anyone got a picture of modern cornice together with corner blocks?

[Yrrol]

Two carpenters (+the girl) have now talked about how corner blocks would make things easier and look better with the crown moulding. This I might have agreed with if we had old-style crown moulding, but I have a hard time imagining it would look good with regular discreet moulding.

I was thinking of quarter circle shaped like a ( symbol... Does anyone have this and can share a picture?

I don't know, it just doesn't feel right at all. It can't be that hard to saw without the moulding cracking - I mean so you can avoid corner blocks...

It's closed now, so I can't buy wood and experiment...

 

[Larsa]

Are you referring to a cove molding?

It's no trouble to install without the corners cracking. The wood should just be dry, and I personally think the best solution is to make coping joints in the corners (meaning not mitering them together).

I'm not sure how it looks with corner blocks, but with these, it might look cool.

 

[Yrrol]

Yes, that list, between the size of three...

Such a corner block with a matching figure might be relevant in that case, but the local stores probably won't have it...

 

[Amatörbyggaren]

A few years ago when I was working on two rooms, I also considered corner blocks and asked "my cabinetmaker" (a very skilled and helpful professional) what he thought. He said -- it looks "jåligt" with blocks, so I went with the miter saw. The risk of cracks is only if you're careless and nail too close to the end, then there's a greater risk of cracking the blocks if you don't pre-drill properly. The challenge for me was to position the crown molding correctly in the miter saw (hand-driven), but with some practice on a few short pieces, that worked out too.

 

[Milkshaken]

A few years ago when I was doing two rooms, I also considered corner blocks and asked "my court carpenter" (a very skilled and helpful professional) what he thought. He thought that -- it looks "jåligt" with blocks, so I opted for the mitre saw. The risk of cracking is only if you are careless and nail too close to the end; then there is probably a greater risk of splitting the blocks if you do not pre-drill properly. The challenge for me was to position the ceiling molding correctly in the mitre saw (hand-driven), with a bit of practice on some short pieces, it also worked

if you want to do it really nicely and correctly, it should be done with just one mitred strip.... and the other straight.
Then you carve the mitred strip paper-thin on the back, usually it becomes better and easier to get it right that way, since a ceiling angle is not always exact ....

 

[Amatörbyggaren]

Thanks for that tip Milkshaken. Unfortunately, it comes a few years too late, but I will keep it in mind for next time. As an amateur, you can't always know the shortcuts, thanks anyway.

 

[byggare henke]

standard for us educated builders. ;-)

 

[Larsa]

There are a couple of threads about using counter-profile when joining moldings, I always use it. It's a bit fiddly, but it looks nice.

http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40654-girning-av-lister.html

 

[prototypen]

It's clear that there is some tinkering with the kontraprofil, but the body should be tormented, picture from my office. The screws are not yet painted over. The next project will probably be hörnklossar.

Protte