cobalt drill for 50 :-!!!. The guy in the store said this was the strongest they had. Stronger than HSS and better than a titanium drill (since only the surface is titanium) whereas the cobalt drill is cobalt all the way through.
Once home, I followed his tips: (which have also been mentioned by some on the forum)
Drill at a low speed (800 rpm).
Do not press too hard, let the drill do the work
Cool it periodically. When it gets hot, the drilling ability worsens.
I went through like butter, simply put.
Put up shelves, pictures, curtains, etc. :wow:
Once again, I have solved problems with the help of competent and helpful people on the forum. Thanks everyone. d^_^bd^_^bd^_^b
I will not hesitate to start a new thread if I have questions in the future.