Hello - I'm working on the sill replacement on two sides of our old (out)house. It had partially rotted due to a poor water board and leaves that had been against the wall for X number of years.
I have now supported and lifted the studs slightly with a jack, put in a new 95x45 sill with sill paper, and will attach it with an expansion bolt and square washer to the concrete base.
Unfortunately, the standing studs were also partially bad at the bottom, against the sill. So I need to cut a few centimeters off the bottom of several of them. Additionally, the old sill was 50 mm compared to 45 mm for the new one, so I need to support the studs anyway (perhaps shimming would have been enough if it was only 5 mm). The question is just how to do it.
In the picture below, the variants I have in mind are shown - any idea which is best?
I also have a slight tilt on the house, which is barely noticeable but might have been caused by the bad studs. Do you think it could be counteracted with braces between the studs (half the house is uninsulated, so I can access the framework from the inside anyway) or is the horizontal planking I plan to nail on the studs from the inside after insulating enough? Braces and also nogging will complicate insulation with loose fill, which I plan to do next year...
Grateful for any answers!
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I have now supported and lifted the studs slightly with a jack, put in a new 95x45 sill with sill paper, and will attach it with an expansion bolt and square washer to the concrete base.
Unfortunately, the standing studs were also partially bad at the bottom, against the sill. So I need to cut a few centimeters off the bottom of several of them. Additionally, the old sill was 50 mm compared to 45 mm for the new one, so I need to support the studs anyway (perhaps shimming would have been enough if it was only 5 mm). The question is just how to do it.
In the picture below, the variants I have in mind are shown - any idea which is best?
I also have a slight tilt on the house, which is barely noticeable but might have been caused by the bad studs. Do you think it could be counteracted with braces between the studs (half the house is uninsulated, so I can access the framework from the inside anyway) or is the horizontal planking I plan to nail on the studs from the inside after insulating enough? Braces and also nogging will complicate insulation with loose fill, which I plan to do next year...
Grateful for any answers!
/A
Diagonal braces?
You can buy metal strips (perforated straps) that you should be able to run diagonally across the entire wall.
Otherwise, the middle solution probably works the worst.
There's no need for great precision in the whole thing. Make sure there's support downward and that it is reasonably secured.
The right solution looks unnecessarily complicated. It should basically suffice with the horizontal piece, and then you attach everything together.
You can buy metal strips (perforated straps) that you should be able to run diagonally across the entire wall.
Otherwise, the middle solution probably works the worst.
There's no need for great precision in the whole thing. Make sure there's support downward and that it is reasonably secured.
The right solution looks unnecessarily complicated. It should basically suffice with the horizontal piece, and then you attach everything together.
Thanks for the response! Yes, I might make an L under the cut beam then - Lift it a mm with the jack first, so you can fit in the horizontal piece. Nail/screw against the sill and then skew nail the standing piece against the horizontal one and fasten the beam to it. Alternatively, slide in a piece of standing beam under the cut one and then just use angle brackets on both sides, against the sill and the beam/additional piece...
Thanks for the tip about strap band - a couple of those in a cross should provide good stability before I nail the panel/tongue and groove against the beams.
Best regards,
A
Thanks for the tip about strap band - a couple of those in a cross should provide good stability before I nail the panel/tongue and groove against the beams.
Best regards,
A
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Ok, connector plate, but then you might as well use angle iron, so you can screw it to the sill (in addition to the stud) from the top.
And I've thought about wedges (good idea to take one from each side though), but it feels like the fewer parts you need, the better. With a hydraulic jack, you should be able to just cut the piece a mm too thick (ok, you never get that precision), then lift and press it in.
If the splice pieces are small, it might be a good idea to let them soak in a bucket of wood oil I have standing as extra moisture protection at the bottom...
Perforated band for sure!
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And I've thought about wedges (good idea to take one from each side though), but it feels like the fewer parts you need, the better. With a hydraulic jack, you should be able to just cut the piece a mm too thick (ok, you never get that precision), then lift and press it in.
If the splice pieces are small, it might be a good idea to let them soak in a bucket of wood oil I have standing as extra moisture protection at the bottom...
Perforated band for sure!
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Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 048 posts
If it's long pieces that need replacing, option 1 is to cut straight without a notch. Option 3 is for short pieces that need replacing, but the blocks on the side, nail plates, and angle irons are unnecessary. Skew the posts to fasten them.
To attach the sill to the concrete, it's better to use expanding nails rather than expanding (screws). Just drill and hammer them in; I was skeptical the first time I tried, but they work great.
The diagonal bracing can be done with rough sheathing, place it at an angle, 30 degrees might be enough. You can also use plywood or OSB to brace it.
Protte
To attach the sill to the concrete, it's better to use expanding nails rather than expanding (screws). Just drill and hammer them in; I was skeptical the first time I tried, but they work great.
The diagonal bracing can be done with rough sheathing, place it at an angle, 30 degrees might be enough. You can also use plywood or OSB to brace it.
Protte
But if I want the tongue and groove boards visible, you probably don't want to install them crooked, right?
However, I had considered installing horizontal battens (with insulation underneath), and then vertical tongue and groove on them, which should provide reinforcement. Or crosswise metal straps and horizontal tongue and groove directly on the studs. But anyway - if you nail 22 mm tongue and groove boards onto the studs, that should be enough, I think.
Regarding wall plate attachment, I had decided on concrete expanders, but the somewhat porous lime mortar makes me hesitate. I checked fischer's expander nails, and one can't help but be skeptical, a small metal sleeve, can it really work? (it says "for simple and quick attachments" Not a priority when I have eight...)
Maybe it's best with threaded rod in anchor compound (Gunnebo/fischer) where it doesn't matter if the hole isn't perfect. It's just important to get the holes clean, and then you probably have to buy a compressor...:S
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However, I had considered installing horizontal battens (with insulation underneath), and then vertical tongue and groove on them, which should provide reinforcement. Or crosswise metal straps and horizontal tongue and groove directly on the studs. But anyway - if you nail 22 mm tongue and groove boards onto the studs, that should be enough, I think.
Regarding wall plate attachment, I had decided on concrete expanders, but the somewhat porous lime mortar makes me hesitate. I checked fischer's expander nails, and one can't help but be skeptical, a small metal sleeve, can it really work? (it says "for simple and quick attachments" Not a priority when I have eight...)
Maybe it's best with threaded rod in anchor compound (Gunnebo/fischer) where it doesn't matter if the hole isn't perfect. It's just important to get the holes clean, and then you probably have to buy a compressor...:S
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Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 048 posts
Why not crooked, there is a house in Umeå (now rebuilt) but it had the cladding at a 45-degree angle.
I had thought about creating a thread on how to remove an expansion nail (purely hypothetical) because I think it is very difficult.
If it's poor concrete/mortar, then chemical anchor is the right way.
Protte
I had thought about creating a thread on how to remove an expansion nail (purely hypothetical) because I think it is very difficult.
If it's poor concrete/mortar, then chemical anchor is the right way.
Protte
Creative with a slanted panel for stability, I'll give them that... 
Okay, the expanding nail might be tougher than it looks after all.
Check this out with anchor mass, pretty neat I think: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQcBEoWJNzk
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Okay, the expanding nail might be tougher than it looks after all.
Check this out with anchor mass, pretty neat I think: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQcBEoWJNzk
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Anchoring mortar is "damn strong" and convenient to use but also "damn expensive" and must be used quickly. It cures just as fast in the nozzle as in the hole. Definitely overkill for attaching a sill. However, I have used it to secure heavy items to a concrete ceiling. It's entirely possible to hang 400Kg per fixing compared to maybe 40Kg if it's screw and plug.
Anchoring mortar is also good if you want to extend a basement wall or retaining wall and want to avoid cracks at the joint. Drill holes horizontally into the existing wall and attach the rebar used to reinforce the new wall with the help of anchoring mortar.
Anchoring mortar is also good if you want to extend a basement wall or retaining wall and want to avoid cracks at the joint. Drill holes horizontally into the existing wall and attach the rebar used to reinforce the new wall with the help of anchoring mortar.
Then I will make sure we use it when I build the retaining wall from the basement wall this coming week.
On Fischer Vs 300 it says that it can be applied at different times, as long as you tighten the cap (?) after use. Nozzles can be bought separately at Beijer.
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On Fischer Vs 300 it says that it can be applied at different times, as long as you tighten the cap (?) after use. Nozzles can be bought separately at Beijer.
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Anchor mortar is great, buy Sika at Hornbach, or Biltema's anchor mortar... good prices at both. I fastened rebar to the rock for plinths, and after a few hours, you could hit the bars with a sledgehammer without them moving
Then I'm going to throw in a note regarding the standing studs... my father-in-law renovated completely rotten timber almost 6 years ago, and instead of replacing the rotten timber, he made sure it was completely dry first, then let it soak up runny two-component epoxy glue so the wood became saturated with it. Once it cured, it was harder than concrete, and that wood will never rot again Could be an unorthodox solution?
Then I'm going to throw in a note regarding the standing studs... my father-in-law renovated completely rotten timber almost 6 years ago, and instead of replacing the rotten timber, he made sure it was completely dry first, then let it soak up runny two-component epoxy glue so the wood became saturated with it. Once it cured, it was harder than concrete, and that wood will never rot again
Could be an unorthodox solution?Ok, interesting that there was biltema anchor adhesive. It is a bit annoyingly expensive otherwise.
I have now repaired/smoothed the base where the sill is supposed to stand, it needs to dry/cure before I mount the sill over the weekend. I'm leaning towards the anchor adhesive or expanders due to old mortar and being quite close to the edge, which might be risky if using some form of expander.
Share that one about epoxy-saturated wood in the Building Restoration forum section!
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I have now repaired/smoothed the base where the sill is supposed to stand, it needs to dry/cure before I mount the sill over the weekend. I'm leaning towards the anchor adhesive or expanders due to old mortar and being quite close to the edge, which might be risky if using some form of expander.
Share that one about epoxy-saturated wood in the Building Restoration forum section!
/A
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Hornbach is only a few kronor more expensive for Sika's chemical anchor as well... depending on what's closest. The building conservation forum presumably has an automatic screening function that filters out everything not spelled "Linolja", boiled, cold, or raw...