Both options are good, though I imagine that asfaboard can increase insulation a little bit and therefore I would choose it. You nail the asfaboard with roofing nails (large flat head). You fasten the exterior gypsum board with drywall screws.
They will probably withstand an entire winter - but to be on the safe side, staple some protective plastic over them as a safeguard for when it gets above freezing and wet - as long as it's below freezing, nothing happens to them.
They will probably withstand an entire winter - but to be on the safe side, staple some protective plastic over them as a safeguard for when it gets above freezing and wet - as long as it's below freezing, nothing happens to them.
It works to nail the outdoor gypsum as well; it goes fast with the help of a nail gun. But after all, it's easier to handle the asfaboard since it weighs less than the gypsum, so I would go with that. As Tyresö writes, the asfaboard probably provides some insulation too, not a huge amount but more than the gypsum.
Then the asfaboard costs almost twice as much as the outside gypsum (119:- versus 69
And I think, subjectively, that the gypsum feels more stable in all directions.
//KoW
And I think, subjectively, that the gypsum feels more stable in all directions.
//KoW
Agree with KnockOnWood, especially since I think the price plays a big role and when asfaborden is often almost twice as expensive I wouldn't choose that option. It depends on how much you need.
What's wrong with wind barrier paper? Can someone explain what you gain and lose with the different options - paper, gypsum, asfabord technically? It feels like a sheet material provides more lateral stability, but is there anything else to consider?
Why do you nail exterior gypsum when you screw interior gypsum?
/Anders
Why do you nail exterior gypsum when you screw interior gypsum?
/Anders
The windproof paper is quite fragile, so I don't want large spans with it. It also can't withstand being exposed unprotected for any extended period; mainly due to wind. Otherwise, you have the wind fabric as a more modern option. Its major advantage is that it goes so quickly. You can weatherproof walls in under an hour. It is much more durable than the paper, but the downside here too is that you don't get any bracing of the frame.Anders_Nilsson said:
Asfaboard is lightweight in terms of weight. A great advantage if you're working alone.
There was some problem with the outdoor gypsum. For example, Byggmax no longer sells outdoor gypsum due to some construction-related problem that I can't quite recall. Risk of mold?
Because you will not be putting filler and sanding the joint on the outdoor gypsum.Anders_Nilsson said:
Keep in mind that outdoor plaster comes in different variations that differ in impregnation and can remain "unprotected" for a longer period. I would go with asfaboard if you are going to add insulation, I've heard it corresponds to approximately 25-30mm mineral wool in insulating capability.
You never described how you envisioned your wall. Usually, you put outdoor gypsum on the standing studs, outside you lay a 45x45 horizontal with wind barrier fabric and nail battens. I would have only used asfaboard if the 45x45 had been skipped, i.e., it replaces both gypsum and paper. Gypsum stiffens the wall significantly, and it is recommended.
Not if it is the final layer, but if you add 45x45 on the outside, then you use wind barrier.FredrikR said:
On the house and the small shed, I used wind barrier (T-vind), for the garage I used asfaboard.
I nailed the asfaboard with about 15 roofing nails per sheet (some long version from Biltema), then I shot long narrow-backed staples with a staple gun, about every 10 cm.
Fast and cheap.
The reason I didn't use staples all the way was mostly because I didn't have sufficiently long staples when the sheets were going up. But it still feels good to have a dozen large roofing nail heads helping to hold the sheet. 😊
Asfaboard, but mainly external gypsum, braces well, but for single-story houses, the internal gypsum is probably sufficient as a bracing element.
At the same time, it's nice that the whole house is braced from the outside (with the help of external gypsum) so you can remove all the diagonal braces inside and work freely.
My asfaboard stayed up all winter without a protective panel. It went well, but it warped and bent a little, but nothing I needed to address.
If external gypsum is going to be exposed for a while, it's probably necessary to tape the seams. If moisture gets into the (unwaxed) short seams, the external gypsum is likely to deteriorate very quickly.
I nailed the asfaboard with about 15 roofing nails per sheet (some long version from Biltema), then I shot long narrow-backed staples with a staple gun, about every 10 cm.
Fast and cheap.
The reason I didn't use staples all the way was mostly because I didn't have sufficiently long staples when the sheets were going up. But it still feels good to have a dozen large roofing nail heads helping to hold the sheet. 😊
Asfaboard, but mainly external gypsum, braces well, but for single-story houses, the internal gypsum is probably sufficient as a bracing element.
At the same time, it's nice that the whole house is braced from the outside (with the help of external gypsum) so you can remove all the diagonal braces inside and work freely.
My asfaboard stayed up all winter without a protective panel. It went well, but it warped and bent a little, but nothing I needed to address.
If external gypsum is going to be exposed for a while, it's probably necessary to tape the seams. If moisture gets into the (unwaxed) short seams, the external gypsum is likely to deteriorate very quickly.